A
aosmith
Guest
on intake manifold side not air box.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
E
ErnieGS1100EZ
Guest
Use dish washing liquid on the rubber. It makes the carbs or anything else slide in alot easier.
A
aosmith
Guest
shouldn't i be worried about that getting sucked into the intake manifold? its inches and down a slope
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
IF you grease them Use ONLY silicon grease. Conventional grease will deform the rubber. If it is that hard to get them in ? Have you considered replacing the boots ?. Use some silicon spray lube, & a 2x2 for leverage
M
MelodicMetalGod
Guest
I've seen WD-40 recommended for this task many times in this forum.
L
LeeGS550E
Guest
I had to get a rack of BS carbs back in the other night...a bit harder than the two carb setups, it seems. I ended up using a couple of slider wood clamps. Was able to put one end of the clamp on outside lip of outside carb, and the other end of the clamp on the 'valley' portion of the head where the outside spark plug goes. Opposite side I put a clamp in the same spot. Tightened 'em down progressively, and the carbs slipped right in. I use simple green as a lube. When trying to push them in by hand, I found that I'd push one side in, and it would pull out when I went to push the other side in. The clamps prevented that from happening.
T
tconroy
Guest
You just tilt the carbs forward and work them slowly over the bootsthen just push back on the carbs and down to get them in there.If you take your time it will fall right into place.Once you do it correctly it is easy.
RacingJake
Forum Sage
A little wheel bearing grease and a hair dryer worked for me when I was stuffing some over size carbs on.
S
Schweisshund
Guest
KY Jelly :-D:-D:-D
G
Guest
Guest
Yup. And paint the lip and the inside of the boots pink... they'll fall right in! 8-[
K
Killer2600
Guest
A little foreplay will get the boots all wet and it'll slide right in without KY \\
/
When doing it with cold parts, and cold hands, it is doubly difficult to do.
Silicone spray is definitely the best lubricant to us , but it does not guarantee an easy job. I spray the boots and the carb edges.
I tried the wood clamp trick, but the clamps kept shifting, and then falling away.
I tried a variety of ways, but finally decided on a piece of 1 x 3 held firmly across the carb faces and a 2 1/2 pound club hammer.
With the carbs positioned correctly, and pressed firmly against the boots, a couple of persuasions at each end is all it takes. (It helps if you are familiar with using this type of hammer....I have done a lot of stone work)
No. I am not kidding.
No, there not been any trace of damage
Silicone spray is definitely the best lubricant to us , but it does not guarantee an easy job. I spray the boots and the carb edges.
I tried the wood clamp trick, but the clamps kept shifting, and then falling away.
I tried a variety of ways, but finally decided on a piece of 1 x 3 held firmly across the carb faces and a 2 1/2 pound club hammer.
With the carbs positioned correctly, and pressed firmly against the boots, a couple of persuasions at each end is all it takes. (It helps if you are familiar with using this type of hammer....I have done a lot of stone work)
No. I am not kidding.
No, there not been any trace of damage
G
Guest
Guest
Fvck the airbox. Get pods. :-D\\/
/
B
bimmerboy750
Guest
How about Hylomar? It's available at Advance Auto. My old BMW manual called for it on many engine gasket part assemblies (water pump, valve cover, etc.). It's a non-curing gasketing material that is basically always greasy and has some sealing properties (that could maybe help with some tiny vacuum issues). I haven't tried it for carb boots yet, but the thought had crossed my mind.
Rick
81 GS550TX
Rick
81 GS550TX
