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1229 Wiesco instructions

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
Slowly putting Kat back together. Had the stock cylinders bored, now putting rings on the new Wiseco pistons.

Instructions have a diagram showing the orientation of the rings, but they show a piston pin center line and right next to it show an arrow pointing to the front of the engine.

Obviously, the wrist pin end doesn't face the front of the engine.

The ring orientation (clock hand); show the the bottom oil ring @. 1:30, spacer @ 6, top oil ring @ 10:30, second ring @ 3:00, and top ring @ 9:00. 3:00 & 9:00 being in line with wrist pin.

Does that sound right? Just thought it was odd showing the wrist pin center line with the front of the engine next to it. Any advice or thoughts appreciated.
 
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As far as I know the idea is to space the end gaps evenly around the piston. Actual orientation of each ring doesn't matter that much.
 
They're in the jugs now, that was fun, until I realized after getting 2-3 pistons started in the bore, one of the guide dowels was missing. Off the block had to come again. Dowel was stuck in the other block, so I retrieved that and started over. No ring compressors either. What do you folks use?
 
What Terry said. Ask Posplayer how long it took me to do his when he came to my house.
Ray.
 
I know there is not a supreme law to gap spacing except not all lined up. I was taught one thing and read in a book something else and so on. secret engine building details bestowed by elders of the tribe. .

this works for me

I never put any of the gaps at 12 or 6 o'clock none of them - called the cylinder and piston thrust surface areas (aka X axis 12-6) (wristpin is Y axis 9-3) due to piston dwell and has a offset that rocks at top and bottom dead center when changing directions.


2-3 top ring gap away from the center chain galley-gaps at 10 and 2 o'clock. 1-4 top ring gap away from edge of engine and not where 2-3 gap is - so #1 is 4 oclock and #4 is at 8 oclock

second ring is 180degrees away from top gap.

and the triple oil rings are scattered 120 deg or 180 - as long as not at 12 and 6 - they are tricky to overlap and hang out so watch them the closest.

getting all 4 into the bore ? I do all 4 at once with a crank lock, some do it 2 at a time with vice grips on the studs.- there is a million ways and many special tools - just don't disturb your ring gap matrix. -this can take minutes or hours. and when you get it right you should feel proud because it is not easy.

but it matters to get it right so take the time and do it over if there is any question
 
Trippivot,

Unfortunately, my oil ring spacer is @ 6, but that's what the instructions showed to do. 1 & 2 rings are 180 degrees apart, not taking into consideration the cam chain tunnel on 2-3. I ended up using hard plastic faced diamond stones to push the rings in. I used some schedule 40 electrical conduit, cut in half and slotted for the connecting rod, to hold up piston 2-3.
 
Guys, this is NOT rocket science! Put the rings in so all the gaps are staggered at least 90 degrees from the one above or below it, NOT facing directly front or rear on a thrust surfaces, & put the block on. Here is something you may not even be aware of, the rings ROTATE when the engine is running & end up moving all over the place anyway!
Ray.
 
I'm aware the rings rotate a bit, but I don't want to fire up an oil blower if I can help lessen the chance. I haven't been near the pistons in almost 15 years.

How about we talk about heat cycles then.
 
10 minutes with a fan blowing on the motor with the idle at 2500. Shut it off & let it cool till cold. Re-torque the head & change the oil & filter. Take it out & beat it to within 2 inches of it's life. Rings will be seated after about 15-30 minutes of riding.
Ray.
 
Wow, that's it?

No 100 miles of varied throttle, change oil and filter, re torque and below 6000 rpm's for 500 miles?

This will be good then, so I can annoy the neighbors, who are suing us. Woohoo!
 
I put my engines together with the gaps in the same place every time and I do that for a purpose and when they come apart I'm going to tell you MY rings do not rotate in the groove.

all this talk about where to put the gaps -- How wide did you set your end gaps at? I hope you did not just take them out of package and install.

break in procedure? again- there are a million ways others tell others how to do it... main rule is= do not let it sit and idle at a steady rpm... I say just ride it and blip the throttle it a lot. - you'll feel it when she lets loose a little and revs quicker, accelerates quicker. - that is when I retorque the head nuts.


2 oil and filter changes in the first few hundred miles makes good sense.
 
I put my engines together with the gaps in the same place every time and I do that for a purpose and when they come apart I'm going to tell you MY rings do not rotate in the groove.

all this talk about where to put the gaps -- How wide did you set your end gaps at? I hope you did not just take them out of package and install.

break in procedure? again- there are a million ways others tell others how to do it... main rule is= do not let it sit and idle at a steady rpm... I say just ride it and blip the throttle it a lot. - you'll feel it when she lets loose a little and revs quicker, accelerates quicker. - that is when I retorque the head nuts.


2 oil and filter changes in the first few hundred miles makes good sense.

I took the block for a rebore, and gave him a piston and rings and mentioned checking the ring end gaps. He said it was fine, so I did nothing to them.
 
Here's a shot of the pistons. I spaced on ordering a stator cover gasket, so had to wait till today to install. Bike has been sitting and waiting for a week.


 
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