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Success report: changed fork seals without separating fork tubes

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    Success report: changed fork seals without separating fork tubes

    Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
    Latest news coverage, email, free stock quotes, live scores and video are just the beginning. Discover more every day at Yahoo!


    Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

    Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.

    #2
    This method may earn a try on my 81 GS850. I'm always in favor of trying something slightly unorthodox

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
      Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
      Latest news coverage, email, free stock quotes, live scores and video are just the beginning. Discover more every day at Yahoo!


      Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

      Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.

      You could not have posted this at a more opportune time. I just got home today and noticed a small puddle of oil under my front forks. You can imagine my fury, considering I replaced them a little more than 3 months ago. Something tells me, I'm going to be trying this method.

      Comment


        #4
        hm...hopefully I can cancel my repair order at the Suzuki dealer... all I wanted to do was have the damper rod removed, as I dont have the right tools, but if I dont have to disassemble, I dont need the work to be done.

        Thanks for the link!

        Comment


          #5
          you still have to remove the upper tube from the triple tree that way, it doesn't seem to be that great a way. I always found that removing the lower fork tube was easier than taking the triple apart. But that is just me
          8-[

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the tip.
            I'll have to try it and post my results here\\/
            Doug aka crag antler

            83GS1100E, gone
            2000 Kawasaki Concours
            Please wear ATGATT

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by t3rmin View Post
              Wow. Just changed my fork seals using the method described here:
              Latest news coverage, email, free stock quotes, live scores and video are just the beginning. Discover more every day at Yahoo!


              Piece. Of. Cake. Turn your air compressor loose on the fork air valve and the old seal pops out just as nice as you please! No need to remove the inner fork tube!

              Yeah it's been mentioned here before but I had to bring it up again. I wasn't looking forward to tackling the forks but this really made the project a cinch.
              What about all the forks without a nitrogen fill valve? This method seems ok for new air or nitrogen adjustable forks, but if you have an old scool style fork, this can't be done.

              The other negitive about this air pressure trick, is many times fork seals also go bad from worn out fork slider bushings. When you blow out the seal, you never get a chance to inspect the bushings for excessive wear.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Clone View Post
                you still have to remove the upper tube from the triple tree that way, it doesn't seem to be that great a way. I always found that removing the lower fork tube was easier than taking the triple apart. But that is just me
                8-[
                Just loosen the upper and lower pinches, remove the wheel/brakes/fender, and you're out. I always figured that was the easy part. ;-)

                You'd have to do most of that even if you left the upper tube clamped in the triple, wouldn't you?
                Last edited by Guest; 04-23-2007, 01:37 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Road_Clam View Post
                  What about all the forks without a nitrogen fill valve? This method seems ok for new air or nitrogen adjustable forks, but if you have an old scool style fork, this can't be done.

                  The other negitive about this air pressure trick, is many times fork seals also go bad from worn out fork slider bushings. When you blow out the seal, you never get a chance to inspect the bushings for excessive wear.
                  Well you do need a way to get the air into the forks to pop out the seal. If you don't have air forks with the fill valve you can't use this method (unless you rigged up something with the drain bolt maybe?). Somebody else recently suggested overfilling the forks with oil then compressing them hard (in a press, if necessary) to pop out the seals (after removing the circlip, of course!). This would work without an air valve and it's the same basic idea.

                  And you're right about the bushings. If you have any doubts about the integrity of the rest of your fork components, you'd probably want to dismantle and inspect fully. I felt like my forks were in really good shape otherwise so I didn't feel that was necessary.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    When you did this did you get the impression you could pump adequate pressure in with a manual pump rather than a compressor?

                    I presume so as the fork legs don't hold much volume....

                    Might try this way myself (now I've got all the tools... doh!)

                    Dan
                    1980 GS1000G - Sold
                    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
                      When you did this did you get the impression you could pump adequate pressure in with a manual pump rather than a compressor?
                      I wouldn't be surprised if that worked. Once the circlip is out there's not much holding that seal. Good luck!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Thanks, I can certainly get more than 100 PSI with my track pump so it should work.

                        Dan
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          http://img218.imageshack.us/img218/7286/seal3sm5.jpg Just make sure your fork is fully extended, drywall screw, pull old seal out. No pressurized oil vapor blowing around and no mess either.
                          Last edited by Guest; 04-26-2007, 07:04 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            ok, I tried this the other night... Of course I tried the one that WASNT leaking first. I got the dust cap off and noticed it was all rusty underneath. no problem I thought, all the more reason to change it... took the spring out, hooked up my air, and put a little in... the forks extended, but that was it... little more air, nothing... I checked the pressure, and had 89PSI in there... and it wasnt budging.... I didnt think of using a manual pump though...

                            the other seal should come out fairly easy, though...

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I took mine totally apart. New fork seals and steering stem bearings. Now Im wondering about the reassembly. what gets tightened first ? Steering nut, upper & lwr fork tree, front wheel axle ? Whats the proceedure to get everything aligned back up ?
                              82 1100 EZ (red)

                              "You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTY

                              Comment

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