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1980 GS750L hotwire/turnover?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lucky
  • Start date Start date
L

Lucky

Guest
Let me just start out by saying this is my first time working on a bike. I just bought this thing for a killer price and i'm curious as to how i can check if it will turnover using the starter (starting it would just be a plus). Not sure if this sounds suspicious but i will gladly send loads of pictures with my username on the bike itself if that helps :)
 
Are you trying to start it or just turn the engine over? Is it to just see if the engine is frozen or the starter is good. There are two ways you can bypass the solenoid to turn the engine over. In a pinch you can start a bike with a bad solenoid by turning on the key and crossing the two posts on the top of the solenoid with a screw driver.

You can also remove the starter cover and access the hot lead post and jump the starter there, but if the cable is still attached you could accomplish the same thing at the solenoid.

If your looking to see if the engine is frozen or not, you can remove the point cover(small round cover on the lower right side of the engine held on by three screws). You can manually turn the engine by hand with a 19mm closed end wrench. Turn clockwise only.

BTW, expect sparks and a good chance of burning yourself by the current if your not careful. Make sure there is nothing flammable near by that could ignite from possible sparks.
 
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Well they key won't turn. I'm unsure if the lock mechanism is just stuck or if the key isn't the original (or too worn out to use). I ordered a new key and ignition but they will come in around a week or so (a bit impatient what can i say? :) ) Thanks for the help. I really just want to see if the engine is seized or not. If I remove the cover I would need to drain the oil first correct?
 
You can turn the engine over by hand. As you are sitting on the bike remove the small round cover on the right hand side of the engine, put a wrench on the large nut and turn the engine over clockwise.

V
 
Thanks for the help, just a bit new so I'd rather be sure what to do than just ruin the engine myself :suspicion:
 
Take off the points cover on the right side and use a 19MM on the big nut. NEVER go to the 12MM as it holds everything onto the crank. If you snap or strip the 12mm youre in a world of hurt.
 
Lucky said:
If I remove the cover I would need to drain the oil first correct?
Click to expand...

No need to completely drain the oil if its on the side stand when you pull the cover off of the right side. Only a small amount may come out, like a table spoon or so.
 
When was it last running??? If it hasnt ran in a year or so it my TRY to start but i doubt it will until the carbs are serviced. Bookmark this website and look on the right side and note the CV CARB REBUILD tutorial. Follow it to the letter.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

Get the oring kit here from our member Robert Barr. 1 kit does the full rack. When removing the float seats for the clean up DONT heavily grip and squeeze them with pliers. If they dont come out with a rather gentle grip and some twisting and pulling apply little heat and some oil to the bases. By a LITTLE, I mean get them reasonably warm but be mindful there are filter screens inside the holes that are held on with a plastic snap ring. get the seats too hot and you melt the rims of the screens.

oring kit here..

http://cycleorings.com/

If you wish to try and start it while waiting on the new igniton this is what you do.

1..remove the tank
2..cap off the vacuum port that goes to the petcock..this is the brass nipple at the back of carb 2. Carb 2 is the second one from the left if youre setting on the bike.
3..set up gravity feed tank and hook it to the big fuel line on the carbs.
4..make a wire lead that will reach from the positive terminal of the battery to the 2 hot wires from the coils that plug into the main harness. This makes the coils live regardless if there is a key or not.
5..short cross the two big nuts on top of the starter selinoid with screwdriver and it should crank. Since you have the coils powered up, there is fuel supply, and you can now crank it with the screwdriver you have met all the requirements for some combustion to tke plce.
 
chuck hahn said:
When removing the float seats for the clean up DONT heavily grip and squeeze them with pliers. If they dont come out with a rather gentle grip and some twisting and pulling apply little heat and some oil to the bases. By a LITTLE, I mean get them reasonably warm but be mindful there are filter screens inside the holes that are held on with a plastic snap ring. get the seats too hot and you melt the rims of the screens.
Click to expand...

Saw this on another forum and thought it was a clever trick:

IMG_3736.jpg


IMG_3737.JPG
 
Nice!! I have used an old screwdriver that I ground down like a wedge and got in betwen the carb body and the shoulder of the seat and riggled them out that way. Idea is to not squish the seat out of round at all.
 
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