Voltage at the switch, and then I'm disappointed.

[Guest]

I did fix my killswitch problem. Hooked it up, measured at the on/off switch and button completed the circuit. Sounds sweet, but I only heard myself say "damn." No starter spin, no click, nothing. But alas when I bridge the solenoid, the sound of the sweet starter motor turning is what I hear. I got so bothered and annoyed with measuring voltages everywhere I just came home (That and one of the holes for the oil filter screws is completely stripped of it's treads). I tried searching, there are many related instances but didn't sound the same or terribly described. So, forgive me for posting something that has (in all likelihood) been answered many times.

Basically:
-Fresh battery, fully charged.
-Killswitch and starter button complete the circuit, but nothing happens (no starter turning, no clicking, nothing)
-Voltage at the coils
-I do have the clutch safety switch bypassed (plugged the 2 wires from the main harness into eachother) but also tried it stock wired, nothing changed.

That leaves the power not getting to the starter to turn? Or maybe there's something in-between that I am missing.

There is some chance that I have something incorrectly wired, but I doubt it. I've been over and over that wiring diagram... If someone has a picture of their correctly wired 650 (or similar, as long as its decipherable) that would probably help me out considerably.

[tom203]

Good, you know your starter motor works when bridged/jumped. The little green/white wire on solenoid is the trigger wire-it gets power when starter button is pressed. Somewhere along path, this wire is disconnected- assuming you got connections right at right handlebar switch. You did get that nice colored wiring diagram at Basscliff's, right?
I'd bypass the clutch safety switch to rule it out now, and,forever.

[hjfisk]

Good, you know your starter motor works when bridged/jumped. The little green/white wire on solenoid is the trigger wire-it gets power when starter button is pressed. Somewhere along path, this wire is disconnected- assuming you got connections right at right handlebar switch. You did get that nice colored wiring diagram at Basscliff's, right?
I'd bypass the clutch safety switch to rule it out now, and,forever.

Or the solenoid is pooched. Check to see if you have power when you push the button on the y/g wire at solenoid. Make sure your clutch switch is still bypassed.

[trippivot]

safety interlock circuit.

simple solenoid test -- 12+volt signal via a 14 gauge jumper wire to the yellow/green wire off of the solenoid -- and the body of the suzuki solenoid has to be grounded. don't just cross the high tension contacts

next;
Start at the solenoid with a test light attached at the yellow/green wire and the other end to ground .

this is where you want to see the tester light up when you hit the button, but before that can happen there are 3 other switches to engage/bypass in proper matrix

trace yellow / green backward because in between the solenoid and starter button are the side stand switch -- the clutch switch --- and the neutral switch.

[Bonehead]

simple solenoid test -- 12+volt signal via a 14 gauge jumper wire to the yellow/green wire off of the solenoid -- and the body of the suzuki solenoid has to be grounded. don't just cross the high tension contacts

next;
Start at the solenoid with a test light attached at the yellow/green wire and the other end to ground .

this is where you want to see the tester light up when you hit the button, but before that can happen there are 3 other switches to engage/bypass in proper matrix

trace yellow / green backward because in between the solenoid and starter button are the side stand switch -- the clutch switch --- and the neutral switch.

So that may be a reason. My bike is on the centerstand, kickstand up. Would that stop the circuit from being completed? If its as simple as that it'd be kinda nice haha.

[Steve]

The side stand switch only turns on a light, it has NOTHING to do whether the bike starts or not.

There is a remote possiblity that you have two wires switched at the "kill" switch. There are two wires that have the same color, but one should have a red sleeve on it. The wires are orange with a white stripe. One of them comes from the IGNITION fuse to the "kill" switch, the other one is bridged to the starter switch, but also goes to power the coils and points or ignitor, whichever you have.

.

[LarryA_Texas]

Don't forget the clutch safety switch. It's been mentioned in previous posts on this thread but be sure you're not overlooking it. Not that it could be this easy but you might be able to complete the circuit just by pulling in the clutch. Side stand isn't in the loop.

One step at a time. check power to the ignition switch. Check power to the starter button. Press the start button and see if you bet power back through to the headlight...keep following power through each connection (kill switch, clutch, solenoid) until you find where there isn't a good connection.

[bccap]

Try one of the other cap nuts on the stud in question { oil filter } Those cap nuts are easily stripped.

[BigD_83]

Try one of the other cap nuts on the stud in question { oil filter } Those cap nuts are easily stripped.

I think Bonehead means the stud mounting threads on the engine side are stripped...

[bccap]

I think Bonehead means the stud mounting threads on the engine side are stripped...

I'm sure he does. I thought one of mine was too, until I tried one of the other cap nuts on it.

[BigD_83]

I'll let Bonehead pick it up, Garth, but I don't think you are imagining the problem as stated in the OP.

I could be wrong, but it is not the threads on the end of the stud where the acorn screws on that he is talking about, but the threading in the engine casing, where the studs mount. He's probably going to have to retap or get some sort of coil mount in there.

[bccap]

Ah....I see

[Bonehead]

The side stand switch only turns on a light, it has NOTHING to do whether the bike starts or not.

There is a remote possiblity that you have two wires switched at the "kill" switch. There are two wires that have the same color, but one should have a red sleeve on it. The wires are orange with a white stripe. One of them comes from the IGNITION fuse to the "kill" switch, the other one is bridged to the starter switch, but also goes to power the coils and points or ignitor, whichever you have.

.

Well, here is what my wires are from the switch:

Grn/yellow-Starter button
Orange/white#1- starter button
Solid Orange-Off/Run switch
White/Orange#2- Off/run switch

And here is how they are wired now:

Grn/yellow>Grn/yellow bullet (I hope I got this one right )
Orange/white#1 & #2> Orange/White #2(From the connector)
Solid Orange>Orange/White #1(from the connector)

I'll get a picture in the next couple of days of the wires connected to the main harness.

I'll let Bonehead pick it up, Garth, but I don't think you are imagining the problem as stated in the OP.

I could be wrong, but it is not the threads on the end of the stud where the acorn screws on that he is talking about, but the threading in the engine casing, where the studs mount. He's probably going to have to retap or get some sort of coil mount in there.

Yup, you got it. Realized it was leaking oil after I turned it over so that's something else I have to deal with

[enelson2047]

Start

Do they come from the head light? If not were do I find them. I have a Dyna S system with coils. The Orange & White go to the coils where do the other Orange and white go. 83 GS1100E

[enelson2047]

Start

Both orange & White or going to the coils. Wired together as one. 83 Gs1100E