• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

81 GS1000G Dyna S Questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 455rocketv8
  • Start date Start date
4

455rocketv8

Guest
Hi Folks - Igniter bad on my 81 1000G - want to install the Dyna S - have read lots of threads - just trying to put it all together. Do I need to install a mechanical advance? If so, can these be purchased new? Suggestions please? Is the coil bypass necessary and anyone have details? I know there is a TON of info in the threads, just can't seem to get it all together on the electronic ignition bikes. Any help super appreciated ... I will document and share when I get it going. Trip in mid-September and running out of options :)

OK - More link following ... Dyna site says Mechanical Advance must be used as I have seen here on the forum. Is there a source for these or is it an ebay proposition? Thanks again.
 
Last edited:
Looking at the fiche told me what I thought was true,your 81 has a mechanical advance.Electronic advance didn't come to most Suzuki's till 83 and probably wasn't an all models thing then.Just make sure your advancer is in good condition and you should be golden.
 
As has been noted, you already have a mechanical advance. Problem you will run into is that the pickup coils must be aligned 180 degrees away from each other exactly and there are no timing marks, except the TDC mark for 2/3 cylinders on the advance as they were not intended to need timing. I suggest you make a mark on the exact opposite side of 1/4 F mark on the 2/3 side. I used a Dremmel with a cut off wheel after carefully marking the spot of the small cut with a marker.

You will wire the power from the Dyna S into any switched 12VDC source; perhaps the power wire that powers your coils. I would solder / shirnk wrap this juncture and not rely on the blue connector they give you. It is unreliable. I am not sure what you mean by coil bypass mod. If you mean running a relay direct from the battery (POS starter solenoid post) with power to the coils, that makes sense at this time. You don't have to but if your voltage feeding your coils is miserable, the bike won't run as well as it could with the coils fully powered.
 
Thank you ! Question please ... what sort of relay? Just in line direct from the battery ?
 
Thank you ! I assumed that electronic ignition meant no mechanical advance ... should have looked at my manual ...
 
Get a relay normally used for aux lights on a truck that uses a light bar. These can be had at an auto parts store. They come with a matching plug-in pigtail so you won't have to put connectors directly into pins on the relay.

Connect a 14 gauge wire from positive terminal on starter relay where the big red wire goes to your battery. Connect other end to #30 on relay. This is power in. You could also connect #30 to the extra hot lug on your stock fuse box (red wire) so it is fused OR use an inline fuse.

Connect #85 on relay to ground. Do not ground to battery box. Use the neg battery terminal or the ground on engine or frame. Make sure no paint is under the ground if you use the frame.

Connect the wire that currently powers your coils coming from the kill switch to the #86 on the relay. On my GSs, it has been Orange/White and rather hard to tell the colors due to fading and dirt but the other wires connected to your coils will definitely not be O/W. While it is convenient to just cut the O/W into the connector connected to the coils, I would wire direct to avoid voltage losses these old connectors often cause through resistance. If you do use it, clean the pins on the connector really well.

Connect the output of the relay to the input of the coils. Output will be on 87. I think it best to pull out the 87A as it isn't needed or if you get the pigtail suggested, pull the 87A wire out.

This will fix your coil voltage issues. I use 18 gauge wire for everything other than the power in to #30. If this info is elsewhere, I didn't purposely step on toes... just trying to answer a question. Good luck Oh, and one last thing... the mechanical advance needs to smoothly swing out its arms as rpms increase. The whole mechanical advance assembly is made out of rust so make sure it is cleaned and lube with dielectric grease. Don't stretch the springs which return the arms as rpms decrease if you clean the thing as they are not extension springs and can be ruined (I know this for a fact).
 
Last edited:
I'd get a new ignitor and keep the stock ignition. I might even have a spare ignitor laying around somewhere if you are in need. I think it's a nicer setup than the Dyna S.
 
Last edited:
Before you go cutting up your harness to install a relay, measure your voltage at the coils, compare it to battery voltage. If the difference is less than a volt, you will not gain enough with the relay to justify the hassle.

.
 
Thank you so much !! I ordered the ignition this morning - the detail on the relay is very much appreciated - worst case I would have just ran an on/off switch from the battery to the coils and tried to remember to turn it off :-) ... I will post as it comes together. Again - thank you ! Byron



geol said:
Get a relay normally used for aux lights on a truck that uses a light bar. These can be had at an auto parts store. They come with a matching plug-in pigtail so you won't have to put connectors directly into pins on the relay.

Connect a 14 gauge wire from positive terminal on starter relay where the big red wire goes to your battery. Connect other end to #30 on relay. This is power in. You could also connect #30 to the extra hot lug on your stock fuse box (red wire) so it is fused OR use an inline fuse.

