HELP!! Dynojet Stage 3 Kit, missing documentation

[spchips]

dyno stage 3 jet kit for a 79 GS1000

I just rec'd one of these in the mail from bikebandit, but it did not come with "chart one", the chart that has all the settings on it. I have the instructions, but I do not have the chart. I really need this so I can get moving on this project. The only useful parts I have to barter with are:

3 BRAND NEW intake boots for 26-28mm carbs
air box (of course)
lots of bolts and such goodies

HELP!!

[renobruce]

Base Settings:

Main Jet - 138
Needle - Groove #2
Adj. Washer - above
Fuel mixture - 2 1/2 turns

Is that what you needed?

[spchips]

Thanks.

Is there a specified setting on the pilot air screw, or is that what I can vary to get it running with what you listed held constant?

I think that's enough to get me started. Once they're on the bike, we'll see how good it is.

[renobruce]

I'm no expert, but am learning. Keith Krause is the VM26 expert. He does not go by the standard settings on the kits and usually recommends a different set-up. It would depend on what mods you have on the bike, i.e. stock airbox or pods, 4 into 1, etc.
Let us know what mods you have.

[spchips]

The bike has cone type pods (not K &N, but I'm not that picky.)
Currently, it is a stock exhaust, and with the price of aftermarket I think it'll stay that way. It is possible the baffles either are already or will be punched through.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

The stage 3 kit is designed for use with K&N filters and a QUALITY pipe.
Because you're using cheaper pods and a stock exhaust, you defeat the design of the kit, so don't expect this to be easy, don't expect perfect street manners either.
I'll give it a shot though. Don't know your elevation.
Use the smaller mains...138, but those may be too rich. In your case, you may as well try them though.
Place the jet needle e-clips in the 4th groove from the top AND place the DJ jetting spacer directly on top the e-clip. This is like position "3 1/2". Re-install all factory plastic needle washers in exact order. It's always best/safest to jet rich and work your way back. 3 1/2 may work or be a bit rich (?). If so, try the e-clip in the 3rd position from the top with NO jetting spacer.
Keep the #15 pilot jets.
Try pilot fuel screws (underneath) at 1 1/4 turns to start. The side air screws are ALWAYS set for highest rpm using 1,000 rpm as a base idle. Set them at 1 3/4 to start and fine tune later on a warmed up motor.
Remove the two floatbowl vent lines so the bowls can breath better.
The carbs MUST be bench synched and then vacuum tool synched as a basic part of re-jetting. Skip this step and you'll have trouble, especially the bench synch. You'll still most likely have difficulty if you skip the vacuum tool synch. After any jet needle/e-clip changes, you MUST re-synch the VM carbs.
Before the vacuum tool synch, adjust the side air screws as I said and tune them for highest rpm. Vacuum synch. Then re-tune the air screws to be sure they're right. Road testing will determine if the pilot fuel screws need adjusting. If you end up moving them beyond 1/4 turn from initial setting, it's suggested you re-tune the air screws too.
Also before vacuum synch, the valve clearances and ignition timing must be correct. Clean carbs too. Fresh o-rings everywhere.
Hope this helps. Just my best guess here. With the jet kit and parts you're using, it's hard to try to guess it right the first time.
Let us know how it goes so we can help others down the road.
Oh...full throttle to test the mains...1/3 throttle to test the needles..minimal throttle to test the pilot circuit. Good luck.

[spchips]

Thanks.

Thanks a bunch. That was a great description. Once I get these things on and running, I will not hesitate to report back

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Just to add...Not knowing your carbs history, be sure the thicker factory plastic spacer is above the e-clip and any jetting spacer used, and the thinner factory plastic spacer is below the e-clip. If these are not installed in factory order, you'll be much richer than intended.
Also, if you have any questions on the VM bench synch, I made a detailed post on how to do this at another thread.
I should have marked that thread but I didn't. Do a search if you want.
It was in reponse to Hoomgars post in the technical section. Titled: "GS1K re-jet, bad fuel economy, Keith Krause", or something like that.

[spchips]

more details

Just wondering, when you are listing the # of turns, is that out from stock or total from all the way in? If it is out from stock, what is stock??

also, I'm trying to figure out what to do with all the hoses. I'd like to get rid of all of them. I refer to the two large breathers and the four small hoses. I don't know much about the theory of operation of these, and I'd like a better understanding of their usefulness. If they are all useless, why are they there? Any thoughts would help.
I recall in one post that someone actually had performance problems due either to clogged or wrong length carb overflow/vent hoses.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Just wondering, when you are listing the # of turns, is that out from stock or total from all the way in? If it is out from stock, what is stock??

also, I'm trying to figure out what to do with all the hoses. I'd like to get rid of all of them. I refer to the two large breathers and the four small hoses. I don't know much about the theory of operation of these, and I'd like a better understanding of their usefulness. If they are all useless, why are they there? Any thoughts would help.
I recall in one post that someone actually had performance problems due either to clogged or wrong length carb overflow/vent hoses.

The number of turns I mention on any screw is from LIGHTLY seated. Do not turn these screws down snug or tight.
The two floatbowl vent lines must be removed for adequate venting since you're running pods. Leave the ports open to breath. If you wash the bike with a hose, just be careful where you direct the water.
The four smaller lines, one under each bowl, are overflow lines in case you have a stuck float valve, etc, that results in a high bowl level. Route these to the ground. The excess fuel will run through these and drain out SAFELY to the ground. Do not remove them because you don't like their looks. If you ever have a spill, the motor could be hot at the time and you know what could happen.

[DaveDanger]

For my next birthday or Christmas, I'm gonna tell my wife that I want a tiny slice of Keith Krause's brain. There's something going on in there that defies description...

Different subject altogether. Does anyone know where I can find a really detailed couple of photos of the CV carbs on my 81 GS850? Or a book that details this type of carb? an internet article? A child's crayon drawing?

I want to be able to determine exactly what adjustment screws and jets are where. Several views and angles, with everything marked with arrows and such. My Clymers gives me just enough information to be irritating, and the Suzuki shop manual I ordered for my year model came in as a 79 GS850 manual. It illustrates nothing but the other style carbs.

I currently have my carbs disassembled for cleaning again (5th time) and I still don't know exactly what is referred to when someone advises me to adjust screws and jets and needles. I've never had to do these adjustments on any bike I've owned before and it's frustrating the fool outa me. Mostly because I can't identify specific locations on the carbs.

[spchips]

http://www.thegsresources.com/images/carbs/065_General%20carb%20exploded%20view1.jpg

This is slide 65 of the carb cleanup series on the main GSresources site. This one picture does a good job of showing everything and the whole assembly, while the guide goes through the entire carb very thoroughly

[DaveDanger]

*SIGH* I did it again. I get into one of these posts that has a similar content to something I need to address and BING! my fingers go into stealth Hi-Jack mode without me realizing it. Apologies...