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#2 cylinder isn't firing

  • Thread starter Thread starter pjm204
  • Start date Start date
So it seems to be much better. It is now running on all four cylinders. It still has the popping when it is warming up but it starts easy and idles nicely. My guess is that it will be a constant battle to get the jetting perfectly with the pipe.

The one thing I didn't like is that he said the crank is definitely a little twisted. He said I would have never noticed and it will likely run forever like it is but it still made me a little nervous. I know replacing the crank with a welded one would be a lot of work. What do you guys think?
 
well I'm going to go out to the garage and see if I can tell if my crank is twisted.....if it is, how bad is it to ride it as is?
 
Bring the 1&4 cylinders to the top and put a wooden dowel rod in these two spark plug holes. They should measure the same to the top of spark plug hole. Repeat for 2&3.
Find out if it is to find your engines fate. :|
 
Well I am glad to disagree with my mechanic. I measured all 4 cylinders as described in the above post and they check out. I mean I only guarantee my measurement to be within a millimeter but I assume if it is twisted, it would be more than that.

So my bike runs on all 4, it does still pop a little bit on startup though it doesn't seem to be lean considering all 4 plugs are black? I attribute the plugs blackness with the fact it has probably only been ran on choke since being worked on. my guess is I have an airleak somewhere.

I am just happy that I am 99% sure the crank is not twisted....
However someday, likely next winter, I would like to take the bike down, powdercoat the frame, rebuild the motor(possibly big bore??), welded crank/clutch basket, etc. I've never rebuilt a motor and I bought this bike to learn and become a better mechanic.
Anyway, I'm hoping the weather clears a bit so I can put some miles on the bike.
 
Dude,
In the carb SUMP, is another jet!

Make sure that is clear, I bought a gs425 real cheap because of that -no one could've fixed it and took me awhile...

Well, if you have an "AFTERFIRE" that would be running rich.
If you have a "BACKFIRE" that would be running lean.

Afterfire=fuel burning AFTER combustion chamber (in exhaust).
Backfire=ignition burning fuel BACK in intake manifold-carb. (as not enough fuel reaching combustion chamber).

I would check the valve clearances on that cylinder. At the same time, check cam chain for proper "timing".
Also make sure your carbs' needles all have the same clip position, adjust ALL to suit your situation.
i.e. adj up to richer, down to lean.

Richer will give you more power but too rich will wash the oil off the cylinder walls causing shortened engine life, not to mention plug fouling.

Plug fouling could mean your spark plug wires are toast, esp if you replaced them with carbon core crap.
Also a clogged air cleaner...

A bent crank is a ridiculous "solution".
 
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