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Cam chain tensioner question

  • Thread starter Thread starter mark
  • Start date Start date
M

mark

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Just rebuilt the cam chain tensioner on my 850. Here's the question. Now that everything is back together, the thing you can twist with the outside spring on it doesn't move as freely as it did before the rebuild. You can twist it, but to get it to move you have to "pop" it free with a little pressure, (not much at all), then its fine. Before it turned with no resistance at all.

Once twisted it snaps back to its orginal position with no problem.

Do I have a problem or a potential one? Anything else to watch out for here?
 
Can't say if it may cause any problem, but something isn't right. Like you, I've never seen one that you needed to "pop" loose. If mine, I'd sure try to find out what's changed during the rebuild.
 
When you say you rebuilt the cam chain tensioner what did you do? Replace the seals?
I had both mine to peices as they were leaking oil. The knurled nut and spring side has a small ball bearing at the bottom which locates into the shaft which tensions the cam chain. If that is not lined up it need a little tap to free it. The other one I found was that the locking screw and nut were catching the shaft while made the tensioner sluggish to respond.
Have you got enough tension on the spring?
Unlock the locking screw and nut, allow the tensioner bolt to slide out a little way the using you thumb and finger to keep pressure on the tensioner turn the outer knurled nob. If it's all line up right the tensioner bolt will retract. If it doesn't then that's the problem.

Suzuki mad
It's warmed up, now its too wet to ride.
1981 GS1000E
1983 GSX1100ESD in a lot of bits.
 
I'd PM Brian (BWRINGER) regarding questions about the cam chain tensioner. He is an expert on the subject.
 
Not an expert -- I just took pictures!

http://bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

Anyway, the only thing that really comes to mind is that if the pushrod (the thingy with the spring that goes inside the engine) is in the "out" position, the angled ramps (inside the large spring) on the adjuster shaft can contact each other and kind of jam into place.

Otherwise, you might have a bent adjuster shaft. Or the new seal is a little stiff.
 
This may be a little late, I've been out of town with no internet.

Here's how to service the tensioner.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
 
Billy Ricks said:
This may be a little late, I've been out of town with no internet.

Here's how to service the tensioner.

With the tensioner removed from the cylinder block loosen the lock nut on the left side of the tensioner and back the slotted bolt out ? turn. Turn the knob on the right side of the tensioner, which in the Suzuki service manual is called a lock shaft handle, counterclock-wise. As you are turning the knob counterclock-wise push the pushrod all the way back. Keep turning the knob until it refuses to turn any further.

With the pushrod still pushed in as far as it will go tighten the slotted bolt so that the pushrod will not plunge out.

Remount the tensioner to the cylinder block. If the tensioner is not going in turn the crankshaft clockwise slowly to get slack in the cam chain on the intake side of the block.

Loosen the slotted bolt ? turn allowing the pushrod to advance towards the cam chain. Tighten the lock nut but leave the slotted bolt loose by that ? turn.

While turning the knob counterclock-wise, slowly rotate the crankshaft in reverse direction, counterclock-wise. This causes the chain to push the pushrod back.

Release the knob and slowly turn the crankshaft in the normal direction, clockwise. You should see the knob rotate as the chain becomes progressively tighter. If it does the pushrod is obviously moving forward under spring pressure signifying the tensioner is in good operable condition. If it moves sluggishly or not at all that means the pushrod or the slotted bolt is sticking. If so remove the tensioner from the block again and inspect the pushrod. It could need cleaning or could be bent or galled. Further crank rotation will take the slack out of the cam chain.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. Tried it yesterday. Took the tensioner off, apart, put it back together and tested as described here. Worked great. I'm back in business.
 
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