1983 GS1100GL no spark

[Dacls1]

Hi Guys, new to the forum and new to GS's. I've got a 1983 GS1100GL that was running and driving well. I tore the bike down to paint and restore a few things. It's now back together, but I now have no spark. The only change I made to the wiring harness is delete the side stand switch. Could this be the reason I'm not getting any spark now? Unfortunately I've lost track of the switch, so can't confirm if it is normally open or closed. I have tested for spark with the leads for the side stand switch twisted together and with them apart...same results. How exactly does the side stand switch work?

If my issue could not be the the side stand switch, any ideas for me? It seems pretty difficult to hook anything up wrong on these bikes, so I'm a bit lost.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you have.

 

[Redman]

Welcome to the Gsr.

only thing sidestand does on these 1980s GSs is light a light on the instrument panel.

the only actuall interlock is the clutch switch in the starterbutton to the solenoid circuit.

first thing to check for “no spark” is if have good voltage to the coils (.org/wht wire).

oh... wait... not suppose to give technical advice until we see picture of the bike.
(joking)

 

[tom203]

After you check for power at ignition coils , make sure your painting did not cause the ignitor to lose its ground connection.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/GS1100G_1982_wiring.jpg

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

......It seems pretty difficult to hook anything up wrong on these bikes, .......

Oh, you'd be surprised. As Dave mentioned, there is no side stand kill switch on any GS, unless a PO installed one. PO's (previous owners) are famous for their "creativity" when it comes to motorcycle wiring. The switch connected to the side stand is just to illuminate the idiot light on the instrument panel. (not at jab at you Dave, I've failed to notice it too). I would check voltages, in and out of the RUN/OFF Switch with the switch in each position. Clean every connector as you test and inspect. I can't remember if the clutch has to be pulled first to see voltage at the RUN/OFF switch or not. I know that Dave knows. He told me once and I forgot. Your wiring diagram should give a clue. That clutch kill switch can also become corroded/dirty and not pass voltage. If you need wiring diagrams and shop manual (who doesn't), they're available for free download at BikeCliff's Website, linked in my signature.

 

[Dacls1]

Thanks for the quick responses guys! I have checked voltages and all appears good. If the ignitor unit needs to be grounded through its case, that may be my problem. I do not recall a wire for it. I'll check that and make sure the case is grounded. I hope it's that simple! I'll let you know if that is the problem.

 

[Redman]

Thanks for pic.

to repeat/clairify:
sidestand switch is not at all in ignition circuit. It only lights a light on the instrument panel (that I, Dave, didn’t notice when did leave sidestand down and it caused me to crash).

clutch switch is in circuit between starter button and starter solenoid, so all it interupts is the starter solenood. So if the star button clicks the solenoid the clutch switch is either working or is bypassed(removed).

..... other comments.
thnks for picture.
looks like maybe not have stock instrument panel. But if you do and are wondering why the sidestand light doesn’t operate as you might expect when you were testing with the wires: in stock wiring the sidestand light also comes on with the oil pressure sensor/light.

i don’t have the direct experience to know if ignitor needs to be grounded thru case or not.

 

[Dacls1]

Redman, thanks for the clarification. I am running the stock gauges and do understand the function of the side stand switch now. Apparently grounding the ignitor case is not required, as I tried it and it made no difference. This weekend I will be going through things wire by wire to be sure there is noting I've overlooked.

 

[Redman]

Also:
-check battery voltage when cranking starter.
-Check voltage at coils (org.wht wire) when cranking starter.

In your rebuild, did you disconnect the thick ground wire to back of engine case?? Did you get it back? With a good clean connection?

 

[Dacls1]

Found the problem, my signal generator was bad. Strange because it ran when I disassembled it. It is now running, so on to carb tuning. Thanks for your help!

 

[Redman]

Good that you found the problem. Thanks for reporting back. (apparently you got a replacement)

I have seen the ohm check in the manual as a test of the signal generator. But I dont think I have a memory of anybody here ever finding one bad.

 

[Dacls1]

Yes, I got one a week ago on ebay, thinking that could be the only problem. I finally did the ohm test on mine and got no continuity. The one I got on ebay tested the same, so I thought I was just checking it wrong. Come to find out, the test instructions in my Clymer manual were not correct. I followed the instructions for an 850 and got results. Still however, mine tested bad. Replaced it and all is working now. Thanks again.

 

[steve murdoch]

Is that a Bandit front end?
I like the big brakes.

 

[Dacls1]

It's an old GSXR front end, I don't remember the year.