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Alright, was just about to take the project on its first ride since putting the new forks on. I get it outside, all set to start. I pull in the clutch, press the button and nothing happens.... very anticlimactic. If I put the bike into first, pull the clutch in, the bike will not roll. I did put the front mini faring on, but it doesn't seem to be putting any pressure on the clutch hose. It also avoids the gas tank. There doesn't seem to be anything touching it in ways that would impair its function. Any ideas? It was working fine a few days ago....
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Hi there John. From your description, it sounds as if you're using a hydraulic clutch. Is this the case? Also, it sounds like you have 2 problems and that I'd be wanting to troubleshoot the "won't crank" problem first. If you're using a hydraulic clutch setup, can you see the slave cylinder moving when you stroke the clutch lever (master cylinder)? If it's a cable clutch you're describing, does the cable appear to be moving the clutch case lever when you move the handle? Is there resistance in either case (indicating that there's a clutch mechanical load being operated)? Did you recently put in new clutch plates or springs? If so, it's possible that you might NOT feel a complete release of the driveline with the engine shut off, though it may work ok when running......this will improve with riding (plates burnished and more parallel to each other).Originally posted by Jbeaber View Post
Lots of questions and not much for answers eh! -
It is a wire clutch, not hydraulic (or it has the tiniest reservoir on the handlebars EVER). There is resistance, everything feels normal when i pull the lever in. I do feel the cable moving where it connects to the main engine body. Now, I haven't removed the front fairing. It does slightly move the cable from it's free movement it had prior to the fairing being put on. Biut it doesn't seem to me like that should cause enough of an issue to impair function. Absolutely nothing happens when i pull the clutch in and try to start the bike. Like the clutch was out. Is it two problems? Where is the clutch switch that tells the bike the clutch is in when starting?Comment
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First I wouldn't worry about anything touching the cable sheath.......unless it causes the cable to bend sharply, this will be of no consequence. As for the engine cranking over, the clutch switch will be right in the handle assembly (on the handlebars) most likely.......make sure you didn't bump the kill switch to off (VERY common).....and that you're in neutral. What year/model of bike is this?Originally posted by Jbeaber View Post
Do you have a wiring diagram for it (and are you familiar with following it)?Comment
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Is the clutch cable broken by chance? or the adjustment out of wack?Comment
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That would be a good explanation for the lack of turning over. What it doesn't explain is the lack of rolling when I pull the clutch in while the bike is in gear. I may have bumped something recently. I put new grips on the bike and may have bumped stuff while putting them on.... I will check the kill switch and the clutch switch....
It is a 1985 GS550ES. I do have the diagram. I will look at the switches...Last edited by Guest; 12-13-2007, 01:28 AM.Comment
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Doesn't seem to be broken. There is still resistance, like there was prior to the 'issue'.Comment
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I doubt its probably the case but i would check your linkage as well, perhaps something came loose or got knocked around to cause it. Otherwise...THAT IS WEIRD...lolComment
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When the bike is cold oil will bind the clutch plates.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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perhaps, you either forgot to tighten or it loosened up - the clamp on the clutch pivot on the clutch side.
Even without a bolt, this will work for a little while, but then it can start jumping teeth
ask me how I knowYamaha fz1 2007Comment
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I can get the bike to shift gears. It is the clutch lever up on the handle bar that is the problem. I can move the bike to any gear I want with the foot lever. The problem is that when I pull in the hand lever, nothing happens. So, I can't start the bike and I can't roll the bike around in gear with the lever pulled in. The lever gives resistance. If I push the connection to the engine a bit, then pull the hand lever I can feel movement of the wire in the sheathing. It just isn't putting the bike into neutral when the lever is pulled...Last edited by Guest; 12-13-2007, 01:42 PM.Comment
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1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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Hey Chef-
Not understanding your ideas. Can you give me some more info? I have not gone near the gears at all. I try not to open engine cases if at all possible. Everything was working fine until at the worst a week ago. I haven't tried to start it in a week as I redid the front end and replaced the tires...Comment
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So, sounds like I have two separate problems. How does one unbind clutch plates? Also, I know how to check and test the kill switch. It gave me a few problems a while ago. I will give it a full inspection tonight. It might have been bumped at tweaked while I put new grips on the bike. Where is the clutch switch that electrically tells the bike the clutch is pulled in? If it isn't the kill switch, I'm thinking that might be where the problem is....Comment
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There's some confusion because you seem to have two different problems (maybe).
Is your problem that the clutch lever interlock isn't working so you can't use the starter? It is quite easy to take apart and clean--it is under the clutch lever. Be careful not to lose any little pieces. (On my bike it's actually circumvented, which you can do quite easily, but it's not recommended--my wiring harness is a little nasty or I would have fixed it already.)
Or the clutch isn't engaging (connecting the crank and transmission)? Or disengaging (slipping)? Try adjusting the cables. Check that the outer is seated properly on both ends.
The clutch plates binding when cold isn't a problem--you have to start the engine, pull in the clutch, shift to first--that'll unbind them. It is normal. Maybe don't mess with the cable until you sort out the safety switch.Comment
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