Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GS1100 Starter Ignition Safety Interlock

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    GS1100 Starter Ignition Safety Interlock

    There have been a couple of threads lately to add modern bike safety interlock features to an old GS.
    One is here:

    This forum contains old posts which may have information which may be useful. It is a closed forum in that you can not post here any longer. Please post your questions in the other technical forums.


    So here is the whole enchilada which is based on a GS1100E which already has Neutral, Sidestand and Clutch switches:

    The logic is as follow:






    Starter will not crank unless:
    • either the clutch is in
    • or in neutral.
    The engine will not run unless :
    • either Kick stand is up
    • or Kick stand down in Neutral
    Solution assumes:
    • (Normally Open) Kickstand switch
    • Kickstand and Neutral Lights
    • Clutch switch (Normally Open)
    • Neutral Switch (Normally Open)
    All the above is OEM stock for GS1100E, but in addition need the Coil Relay Mod added which is a good idea anyway.



    Requires adding:
    • One automotive style relay (if you have the Normally Closed Kick stand switch then the relay can be omitted but add an additional diode if there is a kickstand light)
    • Two Diodes
    • Some wires
    This can possibly be simplified if you don't need the full functionality on your bike. The stuff in DARK THICK GREEN is added for this interlock. The rest is either the coil relay mod or is stock OEM wiring. I coded the colors according to the schematic in the manual. Here are a few implementation notes:
    • The light blue squares leading to the Neutral SW (switch) and the Kickstand Switch are plugin/splices (do back to back bullet connectors)into the harness where your switches connect to the harness
    • The diodes on each relay are suppression diodes which may not be absolutely necessary or they are built into the relays. Normally these are not required, but I will have to check if the diodes could be damaged without having the suppression diodes.
    • The coil relay mod is assumed to be installed and drives the entire ignition circuit
    • The thick green wires and Kick Stand Polarity Relay are the only changes/additions.
    • The clutch switch is normally a high side switch. It is now configured as a low side switch (switching to ground). A single wire will have to comeback from the left hand control to the starter solenoid.
    • The starter solenoid internal ground will have to be removed of the case isolated so the ground can be controlled.
    • The recommended physical location is the the battery box where the coil relay would be located and the solenoid is close by.
    Next step is to layout the physical modifications

    Pos



    Last edited by posplayr; 06-12-2009, 01:16 PM.

    #2
    No fair. You did my homework for me.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Damn Jimmy! Nice work sir... Personally I loathe the stock Zook clutch lever lock out, so I HIGHLY doubt I will ever do this mod, but good on ya for those that want it! What a guy!

      Comment


        #4
        Josh,
        This is actually not a bad idea.

        As far as the starter inhibit, it simply prevents you from cranking when in gear with clutch engaged which is not a good idea (ask Chef how I know).

        As far as the ignition interlock, well it prevents you from driving with the side stand down.

        Neither of these things you really want to do.

        Comment

        Working...
        X