super cheap/ easy LED tail/turn signals

[rusty boltz]

Thought I'd share this since I see it pop up on the forum occasionally. Since I cant leave well enough alone I decided to fool around with my lights. No pics of doing it only pics of it done. This was incredibley easy and all parts were either original or bought from a local napa. First pic is of tail light and tag lights with LED's, second pic is with the brake light on. Pics dont show how incredibley bright this really is.

[Texatl]

Cool- but...

How'd you do it??!?!??!?!

[rusty boltz]

This is a turn signal I sanded down and painted satin black. I decide not to use them because I don't think the long stalks go with the look of the bike. They are for sale if anyone wants them. There are 7 led's in the stock housing. Honestly they are no brighter than the incandesent ones but give off a really cool looking light. Also they are filtered twice so if I remove the filter over the led's and just use the stock lense they would be quite a bit brighter.

[rusty boltz]

thought I'd throw in a pic of my 79 gs1000 you guys helped me put together (with the infinite wisdom available from GSR). Thanks again guys! If anyone is interested on a how to for these led lights I' ll post it but now I have to go to work.....stupid job.

[Skyboy8950]

Cheap, easy, quick. Yes, I want to do that!

Have you seen these? http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

[Steve]

Have you seen these? http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

Yes, I have seen them advertised, but have never seen how they look in a light assembly. Usually, LED bulb replacements give you a rather intense spot of light in the center, but don't fill up the available lens area. These are supposed to, but I have never checked them out.

.

[Skyboy8950]

Can't wait to hear what rusty has to say. I know when wiring up LEDs, you need a resistor in there, unless he has pre-wired LEDs that he mounted on a board and placed it in there. That could be simple/cheap.

[Skyboy8950]

Also they are filtered twice so if I remove the filter over the led's and just use the stock lense they would be quite a bit brighter.

Actually, if they are yellow going through a yellow lens, then that is ideal. The LEDs produce a color rather than filtering white into a color. This means 100% of the energy is going into that color. Then, a yellow lens filters out all other light BUT yellow, so all the light is going through. If you had white LEDs and did this, it would be much more dim.

[BassCliff]

Cheap, easy, quick. Yes, I want to do that!

Have you seen these? http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

Hi,

Don't waste your money on the multi-LED bulbs (15 LED, 24 LED, 30 LED). Go straight for the 3 watt and 5 watt Luxeon bulbs (1156 and 1157 type). They are killer.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Dogma]

Actually, if they are yellow going through a yellow lens, then that is ideal. The LEDs produce a color rather than filtering white into a color. This means 100% of the energy is going into that color. Then, a yellow lens filters out all other light BUT yellow, so all the light is going through. If you had white LEDs and did this, it would be much more dim.

White LEDs are blue with a phosphor coating anyway, as I understand it. Even a "yellow" LED may lose a significant amount of light if the wavelength produced is not close to the color of the lens. Just nitpicking though, your point is valid.

[Skyboy8950]

Hi,

Don't waste your money on the multi-LED bulbs (15 LED, 24 LED, 30 LED). Go straight for the 3 watt and 5 watt Luxeon bulbs (1156 and 1157 type). They are killer.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Yea, that is good and all, but at $30 a pop, thats a lot of $$$. I said cheap!

[BassCliff]

Cooking with photons

Yea, that is good and all, but at $30 a pop, thats a lot of $$$. I said cheap!

Good.
Cheap.
Fast.


Choose two.


But seriously, if you want cheap, stick with getting the stock electrical systems working as well as they can and use the Stanley 1073 bulbs for a buck and a half each. New lenses aren't that expensive and can really brighten up your lights too.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[rusty boltz]

Actually, if they are yellow going through a yellow lens, then that is ideal. The LEDs produce a color rather than filtering white into a color. This means 100% of the energy is going into that color. Then, a yellow lens filters out all other light BUT yellow, so all the light is going through. If you had white LEDs and did this, it would be much more dim.

