Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Removing pilot screw cap

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Removing pilot screw cap

    Can anyone provide the procedure for drilling out the pilot screw plugs(and then if its more than just unscrewing, taking out the pilot screws?)

    thanks,
    L1234

    #2
    Drill in carefully with a fairly small bit. You only need one big enough to get a self tapping or sheet metal screw into it. Maybe 1/16 to 1/8 inch or so. The head of the pilot screw is close to the underside of the cap (mine had a cap not a plug, but may be the same procedure), but there is some space. The cap was thin, so I put some tape around the bit to help gauge the depth, but it will break through and try to go deeper. Try not to hit the head of the pilot screw, but if you just touch it, it should still be OK. Then screw the sheet metal screw in, and pull with pliers. The cap should come off without too much force. At least this is how I did it. As for the screws, I try to always use an appropriately sized screw driver and use only as much force as necessary, while crossing my fingers, and holding my breath.
    Last edited by Guest; 04-14-2007, 09:43 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      Twist and Pull

      Hi, L1234.

      I have a slightly different process; I use my dremel with a small engraving tip. First I score a shallow slot for a small flat-blade screw driver across the plug, then I carefully drill trough the plug with the engraving tip. When I break through it's always with just a little bit of force so I can control the break-through. Then I just work the scored slot on both sides of the hole until I have a slot through the plug.

      Now I just use my screwdriver (smallest size) to twist until it breaks loose and rotates in the tower. Now I just twist while oulling out and it slowly just comes out.

      The reason I use this approach is I never had much luck with the metal screw method; I suspect because both 1981 bikes I bought had never had them removed and they wouldn't budge by pulling straight out. Seemed that breaking them loose by rotation was necessary. I've done this on both bikes now and takes about a minute a piece.

      Norseman

      Comment


        #4
        I used a #2 tap extractor and it worked great. I did use a dremmel to create the hole for the tap extractor for more control. Be sure to have the carbs off the bike!

        Comment


          #5
          And...when you do get to the mixture screws, take a Sharpie and make a mark that lines up with the edge of the slot so you can accurately count how many turns it takes to seat them lightly. Record the number for each carb, they might be just a little different.


          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment

          Working...
          X