• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

ARRRGGH Fork Seals! formerly known as Tire changing question

  • Thread starter Thread starter mrquadriga
  • Start date Start date
M

mrquadriga

Guest
I'm about to take off the front tire on my "80 1100L and nowhere in the manual does it say whether I leave the brake discs on or not when I bring it to the shop for a new tire. The shop is backed up right now but he'll "squeeze" me in right away this morning IF I bring just the front wheel in. This is my first time doing this so maybe it is a silly question to most. It's 0530 now and he opens at 0900 so a rapid response would be appreciated. Thanks.-Pete
 
Things were going great, got the tire off and to the shop. Took every thing off the Forks and took them off but I'm having a devil of a time with the hex nut on the bottom of each fork! The seals leak and I have new Factory seals and bushings ready to be installed but the hex nut just spins and spins and spins when I turn on it. The manual states you can do it without the tool but it looks like I need the tool anyway! I'm dealing with the "L" model forks so what the heck am I doing wrong? Do I really need the tool and if I do, could someone post a picture of what it looks like and where I can find one? It's the first time I've tried to do anything by myself and I was having a great time out in the garage. Please help.....Thanks Pete '80 1100L
 
There are two ways to get the hex nut out.

Option 1. Use the special tool inside the fork tube to hold the assembly while you loosen the nut at the bottom. You do not have this tool but the dealer does. Maybe they would break it loose for you. I doubt it without a service charge of 1 hour minimum.

Option 2. Use an air impact wrench with a 8mm socketed tool to take it out. The impact wrench is about 40.00 and the 3/8th drive 8 mm socket is around 5.00. It is also called a butterfly wrench because of the trigger design. The air wrench spins at about 5K rpm and it will back the bolt out because it spins so fast. THe springs MUST be installed to apply pressure on the assembly so that it can be taken off. The spring pressure is substantial and will provide enough friction to loosen the bolt. I have done this myself so I know this procedure works.

You may want to see what the dealer will charge if you bring in the forks and have them do it. If they don't have to break down the bike and deal with it in the way they might just charge you an hour labor change the seals. Takes about 45 minutes to replace them and you could handle the refilling of the oil yourself, further saving time in the shop.
 
Funnily enough I used this method not two hours ago

A cheap way to do it is to get a length of tubing and stick a 19mm bolt (thats 19mm across the flats of the head BTW) in one end of it with the head protruding. Drill through the tube bolt and place a split pin in the hole or some other method to stop the bolt spinning. Stick the end down the fork tube and you should be able to stop the assembly turning whilst you get the screw out the bottom of the fork.
 
Do you mean like a T-Handle type tool with the bolt on the bottom of it? thanks pete
 
holy cow, all this to change a leaking fork seal? I have my new seal but now am NOT looking forward to replacing it. 8O 8O 8O 8O
 
back_online said:
holy cow, all this to change a leaking fork seal? I have my new seal but now am NOT looking forward to replacing it. 8O 8O 8O 8O

It's not as bad as it sounds, basically you....

put the bike on the centre stand

prop the bike up off the front end

take the wheel off

drop a fork through the trees

drain the old fluid

remove the preload adjuster

remove the spring

undo the damper rod screw at the bottom of the forks

remove the dust cover

slide the stanchion out

remove the damper rod

remove the circlip over the old oil seal

prise off the old seal

clean everything up

fit the new seal


If you know anyone who works in the medical profession (or a vet) get a few large syringes off them they're great for precision measuring forkoil and are a clean way of doing things, and they normally throw away a load that have passed their use by dates.
 
Back
Top