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81 GS650 tuning help Dynojet stage 3
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Gsnoob
81 GS650 tuning help Dynojet stage 3
Hey guys I have a Dynojet stage 3 kit on way for my 81 gs 650 just wondering if anyone has any recommendations to help my install and tuning go smooth as possible. Like where to start out on my air/fuel and how to use the clips that come in the kit things like that. ThanksTags: None
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Bribird
well, when I did mine...I chased my tail endlessly...would not recommend it.....although it is easier to get the carbs off when running pod filters. That kit comes with 2 jet sizes...I would use the smaller of the 2 sets and start out on the 2nd to lowest setting on the needle as far as the clip goes.
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Gsnoob
Bought a bike with chopped off open pipes and its never been rejetted guys chopped it and parked it cause he said it was to loud so im putting in the stage 3 and going to add some pods and next spring im doing a V&H 4-1, starting with the jets so i can atleats ride it witout buring my pistons or valves.
Originally posted by brveagle View Postwhat do you have done to your gs650 to warrant a stage 3 kit?
Not trying to come off as rude, just curious...
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Gsnoob
Okay so kit is here and just my Luck no install guide so i call dynojet "Oh I'm sorry it apears that modle kit doesnt come with a detailed install guide" Awesome lol guess they assume if your installing it in this old bike you prolly know what your doing lmfao, So couple questions kit comes with 155 and 160 main jets wich should i use and where are the mixture screw caps kit came with a drill bit and screw to remove caps however not sure where they are located, install looks pretty simple although im not entirly sure what to do with the glue and air corrector guy on phone told me glue was to install air corrector so any pointers would help. Now if i can get all the carb screws to come out without stripping will be all good. Can i replace the stupid phillips head screws on my float bowls with like an allen headed screw or is that not recommended. Well alot in this post so ill let the pros get to it thanks
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Bribird
Originally posted by Gsnoob View PostOkay so kit is here and just my Luck no install guide so i call dynojet "Oh I'm sorry it apears that modle kit doesnt come with a detailed install guide" Awesome lol guess they assume if your installing it in this old bike you prolly know what your doing lmfao, So couple questions kit comes with 155 and 160 main jets wich should i use and where are the mixture screw caps kit came with a drill bit and screw to remove caps however not sure where they are located, install looks pretty simple although im not entirly sure what to do with the glue and air corrector guy on phone told me glue was to install air corrector so any pointers would help. Now if i can get all the carb screws to come out without stripping will be all good. Can i replace the stupid phillips head screws on my float bowls with like an allen headed screw or is that not recommended. Well alot in this post so ill let the pros get to it thanks
hope this helps. good luck
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koolaid_kid
I would snag another instruction pdf off their site. They are very similar; this one is from a GS1100G: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3103.pdf
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Bribird
Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostI would snag another instruction pdf off their site. They are very similar; this one is from a GS1100G: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3103.pdf
ya..very true. The one for and 850 is pretty much dead on also.
gots to remember..the 650 is the red headed stepchild of the GS world...lol
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easy as pie
if you have ANY doubts at all PAY SOMEONE who knows
Basic Starting Point
155 mains
2 turns out on the mixture screws
middle notch on the needle- no washers
fresh gas and new NGK spark plugs
sync and lean idle drop all 4 cylinders when you warm it up.
get the best smoothest idle before you try to ride it
get back to us where the stumble is. Tuning it out takes a scientific method and accurate information gatheringSUZUKI , There is no substitute
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Gsnoob
Just curious you mention no washer on the new needle? The install sheets all say use the washer not doubting you just wondering what difference leaving it out makes I got everything installed lastngiht but got stuck on the awesome little c-clips holding the old needles in didint have a clip puller so borrowing one form shop today hope to finish tonight. Also sheets say remove float bowl tube if there is one what tube are they refering to? And yes i have doubts but I wanna learn myself how to tune this bike and cant find anyone local who will touch the bike so all on me also there is just something about saying yeah i did the work my self that makes you feel proud to be riding it. Unless of course i fck it up completly and then will be no riding but lets hope that doesnt happen lolOriginally posted by trippivot View Postif you have ANY doubts at all PAY SOMEONE who knows
Basic Starting Point
155 mains
2 turns out on the mixture screws
middle notch on the needle- no washers
fresh gas and new NGK spark plugs
sync and lean idle drop all 4 cylinders when you warm it up.
get the best smoothest idle before you try to ride it
get back to us where the stumble is. Tuning it out takes a scientific method and accurate information gathering
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Gsnoob
lol thanks for the links to the install guides so I must ask just cause i am as the name says a noob to the gs why is it the redheaded step child of the GS world lol.
Originally posted by Bribird View Postya..very true. The one for and 850 is pretty much dead on also.
gots to remember..the 650 is the red headed stepchild of the GS world...lol
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koolaid_kid
Most chain people went with either 550 or a 750 and most shafties went with the 850. Personally, I prefer the 650E for almost everything except the open road due to the difference in weight. Even the 650G is lighter. 50 pounds may not sound like a lot until you have been pushing it around all day.
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Gsnoob
K so update on the situation started with the 155s and clips on middle notch, couldnt get it to idle and didnt wanna run even with me throttling it tried adjusting mix couldnt get it, pulled it all back out put the 160s in with clip on 3rd notch down, finally she idles had to udjust the idle screw just a tad but it wouldnt idle right away, after the idle screw adjust she idles flawless, its late so will do some chops tomorrow, I could seem to accel rpms through low and mid smooth she had a bit of backfireing in the higher range any suggestions on how to correct that or why its doing it? Everything seems to be really close to good except that bit of backfire. Of course i wont know for sure till i do my chops but things are looking good so far.
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koolaid_kid
Have you synched the carbs yet? This must be done as soon as you get it running. BTW, the mains have absolutely nothing to do with idling. They only come into play after 1/2 throttle. I suggest the backfiring is either the points or an intake leak. Have you checked the the timing using a timing light yet? Or the static timing if that is the procedure for your bike?
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Gsnoob
Then im assuming it musta been changing the needle clips that allowed it to run, when you refer to the points what points do you refer to it most likely is intake leak if that can cause the back firing I didnt fully tighten things just wanted to see if it would start and idle, tonight after work ill go through and tighten the intake boots and everything else down, this will be my first time syncing carbs talos do i need a carb sync tool or can it be done without? Have not checked timing yet can jetting a carb throw the timming off cause im fairly sure timing was okay but i will check it, and thanks for the help as ive said alot of this is also a learning experience for me.
Originally posted by koolaid_kid View PostHave you synched the carbs yet? This must be done as soon as you get it running. BTW, the mains have absolutely nothing to do with idling. They only come into play after 1/2 throttle. I suggest the backfiring is either the points or an intake leak. Have you checked the the timing using a timing light yet? Or the static timing if that is the procedure for your bike?
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