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Top end oilers Reasons Why

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    #1

    Top end oilers Reasons Why

    I ran across this thread at Gixxer.com. It explains what Top end oilers (TEO) are for as far as the benefit to valve train. There are other reasons that racers do it and you have to remember that different model have different reasons. For a street bike 16V motor, this is the only reason to use (I think) to use a TEO.

    If you only have a GS you can ignore all the other discussion as that is only for GSXR's that have 2 separate systems 1.) oil cooling system and 2.) oil lubrications system

    EDIT 11/7/10: Well this is a real tell. Long ago when I posted this link nobody even mentioned that the link was pointing to rotors information and not to top end oiler. I now have no idea how to find the link I thought I was posting about . And since nobody cared to even look then I'm not going to spend the next hour looking for it now.

    2nd Generation Rotor interchange
    http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=252769


    when running cams with a lot of lift and/or duration - heavy duty valve springs together with hardwelded rockers are often specified too. the uprated valve springs allow the rocker to follow the more aggresive profile on the replacement cams without bouncing at high RPM this is achived by the extra pressure that the uprated springs exerts on the follower - and hence the camshaft lobe also. all this extre pressure can quickly take its toll on normal rockers at the point where the camshaft runs - the pad. so for really hot cams the rockers are modified by having the their existing pad material ground off and then this surface is replaced by hard welding and results in a much harder surface - just like a standard rocker it wont last 5 minutes unless its effectively lubricated - top end kit provides this!
    Last edited by posplayr; 11-07-2010, 01:08 PM.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Good reason's too, but if you use bigger studs they will reduce the flow of oil to the head too, thus a top end oiler is the only way to go.
    1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
    1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
    1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
    1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
    01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
      Good reason's too, but if you use bigger studs they will reduce the flow of oil to the head too, thus a top end oiler is the only way to go.
      Jake,
      Yours is a good point, as there are some street guys putting in oversized head bolts. Thanks for your consideration as I was trying to limit this to the reasons for anybody with a street motor that was wondering why they would want a top end oiler.

      So maybe I should further qualify "street" as milding warmed over 16V motor (1166 10.25:1 with 0.340 lift cams for example). I think Bill is planning on warming his LED even more so maybe it is finally time for him to get a TEO. I think he is planning on 1150 studs. Bill U listening? We would not want you to



      As you know there are many other reasons that racers do it, but that is a whole different discussion that I know of , but am not qualified to expouse on.

      Jim
      Last edited by posplayr; 01-17-2010, 04:33 PM.

      Comment

        #4
        TOE????

        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
          Good reason's too, but if you use bigger studs they will reduce the flow of oil to the head too, thus a top end oiler is the only way to go.
          Jay from APE denounced this as an issue and he's usually spot on.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

          Comment

            #6
            Well my studs don't stay center in the holes plus if they walk over to one side of the hole, like maybe when being torqued down that could cause a problem but you'll never know ??

            Here's one of my studs blocking the oil passage in my 750 head. Not much space in there so why take a chance ?? You should see the 1166cc 13-1 piston's I stuff in that 22cc chamber not much room in there either.

            Last edited by RacingJake; 01-17-2010, 06:33 PM.
            1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
            1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
            1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
            1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
            01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by posplayr View Post
              Jake,
              Thanks for your consideration as I was trying to limit this to the reasons for anybody with a street motor that was wondering why they would want a top end oiler.
              Jim
              Maybe cool points ??
              1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
              1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
              1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
              1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
              01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

              Comment

                #8
                Jake, do you have a pic of that bike in you avatar posted anywhere? It looks interesting to me, and i'd like to see the rest of it.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by will61310 View Post
                  Jake, do you have a pic of that bike in you avatar posted anywhere? It looks interesting to me, and i'd like to see the rest of it.
                  Here a few with a few mod's along the way too. It may be ugly but it sure can move my 250 lb butt down the road!





                  Last edited by RacingJake; 01-17-2010, 10:26 PM.
                  1166cc 1/8 ET 6.09@111.88
                  1166cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.70@122.85
                  1395cc 1/8 ET 6.0051@114.39
                  1395cc on NOS, 1/8 ET 5.71@113.98 "With a broken wrist pin too"
                  01 Sporty 1/8 ET 7.70@92.28, 1/4 ET 12.03@111.82

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
                    Well my studs don't stay center in the holes plus if they walk over to one side of the hole, like maybe when being torqued down that could cause a problem but you'll never know ??

                    Here's one of my studs blocking the oil passage in my 750 head. Not much space in there so why take a chance ?? You should see the 1166cc 13-1 piston's I stuff in that 22cc chamber not much room in there either.


                    You made me a believer!
                    Ed

                    To measure is to know.

                    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by RacingJake View Post
                      Maybe cool points ??
                      Well Yeeaaaa!!! But that should have been obvious

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Top end oilers for Drag Racers: See discussion. Top end oilers have many reasons in drag racing sometimes conflicting. othing to do with this original thread for Mild Street.

                        Carolina top end oiler for GS
                        http://psychobike.com/forums/old-school-bikes/29942-carolina-top-end-oiler-gs.html

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I use them for all of my turbo GS`s due to the fact that I "DRY DECK" (no oil passages down the studs) the heads and cylinders so that is the ONLY way the oil gets up there.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I use them on ALL of my 16 valve motors because the cams & rockers NEED as much oil as you can get to them for durability. Ray.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              needed for a 1978 Gs1000 two valver??? used in my dragbike, stock cams until someone finds me a good set. thanks
                              matt

                              Comment

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