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1150 cams in 1100

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G

Guest

Guest
sooo....i have these 1150 cams in my basement, and i'm considering throwing them in the 1100 es this winter. and, i have a couple questions. Bear in mind that this sort of mod is new to me.

-slotted cam sprockets: where are they available from?
-is there a good tutorial on either the swap or degreeing those cams?
-i am running bs36 carbs with pods and a yosh pipe on an otherwise stock 1100 engine, are any jetting changes necessary?
-top end oiler-recommended?
-ballpark estimate of performance gains?

i have done a quick initial search, but if anyone could point me in the direction of some good threads, (more than 8 posts...) that would be really helpful and appreciated!

thanks all!

greg
 
you need to degree the cams in to a certain lobe center or have a person do it for you.
this is very important and can result in bent valve's...lesser performance.
this is not learned overnight but can be done with a lot of patience.
you can slot your stock sprockets or purchase after market ones.
i have a set of(installed) never ran after markets for 50 shipped.
no carb tuning is necessary at this point.
set the cams around 105 I 105 E or 105 I 107 E lobe centers should get you close.
105/105 would be fine and where i would try 1st...not much magic when doing a stock motor but learning new things is always good.

added
top end oiler is not needed.
also you would gain HP by degreeing your stock cams so as far as how much gain on the swap and correct degreeing...3-4HP...maybe 5.
 
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I would defer to Blower but as a single data point my otherwise bone stock and EPA jetted 1981 gs750e needed a single step up in the main after I stuck an 82 1100 intake cam in. I also did the exhaust but those are the identical on the two bikes. There is a descent step up in lift going to the 1150 cams and depending upon how well you are gurrent jetted you could find your are even leaner. On the 750 I ended up with a hunting in part throttle that disappeared with the main jet step.
 
just use your stock sprockets and test it out -- it's peanuts , there might be 3 ~5 HP after fine tuning ,, no top end oiler needed it's overkill for this application except to the guy trying to sell it to you. start lifting 0.370" and farther get one. APE has everything you'll ever want for your GS engine. get a few sets of spark plugs that is how you know about jetting. EGT and AFR meters help jetting tweakers get specific.

you want a big gain in power start with RS 36 carbs or larger displacement and more compression


if you take it slow / I mean since this is new to you - take pictures of what the cams/sprockets look like at #1-4 TDC before removing anything..

remember that there are 2 different 1-4 TDC one will have the markings #1@ the head surface -#2 at top of ex sprocket and count 20 to get to #3 on the intake cam and the other TDC where the sprockets will not look right and not line up.

if you use slotted sprockets, the sprockets still line up with the crank markings like stock.

I spent about $80 total for a timing wheel and magnetic base and dial indicator. Also a TDC tool I made from a old spark plug and all thread thru the middle. used a piece of scrap metal from the shop fopr a base. you will need these 4 tools to do it your self -- ,, no wait a formula and a brain,, ok 6 tools .. nope, pencil and paper - 8 tools,, nope, one more, a calculator- 9 , no wait, a pointer and 19mm wrench ..... aawww man we're up to 11 tools just kidding around my coffee is kicking in.
 
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lol, that made me giggle. yeah, i have some time to get things figured out, not touching anything till the snow flies. i'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but i am a long way from the dumberest, so hopefully i can puzzle it out....oh, to live in dayton or socal or some such area flush with gs'ers. thanks for the responses guys!

greg
trippivot said:
just use your stock sprockets and test it out

if you take it slow / I mean since this is new to you - take pictures of what the cams/sprockets look like at #1-4 TDC before removing anything..

remember that there are 2 different 1-4 TDC one will have the markings #1@ the head surface -#2 at top of ex sprocket and count 20 to get to #3 on the intake cam and the other TDC where the sprockets will not look right and line up.

if you use slotted sprockets, the sprockets still line up with the crank markings like stock.

I spent about $80 total for a timing wheel and magnetic base and dial indicator. Also a TDC tool I made from a old spark plug and all thread thru the middle and the steel base with holes spaced for the GS head was a custom mod to scrap metal from the shop. you will need these 4 tools to do it your self -- and a formula and a brain ok 6 tools nope pencil and paper 8 tools nope one more a calculator 9 wait a pointer and 19mm wrench aawww man we're up to 11 ha ha it's easier than most think .
Click to expand...
 
changing cams and using stock sprockets is a waste...been there...done that.
bike went slower.............
 
JMHO Additional oil cooling just for EFE cams is a waste of money, I've run them in my 1170 kat for the last 15years with out a problem, in temps over 40degrees C.

The money would be better used for sprockets and dialling gear to tune them properly, or just get someone to dial them in and you won't have to touch them again.
 
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