• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Bike dying when using turn signals

  • Thread starter Thread starter mcquillr
  • Start date Start date
mcquillr said:
Shoot, is the image in the link not that big? That one was supposed to be a large version.
Click to expand...
It's my age/sight and size of monitor more than the diagram.. I hear there's a procedure to eliminate the headlight loop.. and I'm going to get around to that.. but now that I have the series R/R my electrical seems to be doing MUCH better. (also cleaning the fuse box and all the connectors from stem to stern might have helped a bit too)
 
The charging system is capable of putting out more than the bike needs.
The wiring diagram shows how the bike deals with that.
The blue/white phase is connected directly to the rectifier. Consider it always on.
The green/white leg heads off to the lighting switch, returning as a red white. This leg is active when the light switch is on. Makes sense, more load more demand.
The yellow is connected to a regulator which modulates the output voltage, preventing it going too high. You may see values as high as 15 Volts or more in the service literature of the time.
Consensus here is to replace the separate regulator and rectifier with a series r/r unit like the SH775. Send all three phases directly to the new r/r input and dispense with the loop to the lighting switch altogether. In my case those two wires are just hanging there by the airbox doing nothing.
Those old units are notoriously unreliable and only looking for an excuse to fry your stator.
 
Brendan W said:
The charging system is capable of putting out more than the bike needs.
The wiring diagram shows how the bike deals with that.
The blue/white phase is connected directly to the rectifier. Consider it always on.
The green/white leg heads off to the lighting switch, returning as a red white. This leg is active when the light switch is on. Makes sense, more load more demand.
The yellow is connected to a regulator which modulates the output voltage, preventing it going too high. You may see values as high as 15 Volts or more in the service literature of the time.
Consensus here is to replace the separate regulator and rectifier with a series r/r unit like the SH775. Send all three phases directly to the new r/r input and dispense with the loop to the lighting switch altogether. In my case those two wires are just hanging there by the airbox doing nothing.
Those old units are notoriously unreliable and only looking for an excuse to fry your stator.
Click to expand...

I agree this is a good plan! I have ordered the SH775. My bike doesn't actually have a headlight switch (US model I guess?). So I don't have to worry about closing that loop?

I'm just still unclear as to exactly how the regulator is modulating the output voltage. Everything you'll find explained on the internet is either a linear regulator or a zener diode regulator. Mine seems to involve a diode, thyrister and resistors?
 
Last edited:
mcquillr said:
I agree this is a good plan! I have ordered the SH775. My bike doesn't actually have a headlight switch (US model I guess?). So I don't have to worry about closing that loop?

I'm just still unclear as to exactly how the regulator is modulating the output voltage. Everything you'll find explained on the internet is either a linear regulator or a zener diode regulator. Mine seems to involve a diode, thyrister and resistors?
Click to expand...

Getting rid of that loop also stops the thing melting itself and taking out other bits of harness with it.
My understanding of the old school shunt regulator is that it just dumps the output to ground effectively letting the stator winding deal with the current.
There have been a few discussions here along the lines that shunt regulation is akin to an electrical oil heater. There were thermal images of at least one bike showing marked lower casing temperatures after fitting a series r/r.
How exactly the shunt works is above my pay grade but at a guess the system voltage is controlling the gate of a diode and when it hits the set point it just dumps current to ground.
I recall Jim, Posplayr saying that shunt would have been the choice at the time as devices with fast enough switching frequency either weren't or couldn't be built. That is not true now although afaik the SH775 will come up short on some higher revving applications.
How do I remember this stuff. Sad really :)
 
Thank you Brendan!

Yesterday, I was able to replace the stator and the R/R. It looks like the bike is charging but I need to do a more though test. I'll try and do that later today after work.
 
I don't know if this is correct but I thought it had been said that the loop was still in the harness on some of the newer bikes without the headlight shut off switch. If that is the case that is a long trip for one leg of the stator to make when you could eliminate it and run directly from stator to R/R like the other two legs
 
Just an update here to close the thread. I ended up replacing the stator (which showed some heat wear) and swapped my regulator and rectifier out with a combo R/R from Rick's motorsports. The bike seems to be properly charging and holding that charge.

