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    first time starting since carb rebuild/cleaning

    i'm a person that checks. and then checks again.

    -carbs dipped, new o-rings
    -airbox resealed, new airbox boots to carb
    -bench sync done
    -pilot screws seated lightly, then backed out 2.5 turns
    -everything reinstalled

    i'm getting some extra fuel line tonight so i can run a longer line from the tank (will set on stool next to bike) for the first start up.

    this is where i get a little foggy. where does the highest idle method come in? right when i start it up? i also have my vacuum sync tool ready to use.

    i'm taking a look at this right now....just want to make sure i continue in the right order. thank you in advance.


    #2
    Do the vacuum sync first then adjust the idle mix. I start with the screws out 3 turns. Then turn them in 1 at a time (slowly and carefully) the engine speed will start to raise a little then it will start to slow down as you turn it in. You are looking for the highest speed possible then that is your adjustment. Use the idle speed adjustment knob and set the idle speed back to 1000 then move on to the next carb until they are all done. Check out this video

    http://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/how-to-size-your-pilot-jet-pilot-screw-explained/Click link above for blog post with more info.http://www.howtomotorcycl...


    He does a good job explaining it. That is a 1 cylinder bike but the adjustment is the same. Make sure you run a fan in front of your engine to keep it cool during the adjustment process. The plug chops are for checking fuel mixtures during specific operating conditions like idle, mid or high speed. It is usually used for dialing in jetting but it wouldn't hurt to check. Check out this video if you do the plug chops. It will help you with reading the plugs.

    Some Spark Plug Samples (Used) and how to tell just how well your Car or Trucks Engine is Performing
    Last edited by Guest; 04-29-2014, 05:07 PM.

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      #3
      Sounds like you are proceeding correctly... don't forget to plug the vacuum port on the carbs (put a screw in the end of the vacuum line to plug it off) when using an isolated tank set-up like you've described. Run the petcock on Prime & you won't need to run the vacuum line back to the petcock.

      For my carb syncing I use an old fuel tank I scavenged off a snow-blower I junked a few years ago. Bought a fuel shutoff valve at the hardware store in the lawn mower section & simply ran a length of fuel line from the tank to the carbs. That way you don't have to worry about dropping your MC tank by accident. Others here have modified various containers/jugs by drilling a hole through the screw cap, inserting a short piece of rigid tubing, then sealing around the tube with epoxy (you get the idea).

      Also, be sure to position a box fan in front of the engine to keep it cool while you tune the carbs. !!! VERY IMPORTANT STEP !!!

      Not sure there's a proper sequence of the idle setting vs. carb syncing. It's a little like the chicken & the egg game. The sync has to be good to set the idle correctly, and the idle has to be good to set the sync correctly.

      If you've done a good job with your bench sync, then set the idle screws using the highest RPM method, then sync it up. You may want to do the process a couple of times to be sure you got it right.

      BTW - those sync screws/lock nuts are a PITA to get exactly where you want them - the screw moves when you go to tighten the lock nut (don't over tighten the nuts)

      Make sure the bike is warmed up & off choke before adjusting.
      '85 GS550L - SOLD
      '85 GS550E - SOLD
      '82 GS650GL - SOLD
      '81 GS750L - SOLD
      '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
      '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
      '82 GS1100G - SOLD
      '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

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        #4
        Just picked up one of these off of Ebay. After seeing how they adjust, I didn't want to get super frustrated. $20 is worth that.




        Originally posted by hikermikem View Post
        BTW - those sync screws/lock nuts are a PITA to get exactly where you want them - the screw moves when you go to tighten the lock nut (don't over tighten the nuts)

        Thanks for the advice. I'll check out the youtube videos as well, jbthomp.

        Comment


          #5
          Hey that's cool. I was just thinking wouldn't it be cool to have a tool for that....

          Comment


            #6
            right? they also have this one, but don't say what carbs it fits.



            Originally posted by jbthomp View Post
            Hey that's cool. I was just thinking wouldn't it be cool to have a tool for that....

            Comment


              #7
              The first one you posted is the correct one, growler. I have used a friend's more than once. Works great.

              Comment


                #8
                great, good to know it's useful.

                Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                The first one you posted is the correct one, growler. I have used a friend's more than once. Works great.

                Comment


                  #9
                  2.5 turns out should get it running...adjust idle and synch the carbs ...

                  Steve showed me how he likes to use the vacuum gauges as an adjustment tool as well..the idea is that once the carb is running the best it can ...the vacuum will at the highest point as well...so leaving the gauge attached and the vac line plugged you can get a near perfect idle jet adjustment ....

                  try it by turning a screw in or out while you observe the vac gauges and see ...

                  If you need help ..let me know ...I am not far away ...

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by growler View Post
                    Just picked up one of these off of Ebay. After seeing how they adjust, I didn't want to get super frustrated. $20 is worth that.

                    That is a nice-enough tool (I kinda wish I had one ), but it will be "fun" trying to fit it on the center adjuster.



                    Originally posted by growler View Post
                    right? they also have this one, but don't say what carbs it fits.
                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-M...9ae8aa&vxp=mtr
                    That tool is for reaching under the VM carbs (1979 and older bikes) to adjust the fuel screw. You won't need it for your bike.

                    .
                    sigpic
                    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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                    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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                      #11
                      hah! i agree, i took a long socket extension just to see how i'd get at the adjusters, and it will be a small (hopefully) challenge to work around the frame.

                      Originally posted by Steve View Post
                      That is a nice-enough tool (I kinda wish I had one ), but it will be "fun" trying to fit it on the center adjuster.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ha Ha, shipping to me in Canada by Priority post $27.13. No thanks.
                        80 gs1100 16-v ported & polished, 1 mm oversize intake valves, 1150 carbs w/Dynojet stage 3, plus Bandit/gsxr upgrades

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                          #13
                          Wow, that is pricey shipping. It's that Priority Mail that is making it expensive. Don't trust 1st class?

                          Originally posted by nastyjones View Post
                          Ha Ha, shipping to me in Canada by Priority post $27.13. No thanks.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I just checked amazon.ca. They have the Motion Pro Tool for $23.10 but want $57 for shipping! WTF?

                            I ordered mine from amazon.com and had it shipped to detroitmailbox.com free. If you are close to the border there may be similar places you can ship to. Even a UPS store would work.

                            K

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                              #15
                              Well, the tool I paid priority shipping for didn't show up, so I didn't get too far on synching the carbs.

                              I did, however, start it up. Happy to report she started right away, and then the idle surged to 5000 rpm. Played with idle adjustment screw and got it warmed up to where it would idle at 1000 rpms steady. Put a big garage fan on it to keep things cool and breezy on the engine. Snapped the throttle a couple times and rpms surged again, sounding like the throttle was sticking. It definitely is, the grip doesn't snap back at all. Maybe new throttle cable? Or grease it?

                              The air mixture screws are set at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated. Right when I started to adjust them using the highest idle method, I thought I should check to make sure all the cylinders were firing, just because. Good thing I did, because cylinder #2's exhaust pipe wasn't nearly as hot as the other three. I could touch my finger to it when the bike was running. Pulled the plug, it was a little wet on tip. Wiped it down, reinstalled, ran it again, checked plug again, wet again. Could this be from my carbs not being synced yet? As soon as I get my darn tool I can do them.

                              Frustrated, so I took a break. At least it started right up.

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