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78 gs1000 Needle Shimming

  • Thread starter Thread starter Caferob
  • Start date Start date
Other than that little decel pop she sounds sweet. Check under the tank especially if its been off recently for a wire that may have got nicked when reinstalling the tank. Could be where the wire is shorting and causing the fuses to blow. See what fuse blows and check the wire diagram for what all components are on that fuses circuitry too.
 
Posted before i read the timing ignition thread. Move the Dyna power led to one of the hot wires going to the coils. Problem done. The signal circuit isnt fused for that power draw.
 
chuck hahn said:
Posted before i read the timing ignition thread. Move the Dyna power led to one of the hot wires going to the coils. Problem done. The signal circuit isnt fused for that power draw.
Click to expand...

Completed! Just did that tonight. Ran kinda crappy but only had a bit of gas in the carbs. Im going to try with tank back on and everything back together.
 
I hope that you switched to another type of connector, Robert. The snap type that pokes holes in the insulation are not the correct thing to use.
 
I did. I re-wired it to the coil power wire. I tested it and it gives hi 11v output. just about 12v. I made a tap wire similar to the one provided with that R/R upgrade where it taps into the rear brake. it works! I dipped, flossed and cleaned the carbs with guitar string, cleaner dip. Added bigger mains this weekend. Trying out 132.5 mains where the 127.5's were'nt giving me enough on the top end.

Installed the carbs, tightened the valve cover bolts a little again, made a thin aluminum plate that blocks any access oil from the wiring and electrical system, added a small filter to the valve cover blow off tube, and test drove it.

The bike screams crazier than ever on full throttle, idle-3/4 throttle sucks ass. The needle setting is on the 3rd clip down from the top. Air screw 2 1/2 turns, fuel screw 1 turn out.
Ill set the needle clips to the very bottom setting (lifting the needle the most is can before shimming), and the air screw to 2 turns and fuel to 3/4 and see what happens.
 



 

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UPDATE: Over the weekend I got 132.5 mains and installed them after cleaning, dipping and flossing the carbs with guitar string. First test ride: idle-3/4 throttle sucked ass, WOT screamed like a bat out of hell. I pulled the carbs, moved the needle clip to the bottom position, lowest I can go which would esentially raise the needle as high as it can go before shimming, and went on my second test drive.

Second test: I timed the ignition with a timing light and my static timing was right on! Holy cow I finally dialed this thing in. For some reason I still leak some oil from the valve cover so thats my next step but the bike screams from idle to wide open throttle!
 
I'm glad that you worked through the problems, Robert. I've got a decent gauge set for carb synch in Tillamook. Its a little silver case hanging from the rafters in the garage. It looks like a pistol case.
 
850 Combat said:
I'm glad that you worked through the problems, Robert. I've got a decent gauge set for carb synch in Tillamook. Its a little silver case hanging from the rafters in the garage. It looks like a pistol case.
Click to expand...

Ive got a heavy leak out of the valve cover. Little drips, not that bad but while riding it just coats my boots!! I guess Ive got to remove the valve cover and take a look at resealing it. Remember i used that silicone crap? Maybe I might have to get a new gasket since I messed up that one.

Video coming tonight
 
You don't have to change the coils, the stock ones will work fine
 
kaufen said:
You don't have to change the coils, the stock ones will work fine
Click to expand...

I ended up using the stock coils. But im off to different problems now lol. The thread is posted in my last reply to this thread,
 
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