GS750 Mystery Continues-Charging Sys Tests

[Speedo]

Concluding my last post, several folks - all of whom were extremely helpful so BIG THANKS YOU GUYS ROCK - including BassCliff told me read the Stator Papers and test my charging system. Prev thread below where bike drained battery and ran like crap and apparently "healed" itself.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=149226&highlight=runs+crap

However, noone really has answered the question: can a drained battery alone cause the bike to run terrible (w/ Dyna S, etc)??

Anyway, so I read all the Stator papers, checked out BassCliff's stator test and stator replacement, all of which were excellent (I esp like both the chart in SP4 and BassCliff's pictures which help a lot - including his toes). Also looked at Honda RR wiring diagram as my bike has this mod although I did not do it myself so no idea if done correctly/correct part.

Main point after all this reading/testing: this is by no means easy stuff.

I did try a forum search for "due diligence" to hopefully not waste anyone's time, including seeing Matchless's stuff on R/R compatibility and one recent post where it turned out a guy only had a kinked wire (lucky him). So if it's already out there, I apologize in advance and point the rookie idiot in the right direction/right old posts

Going Off Stator Papers IV (Quite Outstanding) Fault Chart:
Test
A1 Overall. 12.4v @ 2500. Not good (less than 13.5). Same at 5000rpm, also not good.
A2 RR red/pos. .14....good (less than .2v)
A3 RR black/neg. No black wire but green ground wire to frame. .06 good (less than .2v)

B1 Ohms resist BTWN 3 stator wires. CRAZY readings. Uh oh, bad stator?
Well, wait, the stock connector sleaves are burnt black and connectors look like sh, uh, not good. Snip all 3 to bare wires, reconduct test:
1.4 / 1.2 / 1.3 all good (below 2v). Hurray, only bad connectors? WRONG. Still 12.4 on test A1, so I continue...

[Speedo]

Part Deux

[sorry, hit enter by mistake]

Test
B2 3 stator wires vs ground. OL / OL / OL good. (all infinity)
B3 BTWN 3 stator wires, AC volts, engine running. 83-89/85/85 good (pretty even and all over 60, but it the readings were not "rock solid" and fluctuated occasionally - don't know if that matters; if so, how else to test?)

C1 RR +pos vs 3 leads to stator wires Diode test. No readings at all. OL b4 hookup, OL after hookup. So "good" is supposed to be 1.5v or higher. Is "infinity" higher? If so good. If not bad. Need help on this one

C2 RR +pos vs 3 leads to stator wires Diode test REVERSING meter leads. .508/.515 /.515 good (all apx .5)

C3 RR -neg vs 3 leads to stator wires Diode test. Again, No readings at all. OL b4 hookup, OL after hookup. So "good" is supposed to be 1.5v or higher. Is "infinity" higher? If so good. If not bad. Also Need help on this one

C4 RR -neg vs 3 leads to stator wires Diode test REVERSING meter leads. .508/.508 /.512 good (all apx .5)
[note: I think there is a typo in C4 where "black multimeter lead" should read "RED multimeter lead"]

Battery is almost brand new. Less than 2 months old. I do not think it's battery (but maybe bad charging sys killed it in less than 100miles? possible? dunno)

Also noticed that Honda RR hookup was slightly different than diagram off BassCliff's site in that one of the 3 yellows from RR was NOT hooked directly to one of the stator wires (the WHITE/GREEN one), but rather to a RED/WHITE stock one right next to WHITE/GREEN, which is still connect to WHITE GREEN from stator. So maybe that's the fuse box loop?


Summary: Still 12.4 overall with all new connectors, etc. Where did I go wrong / what else can I check? Ahhhhhhhh.




C3

[lucabond]

You want to connect that 3rd yellow wire directly to the stator. When the bike were made before the headlight on at all times they were on a switch which would connect the 3rd leg of the stator the the RR. After the rule change they just jumped that wire at a connector block to have the 3rd leg connected at all times. So what happens is due to time the connections become bad making poor contact and its like you only using 2 phases of the stator instead of all 3. That is why we now connect the 3 wires directly from the stator to the RR. Make the change and then check your charging voltage again and see if that makes any differance. Good luck

[Speedo]

reposted under "stator paper caper: shunted & stumped" in hopes of better viewing, response and help.

never underestimate the power of a catchy title (or catchy song hook-e.g. "DayTripper", "I can't Get no Satisfaction"). A fact I should not have ignored....

[Steve]

reposted ....

Yeah, but when you post the same problem in more than one thread, responders will get confused and possibly ignore both threads.

.

[Nessism]

If your stator is putting out 85 volts on each leg and your battery is good, the R/R is the problem (or the wiring). To confirm, I suggest you run your stator wires direct into the R/R, bypassing the factory harness. For your R/R outputs, run the Pos direct to the battery with a 15A fuse in line and run the neg output direct to the battery. You can experiment by using small jumper wires if you don't want to start cutting wires just yet. Please give this a try and report back.