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Fuse and Electrical

  • Thread starter Thread starter bobiii84
  • Start date Start date
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bobiii84

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So there I was minding my own business when my bike up and dies on me .5 miles from home :( I checked the fuses. This is on my 1980 GS550L btw. The top fuse wasn't blown, but has slid partially out to the right due to there being no fuse cover :/ The bottom fuse was toast though. I immediately smelled and smell burnt electrical that seems to be coming from the ignition switch for the key. The left blinkers do not work. I replaced all the fuses and no change. The bike will start and seems to be charging right but it will not stay running. I thought fuses were supposed to prevent these issues, not cause them. Please help!
 
Fuses didn't cause that problem, lack of maintenance did, along with running without a fuse cover, which likely invited added corrosion. Why did you do that?
 
I bought it without a cover and kept it stored in a garage until recently. I've been meaning to get the cover for it but time has been an issue with my new baby. I also wasn't really asking for criticism, I know what I did wrong. I was actually hoping for some tips on how to fix it. Oh and corrosion isn't the issue, I went through all that. It was the fuses. Thanks.
 
If the issue is the fuses like you say, simply replacing them with new will solve the problem.
 
Like I said the fuses are what caused the issue to start with. The cover not being there was the culprit. That part is understood. Now the issue is fixing the problem, which is the whole purpose of my post in the first place.
 
I'd start by looking for pinched wires and worn insulation. If it was bad enough to give off a burning smell, some dark or crispy insulation should be there to show you the right path.

If you can make the time, also clean up oxidation / corrosion from switches and all connectors, including those inside the headlight bucket. I've had pretty good results using CRC electronic cleaner and a little dielectric grease (use a toothpick to apply) afterward on the connectors. Silicone spray worked great on the switches. Have you used the "Stator Papers" to check the stator & reg?

I constantly chased electrical gremlins on my 750 until I blocked out some time and went over all the wiring. It's a really simple system once you get in there. Knock wood, no problems since.

BTW, congrats on the new baby!
 
Like I said the fuses are what caused the issue to start with. The cover not being there was the culprit. That part is understood. Now the issue is fixing the problem, which is the whole purpose of my post in the first place.

Corrosion almost certainly caused the problem, greatly accelerated by the missing fuse block cover. The fuses are not to blame, other than there was likely corrosion on the fuse holder terminals. Corrosion creates resistance, which increases current, which fries wires. Before putting an old bike on the road it pays to look for things like corroded terminals before something like this happens.

You have no choice but to remove the gas tank, and to start tracing wires, looking for evidence of burning. GS wiring harness's are easy enough to replace, although time consuming, so no biggie.
 
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Hi,

Have you taken the ignition switch out to have a look? Corrosion at the ignition switch connections create extra resistance and heat, enough to melt insulation and cause shorts. Check all the connections in the headlight bucket and under the gas tank. Check and clean every connection you can find on the entire wiring harness. Keep us informed.

EDIT: Oops, I see Mr. Nessism has a quicker keyboard than I. He really knows his stuff. I'd take criticism from him any day. I like to keep my bike running well. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I understand, and you're both correct. I have not had a good day and wasn't really up for criticism earlier :/ The only thing I didn't make very clear is the upper fuse was almost completely wriggled out of the holder it was in. The holder seems to be a tad loose and it would have been touching only on and off. That's why I assumed it was the cause. I will take a picture of how it looked tommorow when I have more time. It's just frustrating since I recently replaced the stator and r/r and I would hate to have fried either of them on something so minor. Anyone have a fuse box I can buy? :) I really do appreciate the advice, even if I'm a bit frustrated.

Edit: To add to what is wrong with it, the headlamp appears to be blown but I am getting voltage to the connector at least. I'm going to start it tommorow and see if the burning smell comes back. Then I'll pull out the switch and take a look at it. I think it's supposed to rain. Figures! Haha
 
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Hi,

One popular electrical upgrade is to replace the stock fuse box with a blade type unit. http://wwwEasternbeaver.com is one place to get such upgrade parts. This is one upgrade I plan to perform on my bike. The blade type fuses are much better than the glass type.

The Power Center 8 is probably overkill for most of our bikes.

top-open.jpg


But I'm sure you can find other, more modest (and cheaper) solutions perhaps at http://www.fuzeblocks.com/, http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/pplate.htm, or your local auto parts store.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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I had problems with the glass fuse holder on my bike (went through the original and then the one off my parts bike), replaced it with a blade type holder. I like the one BassCliff pictured though, so I'll probably replace it again with that one. Also, make sure your fuses are of the right value. All should be 10amp except ignition and main, they should be 15 amp.
 
Pretty sure I have a nice clean fuseblock w/cover but need to check later. How about posting a photo of the one you have so we can compare? The one I have is missing the back plate, but you can take the one off yours and move it over to this one.
 
This was taken in a hurry cause I haven't had a lot of time. I will take it apart this weekend provided I have the time.

IMG_0224.jpg


The top fuse holder does seem to have a little play in it. I'll take a picture of how it looked when the problem occurred soon as well.
bobiii84
 
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Hi,

I documented my fusebox cleanup. You'll find a guide with pictures on my website. Take a look and see if it will help you. I recommend Mr. posplayr's "GS Charging System Health" guide too.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
I'm not certain that I agree that the fuses are the issue. Fuses are a safety mechanism placed there to prevent fires and such when the current draw is too high. While I would also go to blade fuses, I would try to find out what is drawing all the extra current. I am not certain why corrosion in the fuse box would increase current draw through the fuses themselves.
 
So if I wanted to just re-wire the bike this winter when I get time, is there a kit for it out there?
 
Hi,

Sorry, no re-wire kit. If you're patient and meticulous, it's possible to recreate one using the original as a template.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Managed to clear out the shed so I have a place to work on the bike finally. I turned the key on and found that electrical burning smell coming from the ignition switch again :/ I imagine that will need to be replaced. I think I'm going to redo all the wiring and replace the current fuse box as well. What is your opinion on the ignition switch? So far, none of the wiring looks burnt or bad so I need to go through the rest of it. It will run but has to have the throttle on to stay running, could this be due to a short in the ignition switch? And any clue why the left blinkers don't work but the right ones do? Can that be due to the signal relay? Thanks!

I am also looking at www.wiringproducts.com for the wire that I will use, but they don't have the color variation I need. Do any of you know where I can buy spools of matching wire for my bike?

BassCliff, would you mind posting a picture of your retro-fitted fusebox so I can get an idea how to mount a different one? Thanks!
 
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Found the fusebox. Decently clean and with cover on front. The back plate is missing though so you would have to switch it with the one you have. I'll sell it for the cost of shipping so drop me a PM if you want to discuss.
 
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