• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Carb removal

  • Thread starter Thread starter abaton6
  • Start date Start date
A

abaton6

Guest
82 650L I need to remove the carbs. I've got fuel to the carbs, but she won't fire up. She fires up fine with a good dose of either. I removed the airbox that the igniter is attached to,..very tight! But I'm at a loss as to the plastic piece that attaches to the inlet of the carbs. The frame seems to have it locked in place. Can't move it backwards or sideways. I checked the service manual,...no mention of how to remove the carbs. Any help would be appreciated. Y'all stay safe in these crazy times! PS, this forum will not let me reply to anyone. I have to post a reply at the top of the thread. Thanks
 
Wanna post a pic or give more details about the function of this "plastic piece"?
 
Actually, the ignitor and r/r are mounted on plate on bottom of air filter box....the air box (the thing that actually connects to carb inlets) is different. You need to unbolt air filter box from frame and push aside wiring in order to slide back the air filter box and the air box after removing the 4 clamps on carb inlets ....1/2 inch is a big deal here. Once this is done, you can loosen clamps on carb exit and slide carb rack back..1/2 inch is still a big deal here! Please take pics first so you can refer to them later when reconnecting stuff. Don?t be surprised if you learn new languages to curse in.
Yes, it?s no fun, so best to do it just once.
 
Scroll down in this section and read timebombprom?s thread....he?s working on 650 carbs too.
 
Buffalo, Tom corrected me here.. I removed the"filter box", But I'm having trouble with the air box.
 
abaton6 said:
Buffalo, Tom corrected me here.. I removed the"filter box", But I'm having trouble with the air box.
Click to expand...
Ok, I never had a 650, but I had a 550. Each is different. I'm working on my own 1100G today, big bikes have more room and I have no problem sliding the airbox out so I can pull the carbs.
Don't get frustrated, the factory engineers left way to do things, we just have to figure out what.
 
There is just enough room to move the airbox back, and disengage it from the carbs. You won't be able to remove it, but you'll be able to wiggle it into a position that allows you to pull the carbs backward, and then sideways. Obviously you need all clips loose, and all cables, fuel lines etc disconnected.
 
Pop out the fender mounting posts and slide the fender backwards slightly to give you some extra room. Disconnect the airbox from the frame bolts (top and side) and let it sit free. Throw a cargo strap through the front wheel and attach each end to the center stand to keep the bike from moving forward. Loosen the clamps on both the intake boots and the airbox side being careful not to completely unscrew the screws. Be sure to disconnect the choke and throttle cables. Pull the carbs straight back out of the intake boots and angle up so the carbs slide out of the airbox boots. Once it is free then slide the carbs out the right side of the bike.
 
The fender is about 6-7 inches away from the airbox. Maybe you're thinking about another bike. There is no way this airbox can be moved back more than maybe a half inch. There is a protrusion at the back of it that is between the frame tubes. If I try to move it to the right, the front is dragging against the carb intakes. Looks impossible, but I'll work on it. It must come out. I've had thoughts of a hacksaw,....must not go there.
 
Idea.

Idea.

What about individual air filters? Get rid of the air box?
 
Personally I wouldn't. You'd be swapping one problem for a whole new set of problems. What size jets? Adjust needles etc. Some have the knack and the patience for that sort of work though.
 
Your 650 is similar to my 550 and that little bit of movement will help.

As far as getting rid of the air box, how much time do you have to constantly remove the carbs to troubleshoot any running problems? Search the archives here and it's going to be pretty evident that you'll do a lot of work for it.
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Your 650 is similar to my 550 and that little bit of movement will help.

As far as getting rid of the air box, how much time do you have to constantly remove the carbs to troubleshoot any running problems? Search the archives here and it's going to be pretty evident that you'll do a lot of work for it.
Click to expand...
Absolutely ,as I said before, 1/2 inch is a big deal.....and all you get.
once carbs are properly cleaned, this bike will run super with stock setup.
 
redneck method to heat the rubber to remove carbs

redneck method to heat the rubber to remove carbs

carb heat.jpgI used a quartz heater
 
I took one carb apart, and it looks whistle clean. Not at all what I expected for a 38 Y. O. bike, with 4,200 miles on it. But, as long as they are out, I'll get a carb rebuild kit for em. Sorry, but this forum will not let me post a pic at this time
 

Attachments

  • bike1.jpg
    bike1.jpg
    91.1 KB · Views: 0
I took one carb apart, and it looks whistle clean. Not at all what I expected for a 38 Y. O. bike, with 4,200 miles on it. But, as long as they are out, I'll get a carb rebuild kit for em.carb1.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top