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ANOTHER R/R THAT WILL WORK

Tv said:
hey duaneage
You say 'The RR diodes are measured in ohms not volts as the pages state.' I have a cheap digital MM and set Ohms to 200k. With the Black probe on the red RR wire I get 36.x reading when I touch the red probe on the yellow wires. I get zip when I reverse the probes and perform the same test. Alternatively I get approx the same reading with the red probe on the earth wire and the black on the yellow wires. Am I doing this right?
I just wanna make sure I can test the Honda replacement before I install it on the bike. My battery is boiling and I'm assuming its the RR.
REgards
Tv
The diodes are measured with a VOM on the 1K, or 1000 ohm scale. Better VOMs have a special diode range that does not send a large amout of current through sensitive diodes. The RR uses a Germanium type rectifier diode which averages out at 500-600 ohms. Silicon Diodes typically go at 600-800 ohms. In reverse the "semiconductor" effect is to read very high, almost infinate ohms. There are 6 doides so six reading must be taken.

Between the Red and each yellow lead = 3 measurements
Between the ground and each yellow lead = 3 measurements

Measure Red to black and see if there isa short, should see arounda few hundred ohms if the REGulator portion is not shorted or having other issues. the regulator is a more complicated device with transistors and a Zener diode as well as a SCR in the mix, probably a bit complicated to describe here how that all works and besides it does not matter as long as it is not shorted out. If the readings betwen red and black are VERY VERY high the RR may overcharge the battery and cause it to boil. the regulator stifles the output to within a range of 13-15 volts.

The sense wire on the honda is a great addition since it controls the transistors allowing them to cycle the battery charge instead of just feeding it all the time.

I took pics of my bike voltmeter, I will post tonight. I wll also show the tie in to the bike in the headlight bucket
 
Thanks for your help. I have a Diode Testing mode on my MM and when I check all the readings they are similar in value but the value between Gnd and Red is double that of the other values which may indicate a problem with the Regulator. I'm going down the Shindengen path and I'm going to order one of those 'gadgets' They look cool
Once again, thanks for the help
REgards
Tv
 
SHIN.... R/R

SHIN.... R/R

I have an 81 gs750l & have a shin.... R/R off my spare frame from my 86 Kawi gpz 650. It has the 3 yellow stator wires & the brown ref. wire. The other two wires are not red & black. They are yellow with black pinstripe & white. I am assuming the black pinstripe means its ground & the white is the positive. Is this correct ???
 
$$$

$$$

Any one have LIST of the Regulators that fit or WORK on GS's? :) Are nay cheaper replacements than ours?
 
LL750 what's the shindengen # off your regulator ?

Shortlid I believe Duaneage is trying to do something like that and with some help from others maybe that list will come...
 
I am going to try and get a list from SDG that shows what they made and what it was used on. I should be able to determine what will work once I have a list.

This is for my Honda Reg Mod pictorial project, of shich I have two regulators on the way to me from eBay
 
How about this one? I have it on my bike

http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=

Installation instructions here

http://www.bbburma.net/HowTo/TimeVoltageTempGauge_Install/

Is the GS resources really a resource or what! I used a 3 conductor stereo headphone jack for the wire to remove it when needed and to prevent battery drain over the winter. It lights up so you can see it at night (thank God) and it beeps when the voltage goes below 11 volts, like when sitting at a red light for 5 minutes, reminding me to turn off my headlight to save juice. I did not use the remote temperature sendor, the built in one is good enough. IF you want a picture of my quick disconnect let me know.

I made a mounting bracket that goes in the center where the handlebars attached and used the velcro to mount it with. Looks great.

Are you saying that this device is on all the time?
 
Are you saying that this device is on all the time?
Yes, the display is on all the time. No worries about it draining the battery, though. Look at your digital watch and then take a look at its battery and how long it lasts. Compare that with the size of your bike's battery. You think it will be a problem? Although the display is on all the time, the lights are not. There are three wires to be hooked up. (Constant) power and ground are obvious, the third is connected to a switched power wire, it will power the backlight and the red/yellow/green indicators to show voltage range. We have one on my wife's 850L, I have installed one on my sister's Honda Pacific Coast and several other bikes, with no problems.

One other nice feature that is not talked about with this gauge is the fact that you can calibrate the voltmeter. I have checked all the ones I have installed, they were all within a few tenths of correct, but I have a Fluke meter that is calibrated annually to NIST standards, so why not check them?

Having the display ON all the time is nice. You can walk by the bike in the garage and see instantly whether you need to connect the Battery Tender (for off-season times only, of course). While riding, it is nice to be able to see your voltage at a glance, but also see the time of day and temperature, without pushing any buttons.

The only real drawback is the fact that it is NOT waterproof. I have enhanced its water-resistance properties by spraying a few coats of clear polyurethane over it, concentrating on the edge of the display, where water can run in to the circuit board. Still not ideal, but the one on my wife's bike lives a sheltered life under a shelf that mounts her GPS and XM radio.

.
 
Yes, the display is on all the time. No worries about it draining the battery, though. Look at your digital watch and then take a look at its battery and how long it lasts. Compare that with the size of your bike's battery. You think it will be a problem? Although the display is on all the time, the lights are not. There are three wires to be hooked up. (Constant) power and ground are obvious, the third is connected to a switched power wire, it will power the backlight and the red/yellow/green indicators to show voltage range. We have one on my wife's 850L, I have installed one on my sister's Honda Pacific Coast and several other bikes, with no problems.

One other nice feature that is not talked about with this gauge is the fact that you can calibrate the voltmeter. I have checked all the ones I have installed, they were all within a few tenths of correct, but I have a Fluke meter that is calibrated annually to NIST standards, so why not check them?

Having the display ON all the time is nice. You can walk by the bike in the garage and see instantly whether you need to connect the Battery Tender (for off-season times only, of course). While riding, it is nice to be able to see your voltage at a glance, but also see the time of day and temperature, without pushing any buttons.

The only real drawback is the fact that it is NOT waterproof. I have enhanced its water-resistance properties by spraying a few coats of clear polyurethane over it, concentrating on the edge of the display, where water can run in to the circuit board. Still not ideal, but the one on my wife's bike lives a sheltered life under a shelf that mounts her GPS and XM radio.

.

Thanks for all the info. I'll be ordering one of these soon. I have the Kuryakyn voltmeter which is also not waterproof. It should be classified as a piece of expensive junk. The SM LEDs are mounted crooked and not in line. Poor quality.
 
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