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Float Pin Removal Tool (I broke my last post)

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    Float Pin Removal Tool (I broke my last post)

    After breaking a float post on some desirable carbs, I decided that the sweating bullets while trying to remove these is, well...

    STUPID.

    modified some beat up channel locks and now I will never break a post again.
    Last edited by spchips; 10-27-2007, 04:02 PM.
    Yamaha fz1 2007

    #2
    Please explain.

    Cheers

    Don

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      #3
      Would snap ring pliers help at all??

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        #4
        All is not lost, most of us have been there... Mine's been on XS850 carbs.

        Just use a small brad, a pair of needle nose pliers, a bit of penetrating oil and care to get them out. You could drill a small hole in a block of wood, and use that as an anvil to drive the pin out, while supporting the post it is being driven thru. Give the pin a twist using the pliers before trying to drive it out, that should sheer anything that is holding it in. :arrow:

        And a broken post can be put back in place using J-B Weld, which is impervious to fuel.

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          #5
          I got frustrated with one carb pin; I cut it out with snips. They're only 60c or so, and I had an extra, so I decided to save myself the aggravation. Tapping them out really makes me break out in a sweat, since one was already broken, and had been held on by JB (not for long, though)
          Worst case scenario, I remember someone here posting this website:
          www.motorcyclecarbs.com I have heard great things about them.

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            #6
            Big Channelocks can be used to press the brad, but care to support the post on the long side is mandatory. Again, use oil or WD40 to loosen the pin, twist or rotate the pin to set the oil in motion, and drive the pin out. A very small socket can serve as the anvil.

            Welcome to the CBMMA...:-D

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              #7
              Originally posted by ironb12s View Post
              Again, use oil or WD40 to loosen the pin, twist or rotate the pin to set the oil in motion, and drive the pin out. A very small socket can serve as the anvil.

              Welcome to the CBMMA...:-D
              Twisting first is the key to success, It frees it up. After years of sitting there they start to weld to the carb body after a while. (IMHO)

              I use an engineers 'metal scribe' (with a 90 degree bent end) to push the pin out.
              Last edited by Guest; 10-31-2007, 08:33 AM.

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