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Bearing replacement?

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdmfreak1992
  • Start date Start date
J

jdmfreak1992

Guest
Ok so the motor is an 82 GS650gl with 22k miles number 3 ring land broke so I pulled the motor and decided to rebuild it. I'm at the fork in the road where I need to decided if I should replace the mains and rod bearings or leave them. Today I plastigauged the mains and the clearance on all of them was between .051mm and .076mm only two were at .076 on the scale and the service limit is .080mm. I am still with in the limit but I'm leaning towards replacing them what do you guys think.

Thanks,
Taylor



 
Not that long ago I read a thread here where someone was in a similar position. They then priced the bearing set and were shocked at how obscenely expensive they were (I was shocked too!). I would say, price the bearing set and then make your decision.
 
Homie said:
Not that long ago I read a thread here where someone was in a similar position. They then priced the bearing set and were shocked at how obscenely expensive they were (I was shocked too!). I would say, price the bearing set and then make your decision.
Click to expand...

There not to bad right around 100 to do all of them. But if everyone thinks they are ok I'm gonna go ahead and just reassemble them.
 
I am sorry but I don't see a good bearing there. I would change those bearings out. I make all my bearing clearances .002'' or .050mm no more and no less .076mm is way to much clearance for my liking. Have you owned the bike since it was new so you know the mileage is correct. You should have placed the plasti gauge in the middle of the bearing where all the wear occurs on a bearing. You know on that shinny spot. Cleaning up the bearing with some 2000 grit wet/dry will help get an accurate measurement.

Here is what a bearing with 25,000 miles on it looks like and yes I changed them out.
 
One more question. Is there a reason you used such a small piece of plasti gauge? I cut a 1'' piece and lay it across the middle of the bearing from one side to the other so I get a nice even piece I don't get a fat spot in the middle of the plasti gauge.
 
Yea, I gotta go + 1 on replacing the bearings, you have it down this far, do it all, get it back to like new tolerances and forget about it for the next 80k or so.

Cheers :clap:
 
stetracer said:
One more question. Is there a reason you used such a small piece of plasti gauge? I cut a 1'' piece and lay it across the middle of the bearing from one side to the other so I get a nice even piece I don't get a fat spot in the middle of the plasti gauge.
Click to expand...


Sometimes part of the Plastigauge sticks to the crank and it ends up looking like this.
 
What about the rod bearings? On mine they were toast, yet the mains were quite good even after 60k km.
If you arent racing or redlining it all the time, I would leave be happy with those mains.
 
stetracer said:
One more question. Is there a reason you used such a small piece of plasti gauge? I cut a 1'' piece and lay it across the middle of the bearing from one side to the other so I get a nice even piece I don't get a fat spot in the middle of the plasti gauge.
Click to expand...

As quoted above plastiguage is stuck to the crank thats just some leftover from when I re-split the case. I'm gonna replace then their 140 for rods and mains rather do it right.

Also a quick question does anyone know what this piece goes to fell out before I could see what it was in.
 
That is the neutral pin, installs under the shift drum from the bottom of the cases, #18 in the fiche:
 
gearhead13 said:
That is the neutral pin, installs under the shift drum from the bottom of the cases, #18 in the fiche:
Click to expand...


Can't be that the neutral pin is much bigger and I already have it installed. Neutral pin on the left random pin on the right i have no clue what it goes to it has to be in the bottom end.

 
jdmfreak1992 said:
Can't be that the neutral pin is much bigger and I already have it installed. Neutral pin on the left random pin on the right i have no clue what it goes to it has to be in the bottom end.

Click to expand...
Ok, right my bad. The gear indicator pin that goes on the end of the shift drum, allows the on dash gear display. #37 in the fiche, hope you didnt lose the spring.
 
gearhead13 said:
That is the neutral pin, installs under the shift drum from the bottom of the cases, #18 in the fiche:
Click to expand...

Wow thanks so much! Thats it and I checked lucky me the spring was still in the drum. Don't know what I would do with out you guys.
 
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