Thats news to me, didn't know that. Anyway are you ready for this.... these are semi trailer lights. The tail/brake light is just a tail/brake light for a trailer. There are resistors built in so it was plug n play ( actually more like cut your plug, connect to the light, then plug n play) but it took maybe 30 minutes to do the tail. The signals are 2" round marker lights hot glued in the housing and the tag lights are just cheap pilot led's from advance auto. The tail light is awesome. It was so easy (for me anyway).
First remove everything from the stock tailight (wiring, sockets, glass reflector, etc. You'll have to cut the wires to get the socket out so cut it as close to the socket as possible cuz youll need the connector unless you want to hardwire it.
Then drill the 2 (or as many as you want) holes for the tag light in the lens
Then connect (I used sealed butt connectors) the three wires for tail/brake lamps to the stock connecter from the tail lights, also keep in mind trailers use white as ground and black as power kinda like yer house and thats how this led is wired.
Then connect the gray wire and black/white wire to the led's for the tag lights. Mount them first it's easier and make sure you wire them parallel.
The tail/brake led unit actually sandwiches perfectly between the lens and housing no special mounting required, so position it then crank the screws in slowly and evenly so it doesnt shift and so you don't crack the lens.
Plug it back in and check it before re installing.
All together there is five wires you need to connect and the only real modification is drilling the holes for the tag lights. I used the stock connector so I can easily remove the unit and don't have to hack the wiring on the bike. This is alot easier than I make it sound and the end result is 12 led's in my factory tail light that I will never have to change again and it puts less load on the electrical system (the lights used to dim with the stock lamp when I hit the brake). Oh and the tail/brake led unit was from napa, i'll get a part # later today. These lights are super tough we've used them for 2 years now on our contruction equipment and I've never ever had to replace one. If anyone wants to do this to their bike feel free to ask any questions. If you have a pristine condition GS for God's sake leave it alone unless you have an extra taillamp assembly to do it to. Thanks for lookin!
Edit: And the turn signals DO trip the flasher 100% plug n play! still for sale only the rear though.

[catbed]

Thats news to me, didn't know that. Anyway are you ready for this.... these are semi trailer lights. The tail/brake light is just a tail/brake light for a trailer. There are resistors built in so it was plug n play ( actually more like cut your plug, connect to the light, then plug n play) but it took maybe 30 minutes to do the tail. The signals are 2" round marker lights hot glued in the housing and the tag lights are just cheap pilot led's from advance auto. The tail light is awesome. It was so easy (for me anyway).
First remove everything from the stock tailight (wiring, sockets, glass reflector, etc. You'll have to cut the wires to get the socket out so cut it as close to the socket as possible cuz youll need the connector unless you want to hardwire it.
Then drill the 2 (or as many as you want) holes for the tag light in the lens
Then connect (I used sealed butt connectors) the three wires for tail/brake lamps to the stock connecter from the tail lights, also keep in mind trailers use white as ground and black as power kinda like yer house and thats how this led is wired.
Then connect the gray wire and black/white wire to the led's for the tag lights. Mount them first it's easier and make sure you wire them parallel.
The tail/brake led unit actually sandwiches perfectly between the lens and housing no special mounting required, so position it then crank the screws in slowly and evenly so it doesnt shift and so you don't crack the lens.
Plug it back in and check it before re installing.
All together there is five wires you need to connect and the only real modification is drilling the holes for the tag lights. I used the stock connector so I can easily remove the unit and don't have to hack the wiring on the bike. This is alot easier than I make it sound and the end result is 12 led's in my factory tail light that I will never have to change again and it puts less load on the electrical system (the lights used to dim with the stock lamp when I hit the brake). Oh and the tail/brake led unit was from napa, i'll get a part # later today. These lights are super tough we've used them for 2 years now on our contruction equipment and I've never ever had to replace one. If anyone wants to do this to their bike feel free to ask any questions. If you have a pristine condition GS for God's sake leave it alone unless you have an extra taillamp assembly to do it to. Thanks for lookin!
Edit: And the turn signals DO trip the flasher 100% plug n play! still for sale only the rear though.

actually, white is neutral and black is hot in a house. green is ground.


but, nice idea! i've seen/heard people talking about it but never seen it done.

[rusty boltz]

[quote=catbed;875176]actually, white is neutral and black is hot in a house. green is ground.




Oops, good thing I'm not an electrician by trade . I might starve. However, the LED tail lamp is wired with black (tail light 12V), white (ground) and red (brake light). The turn signal is wired as black (signal 12V) and white (ground). The el cheapo tag lights were red (12v) and black (ground). The trailer lights are sealed in epoxy and completely submersible (I checked ) as well as vibration resistant.
My next project is going to be an ultra bright HID headlight pirated from a wrecked 2004 nissan maxima. As a bonus, it uses way less power than the 55W I have in there now (around 12W). Just need to figure out where to mount the ballast . Mr. Suzuki didn't leave a whole lot of room anywhere.