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Adjusted valve lash now it seems noisy.

  • Thread starter Thread starter JEEPRUSTY
  • Start date Start date
J

JEEPRUSTY

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I finally got my bike running again.
During the downtime I set the valve lash to the specifications set out in the manual.

I put on a new coil today and started it but the valve train seems nosier.
Granted the valves were all on the tight size and I went to .004 but is was a bit of a shock.

I know it was all properly tightened so why the noise?
It sounds like a treadle sewing machine.
 
If it's making ALOT of noise, I'd pull the valve cover and check them again. :)
 
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Hey lyrical Jesse James...how about putting what bike you have in your signature too. :confused:

If it's making ALOT of noise, I'd pull the valve cover and check them again. :)

His bike is in his location.

A sewing machine is normal.
 
I will open it up again to check everything.
I did notice that two of the cam followers.
I think exhaust for 1 and 4, were "floppy" when the cam heel was facing them.
It was quite a gap but I dis follow the manual.

So does anyone else get this type of condition?
 
With forked rocker cam followers you should check both valves at the same time. That means you need two feeler gauges of the same thickness. Not sure this relates to noise but there you have it.;)
 
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Hi,

Make sure you are being consistant with your measurements, millimeters vs. inches. Since these are Japanese bikes I almost always use metric measurements and tools. That way I don't get confused. :P

Yes, a slappy valve is a happy valve. :)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Be damned if the thing has not quieted down with half an hour of running!
Strange.

Would a valve reseat itself or simply burn up if the lash was to tight?

Oh well time to flog it some more.
There is a German website with 4 OEM complete gasket sets for 90 euros so Off we go.
 
With forked rocker cam followers you should check both valves at the same time. That means you need two feeler gauges of the same thickness. Not sure this relates to noise but there you have it.;)
Oh really? Says who?
 
Oh really? Says who?

Says me!:D

Checking one valve at a time can result in twisting of the rocker within the running clearance of the pivot shaft and rocker bore. Honda published a service bulletin recommending the dual adjustment practice back when the V-4's were all eating up their cams. I don't think this practice is critical, but I recommend it (and use it myself).
 
There was little discernible wobble in the tappets. But it was there so One assumes that doing both at once is more accurate. I have long enough feeler gauges and did both adjusters at the same time.
It is a fiddley thing though. I always swear I will buy the cool motion pro tappet tool but never do.

One thing I would like to know is how long should it take Naptha or similar product to get past the rings with the combustion chamber flooded at BDC?

I realize that a liquid is easier to seal than a gas but would this be a good indicator of sealing health?

If there was a failure in the head gasket in the sections separating cylinders would that make things run terribly rich?
 
Says me!:D

Checking one valve at a time can result in twisting of the rocker within the running clearance of the pivot shaft and rocker bore. Honda published a service bulletin recommending the dual adjustment practice back when the V-4's were all eating up their cams. I don't think this practice is critical, but I recommend it (and use it myself).
That is one way to make an easy job a pain in the azz.
That was a Honda smokescreen to cover up the oiling flaws in the valve train of the early v fours.
 
That is one way to make an easy job a pain in the azz.
That was a Honda smokescreen to cover up the oiling flaws in the valve train of the early v fours.

I thought they had soft cams. A buddy of mine paid 1300 bucks to get his fixed.
 
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