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cam chain tensioner

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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1978 GS550. I took the 2 bolts out holding the tensioner on, pulled it out and dropped whole thing in a bucket of Kerosene. Is this adaquate for cleaning and getting it to work again or do I have to do more dismantling.
I'm not lazy but I don't want to just create work. I also don't want to have to take this out again.

Thanks

Rgierer
 
the bike has been sitting since 1990. I heard a lot of noise from the engine when start/run. I have doner carbs and was going back to do maqifold o-rings. The unit now appears free and parts seem to maove about appropriately.

RG
 
Kerosene is a great cleaner. Pull it out and scrub it with a toothbrush, then disassmeble it and see how the seals are. New seals if you need em and a new gasket and you are good to go.
 
rgierer said:
the bike has been sitting since 1990. I heard a lot of noise from the engine when start/run. I have doner carbs and was going back to do maqifold o-rings. The unit now appears free and parts seem to maove about appropriately.

RG
Click to expand...
You may be interested in the topic "A photo as promised" in the GS owners section. He has a tensioner problem.
I've never tried cleaning the tensioner as you did. Hope it works for you.
 
well either my process did not work or that noisy sound in the engine isn't from the cam chain tensioner.

I did have the benefit of gas pouring out of my number three carb so I have more than one reason to pull the carbs off yet another time.

At least it gets easier with practice.

FYI The approach of using the chisel to break loose the phillips head screws on the boots was much less hassle than the impact wrench.

The use of dish soap on the carbs, boots and airbox was less hassle than silicone lubricant and seems to have worked better or at least as well.

I am sure I read the piece about soaking the cam chain tensioner in kerosene on this post also but the jury is still out on that one.

Thanks for all the help

rgierer
 
rgierer, is your tensioner operating smoothly and under GOOD tension from the outer spring over the entire "7:00 to 5:00" range as discussed in the other topic? Are you sure the set screw has been adjusted out correctly?
 
I'll take another look at it over the week end. After soaking it it was clearly moving freely and was resonding to the turning of the spring. I will adjust the spring to the 5 oclock to 7 oclock and see what I get. Is there anything inside the engine the tensioner connectsa to that may need release?

RG
 
rgierer said:
I'll take another look at it over the week end. After soaking it it was clearly moving freely and was resonding to the turning of the spring. I will adjust the spring to the 5 oclock to 7 oclock and see what I get. Is there anything inside the engine the tensioner connectsa to that may need release?

RG
Click to expand...
Regarding the location of the spring end/hole in the knurled knob. If yours is similar to mine, release the set screw and push the rod all the way in with your palm as you turn the knob back (c-c-w) all the way. It should now be at about 7:00. As you slowly release the rod, the knurled knob should then advance under good spring pressure to the end of its range, which is about 5:00. If it's weak and stops rotating the knurled knob forward earlier, such as 2:00, the small ball bearing won't exert pressure at the end of the rod. So the pushrod can back off and cause noise. During assembly, be sure to match the lock screw to the long curved groove on the pushrod. Push the rod all the way in and tighten the set screw. After the tensioner is mounted, the manual says back off the set screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten the holder nut. Then check for smooth operation of the tensioner while cranking the engine with a wrench.
Regarding your last question, when you install the tensioner, back out the set screw, and release the pushrod, the pushrod end goes into an indentation in the cam chain guide.
 
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