Shimming the needles

[Guest]

I recently FINALLY got all my last parts in the mail, K&N Pods to replace my ERGOs and #135 main jets. I can't figure out how to shim the needles with the washers from radioshack or where they will go. I looked inside the diaphram and it looks like theirs a small C clip?

Pictures if anyone has any would be a great help.

[Nessism]

Did you try to search out the answer? This topic is well documented in the archives.

Hint: remove plastic spacer on top of clip and replace with shorter stack of washers.

[Ranger]

Did you try to search out the answer? This topic is well documented in the archives.

Hint: remove plastic spacer on top of clip and replace with shorter stack of washers.

I did but thats the problem I'm having is removing it and how to stack the washers being able to use the same clip?

[Steve]

Repeating what is certainly in the archives:

Remove the needle from the slide, noting the order of the parts removed.
- remove the large c-clip and remove the long plastic plug-thingy from the middle of the slide
- gently push the needle up from the bottom. You should see a thick nylon spacer at the top of the needle, riding on the top of the circlip on the needle
- under that circlip should be a thin metal washer and a spring
- use your smallest Radio Shack washers to approximate the thickness of that nylon spacer, count the washers in the stack
- cut that amount in half, use them INSTEAD OF THE NYLON SPACER
- reassemble the slide, install in carb
- vacuum sync the carbs

.

[koolaid_kid]

Repeating what is certainly in the archives:

Remove the needle from the slide, noting the order of the parts removed.
- remove the large c-clip and remove the long plastic plug-thingy from the middle of the slide
- gently push the needle up from the bottom. You should see a thick nylon spacer at the top of the needle, riding on the top of the circlip on the needle
- under that circlip should be a thin metal washer and a spring
- use your smallest Radio Shack washers to approximate the thickness of that nylon spacer, count the washers in the stack
- cut that amount in half, use them INSTEAD OF THE NYLON SPACER
- reassemble the slide, install in carb
- vacuum sync the carbs

.

That is what I had the problem with. You need a really long skinny pair of needle nose pliers to get the c-clip out. You will probably have to buy or borrow the correct tool. Once it is out, it is a piece of cake.
I also went to my local Ace Hardware Store and picked up some 3mm washers, which are a perfect fit because they are metric, as is the needle. About the same price, and I don't have a bag of tiny SAE washers laying around that I will never find a use for.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

No pictures, but here's a little more info:

Shimming The Needle

You'll be working in this area:



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[7981GS]

kool aid, thanks for that tip!
I will have to go shopping today.

Daniel

[Ranger]

Well I'm trying to figure out just how lean its going to run, I thought the 700s ran lean from the factory in the first place? I cant see raising the needle too much with 135s but I guess I'll have a trial and error..

[twr1776]

Sears has a set of needlenose that work pretty well and the paint & hardware location stocks them by me. They might even be open at 5 AM Friday for your shopping pleasure.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00945661000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

[Ranger]

I got it all done, damn thing still refuses to start. Taking it to the shop Saturday now that its all assembled.

[7981GS]

Thanks to Mr. Koolaid Kid...
I went shopping! Really.
So, anyone that needs some 3 mm flat washers, just send me a PM
and for the cost of a stamp and envelope (.50), can get 12 of them from me.

Daniel

[Road_Clam]

Not to hijack, but I am wondering why you would "replace" the nylon spacer with a comprable "stack" of 3mm washers. Typically it's understood the midrange needs to be richened with the addition of a pipe and or pod filters. Why not just add the necessary number of shims under the nylon spacer ? I guess if one wanted the ability to further lean the OEM stock needle then I could see the point..

[Steve]

Not to hijack, but I am wondering why you would "replace" the nylon spacer with a comprable "stack" of 3mm washers. Typically it's understood the midrange needs to be richened with the addition of a pipe and or pod filters. Why not just add the necessary number of shims under the nylon spacer ? I guess if one wanted the ability to further lean the OEM stock needle then I could see the point..

That's because the needle is pushed UP by the spring below the circlip. The nylon spacer determines the position. By adding shims under the nylon spacer, you will actually be pushing the needle DOWN, due to the additional thickness. The idea is to RAISE the needle, so you need less thickness. The stack of thinner washers allows you the flexibility of being able to adjust how far it is raised. If you leave the nylon spacer in place and simply add the washers below the clip, all you will do is add preload to the spring.

.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well I'm trying to figure out just how lean its going to run, I thought the 700s ran lean from the factory in the first place? I cant see raising the needle too much with 135s but I guess I'll have a trial and error..

Are you richening the jet needle to allow for pods only? Stock exhaust?
I'm guessing approx' .050 to .075" range (higher positioned needle)? 700 guys correct me if I'm wrong.
And remember that the jet needle and main jet supply fuel at different throttle positions. So don't think of them as a unit as your sentence suggests.