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advise on removing cylinders if base gasket won't let go?

  • Thread starter Thread starter runewolf
  • Start date Start date
R

runewolf

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Hey guys, I'm almost done tearing down my engine to fix an oil leak and wanted to do it clear to the base gasket (I do not believe my leak was that low, but wanted to do it to be sure. I also wanted to clean my piston heads and look everything over. But I cannot pull the cylinders off, the base gasket is holding tight (honestly the gasket probably has not been replaced since the bike was built. I've tapped lightly with a rubber hammer to see if the seal would brake, but I do not know how hard I can actually hit it. The manual says to "Lightly lift the cylinders off the pistons" Yeah Right!

Ideas? Moral support? UPS me a bigger hammer?
 
That's what I have, looks like a 5lb sledge, but is entirely rubber... So just hit it harder? Or do I say it ain't broke, don't replace it lol?

Next question is if I don't remove the cylinders, can I still clean the carbon off the piston heads by moving them to the closest to the top of the cylinder walls? What can I use to remove the scrapped off carbon?

Sorry this is my first time dismantling an engine by myself.
 
I used a block of wood and a hammer to break mine loose.I just did all this to my 80 gs 1000.The cylinder block comes loose but not willingly.I had to smack it pretty hard with the block to get it loose.As you are coming up with it you need someone on the other side since it doesnt come up evenly off the studs.It also catches on the rear cam chain guide and binds up ther when it is about 4 inches up off the studs.Replacing the cylinder base gasket seems like a lot of trouble and it is.My base gasket looked in good shpae but the problem is you can make a little leak in the base gasket when you remove the head and then when you get it all back together you have a lower oil leak and have to do it all over.I can give you a lot of input as you go if you want me to.
 
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Ok, I was just afraid to hit it too hard. The guy I had do all this last year didn't go clear to the base gasket. So far everything looks pretty good, just wish I had a compression tester before I started taking it apart and then to do after. I gotta wait until next payday to get one :(
 
the majority of my recent work has been on 1100-1150,s but i have built a few 1000,s a lot of the old suzuki,s have a 'lifter lug' at the rear of the base of the barrels,if the rubber mallet dont do it-i use a piece of timber on the crankcases and a tyre iron,this breaks the seal using the lugs-then with the rubber mallet-aim your blows at the centre of the side of the barrel-where the fins are strongest.
cant remember if the thou,s had these lugs,but there well worth taking time and care over-as the two 1000,s i had were easily some of the best sounding 4 cylinder motors i ever rode.
 
Use a block of wood to spread out the force of the hammer blow.
 
A couple slightly harder whacks with the hammer and I got it off. Now to clean everything and get it back together tomorrow.

Thanks!
 
Funny you should ask this, i was facing the same situation about 3 hours ago when I opened the case so that I could get at an oil leak in the base gasket, only I am sure mine was in the base gasket.

Strike the engine where it looks to be strongest, I did this once about 3 months ago I think and I remember it being very difficult to get off so today I used a 5lb rubber mallet and I had no problems giving her, not a sign of any damage. The fins are strong enough that I don't imagine you are going to be able to hurt them; and like I said, I pulled back and let at it until the seals gave.
 
another useful trick is to thread some long spare bolts into the two 6mm bolt holes. use the back end of a claw hammer to yank up and smack into the bolt heads, shocking it wholly upwards.
 
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