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Bar swap - start button/on-off switch mount... not mounting

  • Thread starter Thread starter maro
  • Start date Start date
M

maro

Guest
The good news is I swapped out my G bars for Daytons. All cables seem to work fine afterword. A few tucks here and there and it worked out. I have to get used to the new lean (forward)... but feels better than stock.

The bad news is I was not able to re-mount the on/off - start button bracket/mount. That is to say, it does not close properly around the handle bars. It has two screws and when screwed back together... it doesn't fully close snug around the bar. The mount is on there tight...but something is wrong, there is a huge gap in the seem of the two sides on the mount. I guess I need to take a pic.

I know the throttle cable end cylinder came off the throttle grip when detaching, so I had to re-attach it when putting eveything back on the new daytona bars. I seemed to put eveything back okay..I took a ride and eveything was working (throttle).

What did I do wrong. does anyone have a schematic of this (inside of this throttle mounting bracket). My clymers does not so it would seem.
 
If you look at the bars you took off, you will likely find a hole where the switches used to mount. There is a tab inside the clamp that fits into the hole to keep it from moving around. What I have done to fix this is to drill a hole in your new bars. Where? It's easy to find out. Get some black spray paint, paint the area where the hole will end up. Sit on the bike, position the switch assembly where it should be, then rotate it a bit, then slide it along the bar. Remove the switch assembly, look at your painted area of the handlebar. There will be a nice cross-mark that you just scratched in the paint. Use a center punch, then drill your hole. When the hole is done, use some mineral spirits or just a Scotch-Brite pad to remove the relatively fresh paint.

.
 
To help the punch/drill grip you can wrap with a layer of masking tape first, helps a lot on round surfaces.

Dan
 
Nice Dan! never would have thought of that, but it makes sense.

I dont personally suggest this, Maro, but SOME people simply break the lil tab inside the switch off. You may need to wrap a layer of electrical tape around the bar under the switch to get it to NOT spin on ya tho...
 
thanks you guys. I just didn't notice the hole on my original bars. I'll drill that jawn tonight.
 
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