For now, problem solved. Thank you for all your help!
 
mcquillr said:
Just an update here to close the thread. I ended up replacing the stator (which showed some heat wear) and swapped my regulator and rectifier out with a combo R/R from Rick's motorsports. The bike seems to be properly charging and holding that charge.

For now, problem solved. Thank you for all your help!
Click to expand...

Uhg! ........................
 
Might be charging nicely now but the same thing is looming down the road that caused your last stator to fry. Best be cleaning the heck out of all connectors, plugs and switches to delay the inevitable. Shunt R/R's are not forgiving at all, by design Series are. I was able to run a damaged stator for a year with a Series R/R before it finally gave up. Wouldn't have lasted five weeks with a Shunt R/R.
 
tom203 said:
By "Uhg" , he means you neglected to read the stuff about series vs. shunt r/r's...
Click to expand...

I did read all the stuff actually and I get why series is better than shunt. I even purchased a used SH775, but I'm still not 100% clear on how to wire it up. I also probably need a connector kit.
 
mcquillr said:
I did read all the stuff actually and I get why series is better than shunt. I even purchased a used SH775, but I'm still not 100% clear on how to wire it up. I also probably need a connector kit.
Click to expand...

Simples. Three phase wires in. Pos and neg to harness bus and single point gnd.
Piece of cake :)
Not being flippant. What is unclear about wiring it in?
 
Get the triumph harness follow these instructions (they are for an 850) but very much the same

Cut off the two small plugs then carefully split the harness so you have one plug with two brown and two black wires twist the Browns together likewise with the blacks so you now have a plug with one brown and one black so to speak.
The brown connects to the red wire in the bikes harness where the original rectifier/regulator red connected to, know as the T connection on various posts on here.
The black connects to the single point ground see many posts on here or just use the search facility for information.
The three blacks on the other plug connect to the three wires that come from the stator it does not matter which wire connects to which ( there is no polarity)
All joints where twisted together soldered and shrink wrapped.
The two left over wires in the bikes harness can be taped up and tucked away as they were for the handle bar loop and are not in use.

 
Thanks fastbysuzuki! I got the correct harness and this setup makes sense. Unfortunately, the SH775 I bought on eBay dosen?t seem to be working properly. I ran a diode test on the R/R using a voltmeter and didn?t see any voltage from the forward bias.

I guess I need to find another R/R :(
 
mcquillr said:
Thanks fastbysuzuki! I got the correct harness and this setup makes sense. Unfortunately, the SH775 I bought on eBay dosen’t seem to be working properly. I ran a diode test on the R/R using a voltmeter and didn’t see any voltage from the forward bias.

I guess I need to find another R/R :(
Click to expand...
the diode test only works on the old shunt r/r s ; stick It in.
 
I just put the SH775 in tonight. All levels test out and all my lights are much brighter than before. Definitely a good move! Thanks guys!
 
mcquillr said:
I just put the SH775 in tonight. All levels test out and all my lights are much brighter than before. Definitely a good move! Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

I think it's fair to say that we put up with a lot of sub standard performance because we have no idea of how good things could be.
 
Definitely true! I don't think my bike has ever run as good as it does now and a few years back I was commuting on it daily.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
1980 GS450 Idles but will not rev when warm
Replies
0
Views
56
TaosBrick
T
S
Bike randomly died while riding.
2
Replies
28
Views
590
stossboss_gaming_and_news
S
cdahl383
GS300L starts and idles but bogs with throttle
Replies
17
Views
315
salty_monk
salty_monk
L
Hanging Idle (I know, but bear with me) and different carbs
2
Replies
20
Views
386
dgates1
dgates1
J
Bike Idling With My Fuel Mixture Screws All The Way In
Replies
6
Views
232
DimitriT
DimitriT
Back
Top