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Search results

  1. K

    79 GS550 No Spark Electric Conundrum

    Ok, I'm confused. Your update said you have 12.6 volts at the switch (kill switch I assume) which comes after all fuses so why do you need to check voltage at the fuse? Further research shows that the GS550's only had a single 15A fuse that would keep battery power from getting anywhere else in...
  2. K

    79 GS550 No Spark Electric Conundrum

    You have 12.6ish volts AT the kill switch? Please explain "check volts to ground directly off it" and how it's supposed to be different than your 12.6 volts. ELI5 and teach us how you "check volts to ground"
  3. K

    Well...

    Good to hear. I didn't see it in your video but be sure to put a fuse between pin 30 of the relay and your positive connection on the starter solenoid.
  4. K

    Starting problem

    If the starter doesn't unintentionally run with the starter button disconnected then the problem is with your assembly of the button. Improper assembly can have the starter activated all the time.
  5. K

    Well...

    They ALWAYS come back. You're not going to get zero loss on the negative side with a transistorized ignition. If the dyna's ground has very low loss AND the coil negative AT the coil and AT the dyna have the same (or very close to the same) loss then there is nothing for you to fix - the loss...
  6. K

    Well...

    He's doing voltage drop testing, so the desired reading is 0v with key on and killswitch on. Essentially, the video shows he's got no power to his new coil wires but a connection exists between them and ground - likely through the dyna s ignition via the power wire to the dyna and hitting ground...
  7. K

    Well...

    When you turn the killswitch to the run/on position do you hear the relay click? If not check that you are getting 12v on pin 86 of the relay when you turn the killswitch on. If you aren't, presuming you don't have a blown fuse or other loss of power, the relay isn't connected to the killswitch...
  8. K

    SH775 Install Diagram

    Yes, this test has to be done with the bike running/charging.
  9. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    To answer that, one has to ask which do you do more? Idle the bike (run low rpms) or ride the bike (run mid to high rpms)? If your answer is you idle the bike more then get the fire mark as good as you can get it. If you like to ride the bike and like to wring out performance then proper full...
  10. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    Indeed, video can be real helpful for explanations. Your timing is as good as your going to get it, job well done. What you were seeing when rotating the rotor back and forth while you were between the full advance and "F" mark was the rotor triggering the ignition at varying degrees of...
  11. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    You'll have to clarify. When the crank is rotating clockwise, the test light comes on at the full advance mark (when the rotor is held fully advanced), goes off some degrees later, and comes back on again before coming back around to the full advance mark (again the rotor is held fully...
  12. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    Correct...So long as the correct coil is going to the correct plugs all is good.
  13. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is...
  14. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    How long your test light stays on is irrelevant. What you are trying to accomplish is having the light come on at the exact moment the timing mark lines up when rotating the engine in it's normal direction of rotation (clockwise). The light shouldn't come on any earlier (before the mark) or...
  15. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    For this reason, you don't want to leave the ignition ON when the bike isn't running. Power is continuously flowing while the coil is charging, the only time power isn't flowing is when the ignition/ignitor/points breaks the ground side in order to spark/discharge the coil.
  16. K

    Ignition relay.

    Don't, it's not necessary and adding a diode in the circuit will introduce a 0.7v or higher voltage drop to the coils.
  17. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    That's normal and expected, the coils fire 180? apart. If the spark is strong, sounds like you have a working system.
  18. K

    New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

    Are both coils connected to properly installed spark plugs? That could be a reason for sparks in unexpected places. The fluctuations in your lights is expected. When the coil is charging it's drawing power from the battery which pulls voltage down. When it stops and a spark occurs (the coil...
  19. K

    Vacuum fuel tap petcock

    I didn't buy one from there but I bought one of the OEM looking ones at newmotorcycleparts.net. I haven't used it yet but it looks and feels good. The one I was sent was made in Japan by Tourmax (www.tourmax.jp).
  20. K

    Left hand control (directional / beam / horn) exploded view.

    What bike is this from? '85 GS1150? I wish I could source the internals, I could use the horn button and bits.
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