1982 GS1100GLZ spark

[moehme]

Okay, I've decided it's time to ask for the advice of all fellow GS'ers.

I've got a 1982 GS1100GLZ that all of a sudden developed a spark problem. The number 2 cylinder has an extremely weak spark (can barely see it) and cylinders 1, 3 and 4 have no spark at all.

A few additional notes:
1) I can get it started (and it will stay running) if I keep it fully choked and have the throttle 1/2 to 3/4 open.
2) After it runs for a while, the exhaust off the number 2 cylinder is hot, all others are cold.
3) Over the winter months, I periodically (once a month or so) started it and ran it for a while to keep everything lubricated, etc.
4) Put new plugs in all four cylinders last summer.
5) Since I can get it started, am I safe to assume the battery is not the problem?
6) It seemed to run okay until about a month ago (been tryin to troubleshoot on my own since then with no luck).
7) If you suggest testing something, a step by step process would be helpful.

Anyone have any suggestions and/or possibilities as to the problem?

Thanks in advance

 

[Guest]

The battery might need charged or your igniter is fried.

 

[moehme]

Still more questions

Still more questions

Please help as it's becoming ever so obvious that I'm not a motorcycle mechanic (at least not in the electrical field).

Got out the Clymers this weekend and attempted to test a couple of the possible problems. The results are:
1) Full charge on new battery.
2) Checked for resistance on the signal generator. Clymers indicates I should have 140 - 200 ohms between either the blue and black wires or the green and yellow wires coming from the signal generator - I get nothing (0 ohms).
3) Tested the igniter. Using a 1.5 volt battery, connected positive and negative as indicated in Clymers, ignition is on - no spark in either plug.

In a nutshell, the signal generator sends a signal to the igniter, which relays the signal to the appropriate coil which sends a charge to the plugs, plug sparks, combustion in cylinder, engine runs, right - WRONG.

This leads me to my confusion. When testing the igniter, I wouldn't necessarily get a spark if the coils are bad would I?

Before I scrap the whole electrical system and spend what I'm sure will be BIG BUCKS for a new one, any more suggestions?

Also, if I opt for a new electrical system, what are my options? Replace with OEM, Dyna 2000 w/ coils (DDK3-2C), other?

Thanks again.

 

[82Shafty]

Zero ohms as in you have continuity or zero ohms as in infinitie or OL open lead?

If you can put it on the diode check and it and beeps then you probably have a shorted unit.

Ohm coils to ensure they are ok.

 

[moehme]

Hmmm

Hmmm

Didn't think of that - was using a digital ohmmeter.

Will try again tonight with a dial type ohmmeter - will let you know.

Thanks

 

[BassCliff]

Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Hi Mr. moehme,

I just stopped by to give you your mega-welcome! \\/

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures (not you, your bike)![FONT=Arial, sans-serif][/FONT]

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the In The Garage section via the GSR Homepage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some edited quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html
Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html
You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.
And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com
Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
***********************************
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting. It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years. It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

1. Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile O-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)
2. Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)
3. Valve clearances (more important than most people think)
4. Carb/airbox boots
5. Airbox sealing
6. Air filter sealing
7. Petcock (install a NEW one)
8. On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)
9. On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.
10. Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
***************************************
OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.
http://denniskirk.com - Put in your bike model and see what they have.
http://oldbikebarn.com - seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.
http://www.babbittsonline.com/ - Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.
http://bikebandit.com - Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.
http://flatoutmotorcycles.com - Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.
http://alpha-sports.com - Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc:

http://mcmaster.com - Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.
http://motorcycleseatcovers.com - Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.
http://newenough.com - You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************
Here are some extra links:

GSR Forum member Mr. duaneage has great used upgraded Honda regulator/rectifiers for our bikes. Send him a PM.
New electrical parts:
http://stores.ebay.com/RMSTATOR or http://www.rmstator.com/
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php
http://www.electrosport.com/
The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com
Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com
MR Cycles
http://www.mrcycles.com
Moto Grid
http://www.motogrid.com
If all else fails, try this:
http://www.used-motorcycle-parts.org/
Used bike buying checklists:
http://www.amadirectlink.com/roadride/Riderresc/checklist.asp
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
Lots of good info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org
http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)

 

[sloppydawg123]

Hey, you can check the coils pretty easily, the resistance between the two wires on the primary side should be 3-5ohms. Disconnest the plug boots, and the wires into the coil and check that, the resistance for the plug wires should be very like, not sure the exact number but i think somewhere around 33,000/33k is correct. Also check the fuse and connections, and make sure you are getting the full 12 volts to the choice, if you're getting 12 volts to them, and your resistances are in the correct range, coils should be fine. Than it's time to see if there is no pulse coming from the generator, or the ignition used it fried. If you get to the point and realize that the unit is fried, consider going to a dyna s ignition or something. Not too expensive, and are pretty worry free/maintenance free.

 

[doctorgonzo]

If you get to the point you discover it's the igniter and one from a gs1000 will swap, I have a serviceable one you can have for like 20 bucks and shipping. I replaced mine thinking it was bad, and it wasn't, so now I have two. As I have said before, this was before I knew about Dyna S.

 

[z1b900]

ground check

ground check

had similar probs on my gs1100glz,,would not even start,,it was a bad ground wire,,different grounds play different roles on the harness,,check all avenues before you spend a dime

 

[moehme]

Okay, I've decided it's time to ask for the advice of all fellow GS'ers.

I've got a 1982 GS1100GLZ that all of a sudden developed a spark problem. The number 2 cylinder has an extremely weak spark (can barely see it) and cylinders 1, 3 and 4 have no spark at all.

A few additional notes:
1) I can get it started (and it will stay running) if I keep it fully choked and have the throttle 1/2 to 3/4 open.
2) After it runs for a while, the exhaust off the number 2 cylinder is hot, all others are cold.
3) Over the winter months, I periodically (once a month or so) started it and ran it for a while to keep everything lubricated, etc.
4) Put new plugs in all four cylinders last summer. This was my problem !
5) Since I can get it started, am I safe to assume the battery is not the problem?
6) It seemed to run okay until about a month ago (been tryin to troubleshoot on my own since then with no luck).
7) If you suggest testing something, a step by step process would be helpful.

Anyone have any suggestions and/or possibilities as to the problem?

Thanks in advance

Couldn't believe it. Thought, what the heck, will try the easiest (cheapest) stuff first. Put in four new plugs - runs great! While I'm at it, I'm going to replace the spark plug caps this weekend and see if that makes any more difference. I've now learned never to immediately assume the worst (or most expensive). Thanks to all.

 

[moehme]

One more thing

One more thing

Bad plugs would also explain why I wasn't getting a spark when performing the igniter test (per Clymers instruction). Why the plugs went bad within 1 year, I don't know, but don't care. If it costs me $10 a year for new plugs to keep me on the road, I'll do it.