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bakirkwold
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koolaid_kid
Here's the deal. If you don't paint it with their special paint every year, it will absorb moisture. The moisture will cause the pipe to rust. So you have to watch the coating and make sure it stays sound. Even so, it will eventually rust out, but it takes a long while, depending how much you ride in the rain.
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Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostHere's the deal. If you don't paint it with their special paint every year, it will absorb moisture. The moisture will cause the pipe to rust. So you have to watch the coating and make sure it stays sound. Even so, it will eventually rust out, but it takes a long while, depending how much you ride in the rain.1978 GS1085.
Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!
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bakirkwold
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koolaid_kid
Originally posted by elevatorman71 View Postignore the people with closed minds. lol its all about what you like not anyone else.
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Originally posted by Jedz123 View Post
Hear ceramic coating is the best thing you can do for heat shielding. It keeps the exhaust headers cooler and in doing so gives you an increase in power. I just want to do it for that 1200 produces enough heat already and it would be nice not to burn my hand off when I take off the oil filter. Aparently you can go for a spirited run, pull over and within minutes touch the exhaust header without burning your hand. Sure would be useful in those breakdown situations...'82 GS1100E
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verde
I like wrap in the right setting. That being said, I've only wrapped 1 of 5 bikes and I had to do it twice to get it right.
I do think it is dumb if:
-you are doing it for performance gains... maybe on a car with a hot engine bay or a drag bike with no silencer this argument could have some merit, but any effect it has in our situations is negligible.
-street parked bike. This is where water retention is bad. Otherwise, any moisture cooks off right away and it's nothing to worry about with a garaged bike.
I love it because:
-It looks right if employed correctly.
-I don't burn myself on the headers anymore.
Tips on install:
-Unroll the entire roll and find the center point then cut it. Sucks to almost be done on the second pipe and find out you used more than half of the roll on the first pipe(this was on a twin, depending on how much pipe you're doing and how big the rolls are, 1/4th's or 2 rolls may be required)
-Tie or bind the ends to keep them from unraveling during install(I finally found a use for those uselessly tiny zip ties that come in the multipack).
-Rinse the pieces of wrap in a bucket with hot water about a half dozen times or more 'til the rinse water runs clean. This get rid of the factory grim and the wrap will "cure" and stop smelling funny much much sooner. Getting rid of that grime also keeps the wrap from changing funny colors.
-Much easier if the pipes are off. If not, make sure the bike is supper clean so you don't gum up the wrap as you put it on.
-Put it on soaking wet, straight from the bucket. Once you get it started and clamped in place, you can get it on there nice and tight.
-I like stainless steel pipe clamps, not sure how the skinny wire ties the wrap manufactures sell are, but I'm sure they do the job too.
-Wear big rubber gloves if you don't want fiberglass itch.
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240punk
Originally posted by verde View PostI like wrap in the right setting. That being said, I've only wrapped 1 of 5 bikes and I had to do it twice to get it right.
I do think it is dumb if:
-you are doing it for performance gains... maybe on a car with a hot engine bay or a drag bike with no silencer this argument could have some merit, but any effect it has in our situations is negligible.
-street parked bike. This is where water retention is bad. Otherwise, any moisture cooks off right away and it's nothing to worry about with a garaged bike.
I love it because:
-It looks right if employed correctly.
-I don't burn myself on the headers anymore.
Tips on install:
-Unroll the entire roll and find the center point then cut it. Sucks to almost be done on the second pipe and find out you used more than half of the roll on the first pipe(this was on a twin, depending on how much pipe you're doing and how big the rolls are, 1/4th's or 2 rolls may be required)
-Tie or bind the ends to keep them from unraveling during install(I finally found a use for those uselessly tiny zip ties that come in the multipack).
-Rinse the pieces of wrap in a bucket with hot water about a half dozen times or more 'til the rinse water runs clean. This get rid of the factory grim and the wrap will "cure" and stop smelling funny much much sooner. Getting rid of that grime also keeps the wrap from changing funny colors.
-Much easier if the pipes are off. If not, make sure the bike is supper clean so you don't gum up the wrap as you put it on.
-Put it on soaking wet, straight from the bucket. Once you get it started and clamped in place, you can get it on there nice and tight.
-I like stainless steel pipe clamps, not sure how the skinny wire ties the wrap manufactures sell are, but I'm sure they do the job too.
-Wear big rubber gloves if you don't want fiberglass itch.
^^^^ All that +1
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bakirkwold
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verde
I didn't. It'd be interesting to hear from someone who has though. I wonder if the wrap is a little more robust that way, i.e. less prone to fraying if it does get scuffed? I imagine running around for a week to cure the wrap before painting it would be the route to go, but that's another round of header gaskets.
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gearheadE30
When I did the turbo manifold on my car, I used header wrap and spray. The theory is that keeping the heat in the manifold prevents losses that would slow down the airstream. It's held up pretty well so far, and because it's in a car and unlikely to see too much water, I wasn't too worried. Even with the spray, it looks like it has a small amount of fraying. Nowhere near as bas as without it, though. The only issue I've had is one of the clamps came off and I had to redo the entire wrap because it unraveled.
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