One is here:
So here is the whole enchilada which is based on a GS1100E which already has Neutral, Sidestand and Clutch switches:
The logic is as follow:
Starter will not crank unless:
- either the clutch is in
- or in neutral.
- either Kick stand is up
- or Kick stand down in Neutral
- (Normally Open) Kickstand switch
- Kickstand and Neutral Lights
- Clutch switch (Normally Open)
- Neutral Switch (Normally Open)
Requires adding:
- One automotive style relay (if you have the Normally Closed Kick stand switch then the relay can be omitted but add an additional diode if there is a kickstand light)
- Two Diodes
- Some wires
- The light blue squares leading to the Neutral SW (switch) and the Kickstand Switch are plugin/splices (do back to back bullet connectors)into the harness where your switches connect to the harness
- The diodes on each relay are suppression diodes which may not be absolutely necessary or they are built into the relays. Normally these are not required, but I will have to check if the diodes could be damaged without having the suppression diodes.
- The coil relay mod is assumed to be installed and drives the entire ignition circuit
- The thick green wires and Kick Stand Polarity Relay are the only changes/additions.
- The clutch switch is normally a high side switch. It is now configured as a low side switch (switching to ground). A single wire will have to comeback from the left hand control to the starter solenoid.
- The starter solenoid internal ground will have to be removed of the case isolated so the ground can be controlled.
- The recommended physical location is the the battery box where the coil relay would be located and the solenoid is close by.
Pos
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