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2 QUESTIONS!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tarbash 27
  • Start date Start date
T

Tarbash 27

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I HAVE A 1979 GS750L. MY FRONT FORKS ARE EXTREMELY SOFT. I TAP THE FRONT BRAKES AND THE FRONT END DIVES TO THE GROUND. HOW TO I GO ABOUT MAKING THEM STIFFER? ALSO, I AM PRETTY SURE MY GEARING IS WAY OFF. BECASUE AT 65MPH IN 5TH, THE BIKE IS AT 5,500 RPM'S. WHAT IS THE CORRECT OR STOCK SPROCKET GEARING?
 
Don't know about the sprockets but there may be know hope for the springs. They may just be toast. You can try adding some PVC spacers on top of the springs with a fender washer between the spring and the PVC to try to get more preload. You'll just have to experiment with different lengths to see if it helps. If it takes more than a couple of inches the springs are definitely shot.
 
Re: 2 QUESTIONS!

Tarbash 27 said:
I HAVE A 1979 GS750L. MY FRONT FORKS ARE EXTREMELY SOFT. I TAP THE FRONT BRAKES AND THE FRONT END DIVES TO THE GROUND. HOW TO I GO ABOUT MAKING THEM STIFFER? ALSO, I AM PRETTY SURE MY GEARING IS WAY OFF. BECASUE AT 65MPH IN 5TH, THE BIKE IS AT 5,500 RPM'S. WHAT IS THE CORRECT OR STOCK SPROCKET GEARING?
Click to expand...

Could it be low oil and/or low air combined with soft springs? I don't have the experience to back this up but it seems like most any reasonable fork springs would bottom out pretty easy if there wasn't enough oil in the forks to dampen the momentum.

/\/\ac
 
Damping probably is part of the problem. An oil change would be a good idea to try first before playing with preload. 26 year old springs are most likely beyond service limits too.
 
SO MAYBE ITS LOW ON OIL? HOW WOULD I GO BY PUTTING IT IN AND HOW MUCH? I PULLED THE CAP OFF THE TOP OF THE SPRING AND THE SPRING POPPED OUT. IT WAS SO HARD TO GET THAT SPRING BACK IN AND GET THE NUT BACK ON. SO I THINK SPACERS IS OUT OF THE QUESTION.
 
ALSO, THERE IS NO SHRADER VALVE TO PUT AIR IN AND SOMEONE ELSE TOLD ME THEY DONT TAKE AIR. SO I AM GUESSING ITS ONLY OIL?
 
You'll have to get oil level info from someone with the same bike. You can get a fluid measure but that doesn't allow for oil that may still be in the fork. The best way is to get the measurement from the top of the fork tube. I'd pull each tube from the triple clamps and flush them with kerosene a few times. You would be surprised how nasty fork oil can get. This may sound dumb, but was the bike on the centerstand with the wheel elevated when you removed the cap?
 
I guess I should elaborate on flushing the forks. Pull them from the triple, remove the springs, add a cup or so of kerosene and replace the cap. Then pump the fork up and down through its stroke in an upright position about ten times. Remove the cap and invert the fork to drain. Do this several times until the kerosene comes out clean.
 
WELL, IT WAS ON THE CENTERSTAND IN THE DIRT, SO THE CENTERSTAND SANK A BIT. BUT THE WHEELS WERE STILL TOUCHING THE GROUND, BUT NOT WITH ITS FULL WEIGHT. HOW FAR UP DOES THE FLUID GO, DOES IT GO ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP OF THE FORK OR WHAT?
 
You add the oil with the springs removed to a certain heighth in the tubes. Usually about six or seven inches down from the top of the tube with the fork compressed.
 
OK, I'LL TRY IT OUT THIS WEEKEND. ALSO, THIS QUESTION SHOULD OF BE ASKED A WHILE AGO IN THE POST, WHAT TYPE OF FLUID DO I PUT IN THE FORKS?
 
Usually 10w oil. Fork oil isn't all that expensive and has seal swell in it in most cases to help the seals.
 
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