Connect #85 on relay to ground. Do not ground to battery box. Use the neg battery terminal or the ground on engine or frame. Make sure no paint is under the ground if you use the frame.

Connect the wire that currently powers your coils coming from the kill switch to the #86 on the relay. On my GSs, it has been Orange/White and rather hard to tell the colors due to fading and dirt but the other wires connected to your coils will definitely not be O/W. While it is convenient to just cut the O/W into the connector connected to the coils, I would wire direct to avoid voltage losses these old connectors often cause through resistance. If you do use it, clean the pins on the connector really well.

Connect the output of the relay to the input of the coils. Output will be on 87. I think it best to pull out the 87A as it isn't needed or if you get the pigtail suggested, pull the 87A wire out.

This will fix your coil voltage issues. I use 18 gauge wire for everything other than the power in to #30. If this info is elsewhere, I didn't purposely step on toes... just trying to answer a question. Good luck Oh, and one last thing... the mechanical advance needs to smoothly swing out its arms as rpms increase. The whole mechanical advance assembly is made out of rust so make sure it is cleaned and lube with dielectric grease. Don't stretch the springs which return the arms as rpms decrease if you clean the thing as they are not extension springs and can be ruined (I know this for a fact).
Click to expand...
 
Thank you! I will check before moving forward. Appreciate your time and help. Byron


Steve said:
Before you go cutting up your harness to install a relay, measure your voltage at the coils, compare it to battery voltage. If the difference is less than a volt, you will not gain enough with the relay to justify the hassle.

.
Click to expand...
 
Thank you! I ordered the ignition - an opportunity to just "clean up" an older bike that has been sitting for a long time. Have installed the 775 regulator, now will have new coils/wires/ignition ... hoping this makes for a long term solution! Cheers - Byron

Nessism said:
I'd get a new ignitor and keep the stock ignition. I might even have a spare ignitor laying around somewhere if you are in need. I think it's a nicer setup than the Dyna S.
Click to expand...
 
May I ask one more question please ... wiring diagram shows 2 O/W coming from the kill switch ... one goes to the igniter and coils connect in to that. The other goes direct to fuse box. So when I disconnect the igniter, that one will be "open". So do I find the one that goes to the fuse box or the one that goes to the igniter? Thanks again.



geol said:
Get a relay normally used for aux lights on a truck that uses a light bar. These can be had at an auto parts store. They come with a matching plug-in pigtail so you won't have to put connectors directly into pins on the relay.

Connect a 14 gauge wire from positive terminal on starter relay where the big red wire goes to your battery. Connect other end to #30 on relay. This is power in. You could also connect #30 to the extra hot lug on your stock fuse box (red wire) so it is fused OR use an inline fuse.

Connect #85 on relay to ground. Do not ground to battery box. Use the neg battery terminal or the ground on engine or frame. Make sure no paint is under the ground if you use the frame.

Connect the wire that currently powers your coils coming from the kill switch to the #86 on the relay. On my GSs, it has been Orange/White and rather hard to tell the colors due to fading and dirt but the other wires connected to your coils will definitely not be O/W. While it is convenient to just cut the O/W into the connector connected to the coils, I would wire direct to avoid voltage losses these old connectors often cause through resistance. If you do use it, clean the pins on the connector really well.

Connect the output of the relay to the input of the coils. Output will be on 87. I think it best to pull out the 87A as it isn't needed or if you get the pigtail suggested, pull the 87A wire out.

This will fix your coil voltage issues. I use 18 gauge wire for everything other than the power in to #30. If this info is elsewhere, I didn't purposely step on toes... just trying to answer a question. Good luck Oh, and one last thing... the mechanical advance needs to smoothly swing out its arms as rpms increase. The whole mechanical advance assembly is made out of rust so make sure it is cleaned and lube with dielectric grease. Don't stretch the springs which return the arms as rpms decrease if you clean the thing as they are not extension springs and can be ruined (I know this for a fact).
Click to expand...
 
The O/W wire comes off your kill switch and goes directly to your igniter and coils via connectors. If you do the relay, just use the O/W that currently feeds your coils. It splits and one leg goes into the two pin connector for one coil and the the other leg the other coil. Your igniter or Dyna S, as the case may be is not as sensitive to voltage as the coils so you can either run the igniter (or Dyna S) from the relay or direct from the kill switch. In either case, the coils will be energized when the key is turned on and if you run a wire direct from the battery to coils with a switch, when you forget the first time and let the bike sit a few days, the coils continue to heat and may fry.

The relay and relay socket you need are pictured here:

http://www.wiringproducts.com/automotive-relays
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top