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82 GS1100EZ Charging at 15.63 Volts

  • Thread starter Thread starter Muser3
  • Start date Start date
Hi V

Hi V

Well it is back to overcharging. I think I'll just use the battery voltage as the sense and run the bike a while with a voltmeter attached and see what I get. I took the day off yesterday and enjoyed a nice long ride on the BMWR11RS. A totally different kind of ride. Lots of low end torque and high speed but a bit more vibration and a great suspension system. I did go after the harness with my dreml drill cleaning out the inside of the bullet connectors and then using crocus cloth on the male bullets. Greased them and reassembled. I also applied the grease to all the molded connectors and thet all went well. I had a couple of repairs to the harness to do so tha tis now done. I have replaced the tail bulb and the indicator light is still on, Something in the "little black box" is probably melted due to the high charging voltage which exceeded 16 volts. I have not checked voltages since the cleanup of the connections.
About winter, it was a bit early this year but it's good to have it over. I have a relay on hand in case it needs to be added to the R/R circuit. Thanks for your suggestions and help. I'll keep you posted. This whole thing might have been a lot less complicated had the rodents not been so fond of the insulation on the harness.
Lee
 
Hi V

Hi V

I think I will wire in a relay as follows: The pos. relay coil will be in the brake light circuit prior to the stop lamp. Its negative lead will be grounded. The relay will switch and the sense wire to the positive battery terminal. This should eliminate any leakage or low level drain problems with the R/R. Sound OK?
Thanks,
Lee
 
Muser3 said:
I think I will wire in a relay as follows: The pos. relay coil will be in the brake light circuit prior to the stop lamp. Its negative lead will be grounded. The relay will switch and the sense wire to the positive battery terminal. This should eliminate any leakage or low level drain problems with the R/R. Sound OK?
Thanks,
Lee
Click to expand...

The following quote was made by Martin Bakalorz in 10/07 in relation to wiring in a relay to the sense wire.

"The sense lead MUST be connected somewhere in the system. If not, the R/R can't tell what voltage the battery is getting. It would then either never charge, or overcharge (probably overcharge, but it depends on the system)
The relay does not handle much power, so the current rating on it does not matter. It does have to be rated for a coil voltage of 12 volts though.
The relay I describe below has 4 terminals: 2 coil terminals, and a normally open pair of contacts.
Some relays have 5 terminals: 2 coil terminals, common, a normally open contact, and a normally closed contact. For that type, you would ignore (leave disconnected) the normally closed contact, and use the other 4
Get the relay and touch every pair of points with an ohmeter, one pair will have a reading of somewhere between 10 and 10,000 ohms (probably around 200-400). This pair is the coil.
Connect either coil terminal to ground. Connect the other coil terminal to any point in the wiring harness that is switched on by the ignition switch, and is always on when the switch is on.
The other two terminals on the relay will now make contact any time the ignition switch is turned on.
Get an inline fuse and a ring terminal. The fuse handles less than an amp, so any value fuse from 1 to 10 amps is fine. The ring terminal goes directly on the battery positive terminal, and then is connected directly to the fuse. Make sure that all the wiring between the ring terminal and fuse is VERY well insulated, and protected from chafing or cutting. If this wire contacts anything it shouldn't, the bike will catch fire ...
The other end of the fuse goes to one of the remaining connections on the relay. The sense lead goes dircectly to the last connection on the relay.
Don't connect anything else to the line from the battery to the relay, or the relay to the sense lead. The whole point is to have the sense lead have a "pure" connection to the battery."

Cheers
Don
 
Hi V

Hi V

Ok, the relay is installed and I am happy to report that all is well. I did not ride tonite when I finished but at 4k the voltmeter shows 14.34 volts. I will take it out tomorrow for a ride and see what it really looks like on the road.
Thanks to all of you who offered help and suggestions, the job was not a burden. When so many people are helping it's more of an adventure than a chore. Thanks again,
Lee
 
Lee,
Congratulations.
Yah, now that I think of it, and see other folks comments, yup, there IS a reason to NOT connect the scence line directly to battery +.
Sound like you understand that all now.
Dave
 
Hi V

Hi V

Right, and I just happened to have a couple of old headlight relays from the 240Z days. We used 100watt H4's to try to get headlights that weren't so easy to outrun. Oh well, that's a whole different story. I'm eager to get in on the road this morning and see what it does.
Thanks again!
Lee
 
Hi Voltage

Hi Voltage

This will most likely be my final post on this thread. Once more I thank all of you whose input helped so much to find the solutions to the problem. Yesterday's long ride was just what I had hoped for. The highest my vm read was 14.00 volts and that was at about 5k. It is obvious that the system is working well. Now I will move on to other issues.
Lee
 
Last edited:
Hi Muser. If your voltmeter was reading 4VDC then you have still got issues.
 
Hi V

Hi V

Well alrightie then mate, it's all fixed now.
(guess I shoulda proof read that post huh?)
It's been fun!
Lee
 
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