Well...seeing that the can CLEARLY use the word "REPLENISHER" I would have to say its just a REFILL for the ORIGINAL STUFF in the gallon can. I fail to see your point.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
Let me see if I can CLERIFY. The point is, it's not the same Chem-Dip that you get in the gallon bucket at Wally World. It's the refill (Part Number 901) for the P/N 905 professional formula. It even says on the can that you can't mix it with the 996 Chem-Dip. The 905 formula is the "OLD" Berryman's that everyone has been saying is no longer available. It comes in a 5 gallon drum. The 901 "replenishment gallon can is used to top up a cleaning vat that's had evaporation loss. The 901/905 formula works much faster and better then the 996 that is commonly sold at most parts stores. It smells like liquid moth balls.
Edit: You can buy it at Wally World, but if you look at the link that Steve posted it's not the $18 gallon can but one of the other Berryman's options at the top of the screen that sells for $186 and comes in the 5 gallon bucket. I don't see the 1 gallon replenishment can (P/N 901) available through Walmart. See here: Berryman's Chem-Dip Professional from Wallmart
Edit: You can buy it at Wally World, but if you look at the link that Steve posted it's not the $18 gallon can but one of the other Berryman's options at the top of the screen that sells for $186 and comes in the 5 gallon bucket. I don't see the 1 gallon replenishment can (P/N 901) available through Walmart. See here: Berryman's Chem-Dip Professional from Wallmart
Last edited:
Steve
GS Whisperer
I have considered getting an ultrasonic cleaner.
I have seen several different formulae that were suggested.
What do you consider to be "the proper cleaning solution"? :-k
.
There are a number of commercially available solutions, but the one that I've used with great success is the Simple Green Pro HD. I've only found it available through Home Depot and it's purple, not green. I use it straight and it does an excellent job without dulling the aluminum parts.
Really, one of the concerns that's overlooked when using a sonic cleaner is the density of the fluid. You just don't want a fluid that's too thick or you wont get adequate cavitation. Of course you don't want to use anything that's flammable either.
Edit: Just to add to this, you want to consider what you're trying to clean and what contaminant is being removed. I use the HD Pro because it is designed to not damage metal and is also designed to be a degreaser. Both are applicable in the case of cleaning carbs.
Really, one of the concerns that's overlooked when using a sonic cleaner is the density of the fluid. You just don't want a fluid that's too thick or you wont get adequate cavitation. Of course you don't want to use anything that's flammable either.
Edit: Just to add to this, you want to consider what you're trying to clean and what contaminant is being removed. I use the HD Pro because it is designed to not damage metal and is also designed to be a degreaser. Both are applicable in the case of cleaning carbs.
Last edited:
M
motokid837
Guest
Okay, so I disassemble the carbs 100% and follow the guide on BikeCliffs website. I soak all 4 carbs as instructed. Will I then need to sync all of the carbs again? That is the only part that scares me.
anytime you take them apart you shoulkd go thru all the resyncing proceedures
Yes, you'll need to do a bench sync and then a vacuum sync. The bench sync will probably be close but the vacuum sync is a must. Don't be too concerned with doing the vacuum sync. If you have the right tool it's really a no brainer. I do recommend picking up the MotionPro adjustment tool. It makes doing the adjustment a simple process. What sync gauge set to use is up to you but I do have a Morgan Carbtune and it does work great. It's a little pricier then some but I felt it was a good investment and it's a breeze to use. You should pick up a set of brass vacuum adaptors as the ones that come with the Carbtune are junk. They do sell the brass adaptors separately.
If you manage to survive the carb dip (and this thread), the carb sync (first bench sync, then see link below) will be easy!
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/carb-balance.pdf
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/cbsaunders/gs/carb-balance.pdf
Steve
GS Whisperer
If the thought of synchronizing the carbs scares you, you might as well sell the bike now.
Why? Normal maintenance calls for valve adjustment checks every 3-4,000 miles. In the event you have to change any shims (it won't be every time), you will need to re-sync the carbs.
Yes, get used to doing a carb sync, it will happen more than once.
.
Why? Normal maintenance calls for valve adjustment checks every 3-4,000 miles. In the event you have to change any shims (it won't be every time), you will need to re-sync the carbs.
Yes, get used to doing a carb sync, it will happen more than once.
.
If the thought of synchronizing the carbs scares you, you might as well sell the bike now.
Why? Normal maintenance calls for valve adjustment checks every 3-4,000 miles. In the event you have to change any shims (it won't be every time), you will need to re-sync the carbs.
Yes, get used to doing a carb sync, it will happen more than once.
.
It's also really quick and easy once you figure it out. The hardest part is screwing in the connectors into the holes which Suzuki in their infinite wisdom placed on the underside of the carburetor boots.
I think that the hardest part of a carb synch is rigging up the fuel. The rest of it is cake.
Don't sweat it. You've just rebuilt the carbs... You've done the hard part. Everything from here on is a piece of cake.
M
motokid837
Guest
Thank you all. You guys definitely know your sh**. I'll let you know how everything goes and if I have more questions I'll return to this thread.
G
growler
Guest
amen to that. i had to sweet talk #2 to get that screw out to hook up the brass connector for the vacuum sync tool. weird angle, thankful i had my dad's angled socket tool.
G
growler
Guest
a few months ago, i had never worked on a set of carbs....ever. my advice is to read the tutorials. basscliff's site is your new bible. 
(and also some very key threads here - the "search" function on this site is very useful) when you are done reading them, read them a few more times. i had the tutorial up on my ipad (or print them out, etc) so i could follow along. maybe i was too prepared? but it was nice to have references there to look at when things got foggy.
also, replace all the o-rings. all of them. take the carbs fully apart. soak em and poke em. (tiny wire) clear all passages. when you think you got them all check again to be sure. take your time. you'll be thankful you didn't rush through it. replace any funky or stripped hardware. you'll thank yourself the next time you are doing maintenance.
i paid $400 bucks for my bike because the previous owner thought there was something majorly wrong with it. after doing the carb clean/rebuild and resealing the airbox, it runs dramatically different and better, and i haven't even finished synching the carbs yet. feel free to PM me with questions. i'd be happy to help you out.
definitely invest in a carb sync tool. i have the one with the 4 dials/gauges now, but i have my eye on that morgan carbtune. if you're gonna have bikes around, you'll always need a carb sync tool. it's a great purchase.
(and also some very key threads here - the "search" function on this site is very useful) when you are done reading them, read them a few more times. i had the tutorial up on my ipad (or print them out, etc) so i could follow along. maybe i was too prepared? but it was nice to have references there to look at when things got foggy.also, replace all the o-rings. all of them. take the carbs fully apart. soak em and poke em. (tiny wire) clear all passages. when you think you got them all check again to be sure. take your time. you'll be thankful you didn't rush through it. replace any funky or stripped hardware. you'll thank yourself the next time you are doing maintenance.
i paid $400 bucks for my bike because the previous owner thought there was something majorly wrong with it. after doing the carb clean/rebuild and resealing the airbox, it runs dramatically different and better, and i haven't even finished synching the carbs yet. feel free to PM me with questions. i'd be happy to help you out.
definitely invest in a carb sync tool. i have the one with the 4 dials/gauges now, but i have my eye on that morgan carbtune. if you're gonna have bikes around, you'll always need a carb sync tool.
it's a great purchase.
When I make up the connectors I make about eight different lengths, from an inch to about six. It helps get them in the #2 and #3 on the different engines.
I think I'm going to start drilling and tapping holes on the upper sides of the intake ports, right where you can stick the tube straight in. It's just too stupid trying to do it from underneath. What was Suzuki thinking with that?