82GS750T - Seal, T/M Gear Shift Oil

[GSXR7ED]

Paint Dried - 3Feb2014

Brackets and MC came out pretty good. Got the piston in the MC...that outer piece of rubber is a dust protector.






Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Now, Back to this Seal for a Minute

While waiting on parts and soaking components: caliper/MC/bracket/bolts/washers...I had a chance to do some cleaning up in this area. All I used was isopropyl alcohol, q-tips, and a wire brush to clean up the area that started this thread. I'm going to find this oil leak soon enough. Check out the difference:

BEFORE


AFTER


And by the way, here's the right/left handlebar. I'm adjusting the clutch cable at the moment but wanted to show you guys this:




My camera phone sucks for pics but that's what I have atm.

Now, back to adjusting the clutch cable.

Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Bleeding the Brakes "NO WORKIE"

Boy, I'm telling you...I'm starting to envy the riders I see now that the weather is clearing up here in NM.

I took the CALIPER off and figured there would be fluid in the line: NOPE.



I took the line off the MC and there is something amiss.



Something is clogging the MC so I will ONCE AGAIN put it in Safety Kleen (I kept squeezing the handle to drain the MC but nothing). In the meantime, I will tackle removing the piston from the caliper and installing the dust cover first before squeezing the piston in there. I've noticed that it will slide in when I turn the piston--like it's not a perfect circle. Wierd but that's what I see.


Ed

[dorkburger]

I havent had to diagnose M/C problems yet, but during my last brake fluid change, in order to get the fluid moving, I had to very gently and slowly move the lever in and out, to bleed out the air from the M/C piston. You may see tiny bubbles when doing this. After that I do It the lazy mans way....keep the M/C topped off, open the bleeders, and let gravtiy do the rest.

[GSXR7ED]

Trial/Error

I havent had to diagnose M/C problems yet, but during my last brake fluid change, in order to get the fluid moving, I had to very gently and slowly move the lever in and out, to bleed out the air from the M/C piston. You may see tiny bubbles when doing this. After that I do It the lazy mans way....keep the M/C topped off, open the bleeders, and let gravtiy do the rest.

I'm squeezing the handle and see bubbles coming up in the MC bowl but no fluid is flowing through the piston. Maybe I installed the spring/rubber seal incorrectly. I used my Clymer's book as well as the fiche diagram so this is a trial and error experience for me.

I'm glad I'm not in a rush...this is part of learning my bike. I'm not frustrated yet...just wanna figure this out...and I will. Then I will enjoy riding my "T" knowing I did the maintenance on her. (I'll always check my work at slow speeds before taking it to the limit).



Ed

[eil]

Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-I...s=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.

[GSXR7ED]

Hey Charles,

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to use the suction device once I re-assemble the caliper and put everything back as it was before.

About the MC..I didnt realize the second hole had a tiny opening unlike the primary which I can see the grooves of the piston as I'm compressing the top part of the piston. Anyway, it will be worked on tonite and I'll post pics. Thanks for your feedback!


Ed

[zuzu]

Here is a good bleeder.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-f...der-92924.html

This is the one I use.

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man-brake-bleeder-kit-37201.html

[GSXR7ED]

Bleeders

Here is a good bleeder.

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html

This is the one I use.

http://www.harborfreight.com/one-man...kit-37201.html

Thanks for the assist. I'm borrowing one from a friend tonite. I'll take pics and post.


Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Okay, I used a bleeder suction tool and got fluid through the bleeder valve. Now, I'm just squeezing the brake lever (I didn't take your advice on removing the handle because I didn't want to disconnect the electrical unit that goes underneath the handle.

I'm happy that I got the piston back in the caliper...I didn't put the dust cover on first as was suggested in BassCliff's site. Instead, I used a scratch awl to push the seal inside/alongside the piston--I used a lot of brake fluid to make it pliable and it worked.

I'll tie something to the handle and leave it overnight as suggested. Man, this is a nuisance but an important part of safety for me and my bike.



Ed

[mrbill5491]

Dang Ed, If I were feeling better, I would ride over and help ya. Not able to ride with a nice little arhritic flair up going on in my neck right now. Can't even stand the weight of the helmet on my neck.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.

[GSXR7ED]

Thanks Bill

Dang Ed, If I were feeling better, I would ride over and help ya. Not able to ride with a nice little arhritic flair up going on in my neck right now. Can't even stand the weight of the helmet on my neck.

Hope you get it sorted out soon.

I appreciate the thought Bill...just relax and take care of yourself my friend. I'll figure this out.

Moar Pics:

















Ed

[eil]

So is the lever fairly firm now? Tying it back overnight generally removes that last bit of sponginess, it can't bleed a significant amount of air from the lines/calipers if there's some left.

[GSXR7ED]

Status

So is the lever fairly firm now? Tying it back overnight generally removes that last bit of sponginess, it can't bleed a significant amount of air from the lines/calipers if there's some left.

I'm gonna hit the gym and then spend the evening with my baby. I left the handle pulled back and tied overnight and all day while I'm at work. Once this is sorted, I still have to mess with my clutch cable!!!

Keepping me busy is my "T".




Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Comedy Night - 12Feb14

I fiddled a little bit with the MC last night but got too engrossed with Breaking Bad S4/E12. And tonite I am going to "Inn of the Mountain Gods" for "Comedy Night".

http://innofthemountaingods.com/events/laugh-out-loud-comedy/

Have a good night you guys!


Ed