Thanks Dave, if the reverse SP socket doesn't fit I'll try your all-thread method. Just good to know that I shouldn't have to buy the special Suzuki Adapter "D" 09940-34561 @$20 to use for this one job.
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Any Tricks for Getting the Bottom Socket Cap Bolt loose on front Forks?
W
WingMan71
Guest
OK, so I went out and measured the "fitting" in the top of the damper rod.
It's actually a 12-point star! At it's widest, from peak-to-peak, it measures 16mm across.
The nut I found that fit is 12.8mm across the flats and 14.67mm across the peaks. Not sure if it's a metric nut or what. It's a loose fit, but it should bite good enough to keep the damper rod from spinning.
PS) The back of a 5/8" spark plug socket does not fit in the 12-point star fitting at all. At least not on the size damper rod in this little GN125.
See picture attached...
It's actually a 12-point star! At it's widest, from peak-to-peak, it measures 16mm across.
The nut I found that fit is 12.8mm across the flats and 14.67mm across the peaks. Not sure if it's a metric nut or what. It's a loose fit, but it should bite good enough to keep the damper rod from spinning.
PS) The back of a 5/8" spark plug socket does not fit in the 12-point star fitting at all. At least not on the size damper rod in this little GN125.
See picture attached...
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WingMan71
Guest
Hey Rich, I just took a look at that special tool. It actually has a tapered square tip. Clearly designed to fit more than one size damper rod.
I can also see other uses for that shape tip. I just may spring for the $18.00 and buy that thing.
See attached picture.
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Did find this other pic. Happens to have a portion the improvised tool there in very top part of pic (somewhat out of focus).
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I went old school. 19mm bolt welded into a 1/2? pipe nipple. Vice grips clamped on top to stop it from spinning. Sounds like your damper rod may be smaller though
In my experience it is a 19MM - which is VERY close to 3/4" ==
25.4 mm = 1 inch
25.4 X .75 (3/4") = 19.05MM
Convert Metric to Imperial and back by doing some math -- 25.4MM = 1 inch
G
Guest
Guest
I think it's a 14mm hex, some M10 nuts are this. But I seam to remember using a length off 12mm square bar to lock it.
So, I'm in the process of taking my forks apart, and putting the back end of a spark plug wrench didn't seat on anything inside the fork tube. I got lucky, and just like my manual says, using an air impact driver, I was able to remove the bolt from the bottom of the fork. Turns out the top of the fork cylider (#20) in the fiche pic is completely round (see second pic). So my question is, when I put the fork back together, how do I stop this part from spinning while trying to torque the bolt on the bottom of the fork?
S
standswithabeer
Guest
i usually install the fork springs and cap to maintain tension on the assembly while i tighten the lower bolt. i use loctite #242 as a sealer/assembly threadlocker. i was told years ago by a Loctite rep to use the lower end of the torque range when torquing fasteners held by loctite threadlocker products.
standswithabeer OK, that make sense. Ill try that when I'm ready. I haven't even ordered the new seals yet. Thank You.
Since the recess in the top of my damper rod is round and no hex shape of any size will lock into it, I ended up making my own tool similar to the Suzuki tool from a broken broom handle. Worked like a charm. Fork Seals done!
