• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Airbox Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter dieselhead
  • Start date Start date
D

dieselhead

Guest
Hey y'all, just pulled my airbox out and found the tube sticking out of the top (don't know the name) is pretty rusted. Is this a case of needing an entirely new airbox? Or can I make this one work w/ some cleaning?
The boots feel loose inside the airbox too (they can jiggle around now that it's pulled out), but I assume once everything is jammed back in there it creates the seal?
Either it was torn, or I tore it pulling the thing out, but my snorkel needs to be replaced as well it seems.
Tried to put up pictures but kept saying "upload failed." Please forgive my "newbie-ness."
 
I had an airbox who's breather hose broke, I just used some 'metal putty' for the lack of the proper word and it worked/looked fine. If your boots are turning pretty easily I'm guessing they are fairly hard in which case you might want to buy some new ones. They should seal tight and not be able to turn that easily.
 
Most of the air boxes i've seen are plastic and won't rust. If in doubt about the boots replace. Tears are not good.

You need to tell us what bike you have by placing it in your signiture. Do this by going to user cp in the upper left of your screen. Edit your signiture and list your bike.

Members download their photos to a site like photoucket. Copy the image code from the picture you want to post and paste it on a thread post.

cg
 
Thanks, Charlie G. I was trying to figure out how to do that...
 
Last edited:
Thanks, azr.
I've only been to Victoria once, but you have a gorgeous town. We rented scooters and rode all over it.
 
That's the crankcase breather tube. Mine was very rusty too. What I did was roll up some sandpaper (can't remember what grit, 200 or so?) and work it around in there for about 10 minutes. A good stiff wire brush of exactly the right diameter would work better, but I couldn't find such a thing locally. I then sprayed just a bit of rustoleum inside. Apart from that, I'm not sure there's anything else that can be done. I'm considering it yet another maintenance item that should be performed every few years.

Agree with azr and Charlie on the boots. If they're not perfectly pliable and squishy all the way around, they won't seal properly. New boots will sit snugly inside the holes.
 
I really appreciate your taking the time to comment, eil.
 
Last edited:
I don't think that tube is supposed to come out... it should be welded in there. the integrity of the airbox might be suspect in this case. What's the overall condition of the rest of the airbox? Remember that you can't have any leaks. Air must only enter via the snorkel (not sure if all models have one?) and only exit via the carb boots.

If you're sure the rest of the airbox is good, you could try the "metal putty" that azr mentioned. Perhaps JB Weld or regular epoxy would do as well. You shouldn't need anything with a ton of strength or high-temperature. Whatever will hold it in firmly and seal it up good will work.
 
Just saw the pic... wow, that's pretty bad!

Okay, doesn't look like that tube can be reused. If the rest of the airbox is okay, something that *might* be permissible is to just seal up the hole that it came out of and put a filter on the breather tube where it comes out of the engine. Something like this: http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...-1010+Universal+CrankCase+Vent&item=TU40-0376

Or you could get a longer breather hose and somehow putty/epoxy it directly into the airbox. (It can still be disconnected on the engine side.)

Or you could source a new airbox. I see one on eBay for a '78 750 for $40 shipped right now. That's not a bad price if it's in good shape. I think this airbox was common to a number of models, so there are probably others if you do the cross-referencing and searching.
 
It's pretty good, eil. However, the previous owner had installed the air filter and, I guess, removed the foam that makes the air cleaner snug against the lower housing (top of air filter, if that makes sense). Wish I'd taken a picture to explain this better. Anyway, basically the air filter had a 1/8 gap all the way around it. Who know how long it's been sucking unfiltered air in... Despite that, the bike has ran great for me other than needing a long time to warm up before it will even move.
Slowly but surely I'm making it a reliable machine!
 
I know the foam you're talking about... if you're not already aware, that can be easily replaced with weather stripping from any hardware store. Make sure it says "closed-cell" on the package.
 
AirBox IPB

AirBox IPB

dieselhead said:
http://i.imgur.com/TQlszdWh.jpg Here's a picture of the rust. I think I can still make it work. The rubber doesn't appear to be stiff or have cracks.
Click to expand...

There should be a proper seal on the top of your Airbox. My "T" has a plastic spout where the hose connects with a clip. In your picture, there doesn't appear to be a seal into the airbox except the metal spout and it looks like it's just dangling. You may need to buy the whole Airbox since the spout isn't listed as a part to purchase.

picture.php


picture.php


Here's where I found the IPB (Illustrated Parts Breakdown)
http://www.alpha-sports.com/Parts/SM78.htm


Ed
 
Eil, yup, found that guide. That will come after I figure out if this thing is even reusable!
 
Ed, thanks for your reply. My other question is about the boots. Mine are still pliable/squishy, (I don't see any cracks) yet I'm able to turn them 360?. Is that normal? On some it feels like there may be 1mm or so of free play when I pull at them in and out.
 
You should be good

You should be good

dieselhead said:
Ed, thanks for your reply. My other question is about the boots. Mine are still pliable/squishy, (I don't see any cracks) yet I'm able to turn them 360?. Is that normal? On some it feels like there may be 1mm or so of free play when I pull at them in and out.
Click to expand...

Yep, pliable/squishy is good for that side. As long as you get a nice seal when tightening the clamps, you should be ok.

I noticed the boots on the other side of the airbox (the ones going into the carbs) pulsate when my "T" is running. Since I swapped out my fuel petcock, my bike idles a lot better.

What I learned is: proper vacuum seal is REAL important.


Ed
 
Eil, ya know, I'm glad you mentioned "closed cell." In the Airbox mixup guide on Cliff's site the gentleman showed a picture of the "ACE Narrow gap rubber tape" he used which specifically says "open cell" on the package! Being that we want no air escaping, closed cell certainly makes a little more sense!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top