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Attaching Pods to Carbs

  • Thread starter Thread starter Kyler
  • Start date Start date
K

Kyler

Guest
If this has been answered before, please post the link here. My search Fu is weak :(

I purchased APE pods for my '80 GS750 motor. Unlike my 77 motor, there are no ribs on the filter side of the carb to secure the pods. Worse the mouth of the carb is sloped so that when you tighten the clamp the pod squeezes off.

I'm guessing this isn't new and the collective has a solution.
 
If this has been answered before, please post the link here. My search Fu is weak :(

I purchased APE pods for my '80 GS750 motor. Unlike my 77 motor, there are no ribs on the filter side of the carb to secure the pods. Worse the mouth of the carb is sloped so that when you tighten the clamp the pod squeezes off.

I'm guessing this isn't new and the collective has a solution.

You need to fabricate a brace to hold up the carbs. With out the stock air box set up, there is nothing to support the carbs.
 
You need to fabricate a brace to hold up the carbs. With out the stock air box set up, there is nothing to support the carbs.

that is not his problem, the problem he has is keeping the pods secured on to the carbs. i do not know the solution but there must be somebody on here that has had the same problem and overcome it somehow.
they will be along soon to answer your dilemma........;)
 
The usual 'solution' is to keep the stock aribox, but I know that is not possible with your setup.

I have not noticed any "slope" to the edge of the carb mouths, and I have not heard of this problem before. Do you have the stock BS32SS carbs?

.
 
I had that problem. You have to make sure the clamps on the PODS are over the metal of the intakes of the carbs. If you are tightening the clamps down on rubber that is not supported on metal, the rubber will flex and just keep squirting off. I probably didn't describe that very well. Seat the rubber fully on the metal carb intakes and make sure your clamp is slid (some tense of the verb slide?) fully forward towards the carbs. You have to keep checking and be sure you clamp is not angled off kilter. I have an airbox now.
 
Hi,

And make sure the surfaces are very clean. If there is any oil the pods will slide right off as you tighten.



Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
thanks everybody - I'll roughen up the carb surfaces with sandpaper and triple check the rubber is clean. Might also add a dab of contact cement.

and ya, these are stock BS32SS carbs (now rebuilt and rejetted).
 
thanks everybody - I'll roughen up the carb surfaces with sandpaper and triple check the rubber is clean. Might also add a dab of contact cement.

and ya, these are stock BS32SS carbs (now rebuilt and rejetted).

just curious what size jets did you put in?
 
the larger of the stage 3 jets (a 130 I believe). This rig has a very custom 4-into-1 header and I won't finalize jetting until I get the bike back together and tested. Right now I'm doing all my prep work in the stock bike and then will move the motor to the sidecar and finalize jetting at the race track during test days.

The header goes across the front of the chair and exits just in front of the hack wheel.

33-IMG_5289-M.jpg
 
Turns out the sides of the carb mouth are indeed parallel.

P1060036-M.jpg


So I followed the excellent advice from BassCliff and thoroughly cleaned the rubber inside surface to the pod. I filed off the ridges on the carbs from the casting mold and then sanded the exterior of the carb mouth to get a nice rough surface.

and Voila!

P1060039-M.jpg


next step is to put them back here and get them reasonably adjusted so I can safely run the motor whilst plumbing for the external oil cooler.

P1060040-M.jpg


btw, here's the donor bike that I'll be parting out this spring.

PB200022-M.jpg


before you ask, that coffin looking thing in the background is my home-made beer cooler. Seems appropriate, no?
 
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Are you aware how rare your donor bike is?
That is a 1980 GS750L with a 16 valve engine and chain drive. One year model with the much faster 16 valve engine. Just thought you might want to know.
 
Are you aware how rare your donor bike is?
That is a 1980 GS750L with a 16 valve engine and chain drive. One year model with the much faster 16 valve engine. Just thought you might want to know.

Make me an offer and it is yours! Otherwise it is a replacement motor for my racing sidecar.

btw, I'm coming to Indy for the dealer show and visit with family. I'll even deliver!
 
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