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Can someone explain how to get my carbs re-installed?

  • Thread starter Thread starter oneliterbeater
  • Start date Start date
O

oneliterbeater

Guest
I spent a few hours searching here, but I haven't found what I really need. :(

Bike is the 79 1000L. My gf's dad came over to help me take them out, but as I was running an errand, he got them out for me. I appreciated the help, but I didn't get to see how he fanaggled it out, so now I don't know how to get them back in. He had back surgery, so he can't help me right now.

I've gotten the rack into the frame between the intake boots and the airbox tipped forward and back, but I'll be damned if I can get them the rest of the way in.
 
Connect the throttle & choke cables before you push the carbs into place - it's a bunch easier to get at them up while the carb rack is out.

Spray a little silicone in the boot ID - it will help the carbs slip into them easier. You essentially have to muscle them into the boots - I get the intake side in first (clamp 'em), then push the airbox boots on next.

If the boots are all old & hard (and cracked) it would be best to replace them with new ones - makes the install alot easier, plus eliminates intake air leaks.
 
Yep. I guess I should have mentioned I did hook the throttle cables up first, sprayed some lube on all the boots, the boots are not new, but they seem to be plenty squishy still and no cracks.

I guess I'll just have to give it another try tomorrow. Was just wondering if there was a trick, or a certain angle to go from, or if I have to hold my tongue just right. I got to where I was sweating and cursing more than gaining ground, so I gave up and walked away before I got out the hammer. :eek:
 
I have some rubber grease that I bought to help install my brake boots, so I smear a little of that around the carb boots. Then I tilt the carbs back a little and rock them into place. Sometimes getting one end in first is good - then lever the other end in. Really it shouldn't be too hard. Make sure the clamps have plenty of slack on them or it will get harder.

No tips on tongue position except not between teeth or it may come off.
 
Some folks have had success with using a ratchet-strap tie down to pull the carbs into the boots. They'll wrap the strap around the back of the carbs and route it around the front of the head, and then tighten the tie-down as you guide the carbs into the boots.

I've never done the above, just used some lube of some kind and worked the carbs back into the boots. However, my intake boots are soft and pliable so it makes it easier. Older, harder boots will make the job tougher.

In any case, if you're going with the 'just push them into the boots' method, be careful because you can push your bike right off the center-stand in the process. I didn't actually do that, but I did feel it rock slightly in that direction, so I knew to back off a little.
 
You gotta develop the "touch" first.
And by touch, I really mean chug a beer, get focused and muscle them in!
And like the other guy said, try NOT to knock the bike over in the process.
It's kind of like doing a dance around the bike.

I usually get so zoned into the task, I often stand up, and realize the bike is facing 30 Deg in another direction, lol.
 
Insert the carb rack above the boots, intake side down

Push down on the intake side, get the carbs 1/2 way in

Take a big screwdriver or scraper and use it to get the lip of the airbox boots on the carbs mouths

repeat, you should now be able to get the intake side mostly into the boots. wiggle the carbs around and make sure the lips of the intake boots are fully around the carbs (the carbs don't have to be 100% in)

Go to the back and work those boots up on the carbs mouths

Wiggle and slide everything into place
 
To elaborate a bit on what BigT said I put my carbs in from the right hand side of the bike and put them at about a 45 degree angle with the intake side pointing down. Then you just hook the top of the intake side of the carbs into the intake tube and rotate the carbs into place. You can use a screwdriver on the airbox tubes or if they're plyable just keep rotating and they'll pop in if you're lucky. A little lube could help but I've never found a need for it. Put the clamps around the airbox tubes after or you'll bend the crap out of them. Also I leave the cables and cable tower off until the carbs are in. I find the cable tower hits the frame and leaving it off until later just allows more room to wiggle the carbs. I don't know why everybody finds attaching the cables after so hard, I've got big hands and it takes about 2 minutes to install the cable tower and hook up all 3 cables after, much easier than trying to work with them in the way.
 
In my opinion, the 79GS1000L is the WORST one for getting the carbs back on. I decided the hassle of pods was better than dealing with the headache of the airbox, but this is a decision not for the faint of heart.

Try loosening the intermediate airbox connection, push all the way back, buy new intake rubbers, airbox rubbers, heat them up, silicone/wd40/white grease, loosen up the throttle/choke brackets if it helps (leave the wires attached), and hope for the best.

-Sean
 
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