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    Starter/Electrical Help Please

    When I put my bike in the basement in November, it was idling a little bit rough, but otherwise running okay. I had an issue with the battery "boiling" and I ran the Stator Papers tests. It appeared to be overcharging and Duaneage was kind enough to supply me with a Honda RR. Over the winter, I took the carbs off and dipped them and adjusted the valves. I installed new positive and negative battery cables, a new cable to the starter and a new frame to engine ground wire, but other than installing the RR, did no electrical work. I bench synched the carbs and put things back together. The battery has been on a tender all winter and holds a charge at about 12.5 volts. A little weak but I didn't think it was a show stopper.

    I put the key in and turned it on. The headlight came on as planned and the indicator lights are working. So far, so good. I pulled in the clutch, hit the starter button and nothing. Try the turn signals and horn and they work. Switch everything off and try again. Swear freely and try again in vain. Pull out the manual and start reading.

    What I have done so far:

    1) Tested the starter. It turns over when I jump the poles of the relay but grudgingly. It also grinds when I jump directly from the positive battery post. I have some advice on checking the brushes which I will follow, but it doesn't explain the immediate issue.

    2) The manual suggests that the starter relay should be replaced because it doesn't click when I press the starter button. While making arrangements for a Suzuki relay, I also went to a lawn mower repair place this afternoon and pick up a universal 12 volt starter relay. It wasn't a long-term fix, but I figured that I could at least get the carbs properly synched, etc. for the weekend. I disconnected the positive battery cable, installed the relay, turned the key, pulled in the clutch, hit the starter button and still nothing. No click in the relay, same as before.

    3) I tested for current in the wire that actuates the relay from the starter button. A little weak, but it tested at 9.1 volts when I pull in the clutch and hit the starter button. I have a very limited understanding of electrical systems, but logically, this seems right. I only get current when I hit the starter button with the clutch lever pulled in.

    4) I pulled the headlight and checked the grounds in the headlight bucket. They test okay. I checked for resistance in the new wires I installed. They all test at .6 and I get a solid tone from the meter. The engine to frame ground tests at .6. The frame to negative post tests at .5 ohms.

    5) I tested on both sides of the fuse block and they all show 11.3 plus going into the harness.

    6) The wiring diagram shows a hot wire from the battery to the starter relay , a hot wire from the relay to the starter, a hot wire to the output terminal (I'm not sure what this is) and a yellow/green to the starter disconnect. The yellow/green is hot when I press the starter button and pull in the clutch.

    7) I went back over the wiring diagram for the RR and I believe I have wired it correctly. I wouldn't have thought that it could account for this problem in any case, since the engine isn't running.

    In any case, I'm out of ideas. I would be grateful for your advice on what to do next.

    Thanks.

    #2
    Problems

    Sound like you are not cranking when you hit the start button?

    You measured 9V at the yellow/green control wire to the solenoid (good).

    One little trick. The solenoid has to be grounded.

    Otherwise there is no return path for the current flowing from the yellow/green wire.

    If that ground is missing your charging is probably not working very well.

    The side plate that your selenoid and R/R ar mounted to is supposed to be grounded with one of the brass ring lugs from your harness.

    in the pic below you will notice the solenoid rear screw is grounded to the R/R mounting bolt that then goes to the battery.

    Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.


    There are three connections at the single point.

    1.) Wire to the solenoid ground
    2.) Wire to the battery
    3.) The R/R black wire ground.

    The GS750EX has NOT had any charging issues since and I'm still running the OEM R/R to this date. If anything this is my daily rider, and although after a few days the battery gets weak it always fires nearly instantly.

    Last edited by posplayr; 04-22-2009, 11:36 PM.

    Comment


      #3
      So, what do I need to do to ground the relay? I assume that since it was bolted to the plate, it had a ground path. Do I need to do something more specific than that?

      Thanks.

      Comment


        #4
        The plate is mounted in rubber. Unless there is a ground wire going to teh plate to ground it the solenoid will not work. There is normaly a wire mounted to the front mounting bolt of the solenoid. If it is missing run a ground wire like I show and pick up the R/R ground at the same time.
        In the pic I have both.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by posplayr View Post
          The plate is mounted in rubber. Unless there is a ground wire going to teh plate to ground it the solenoid will not work. There is normaly a wire mounted to the front mounting bolt of the solenoid. If it is missing run a ground wire like I show and pick up the R/R ground at the same time.
          In the pic I have both.

          I understand the need to ground the starter relay. There is no wire readily available as I see it, so I'm assuming that putting a wire under the relay when it is mounted would be the next step.

          Thanks.
          Last edited by Guest; 04-23-2009, 06:05 AM.

          Comment


            #6
            it depends on your relay to a certain extent. We are talking about the return current from the solenoid activation (electro magnet). I think the OEM grounds through the solenoid mounting bolt but then that depends on how much paint you have. I went directly to the right rear screw. The return wire comes out of the activation coil at that point (if I recall properly).

            Comment


              #7
              Holy Cow!! On the one hand, I always want my problems to be easy to fix. On the other hand, some are so easy that it is embarassing.

              One ground wire and it cranks great. Thank you. I will be riding this weekend after all.

              Comment


                #8
                Holy Cow!! On the one hand, I always want my problems to be easy to fix. On the other hand, some are so easy that it is embarrassing.
                I found this our the easy way. I was reassembling my side plate but got lazy with the solenoid by not bolting it down. No cranky?

                Anyway since nothing had changed it did not take too long to figure out.

                Pos

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