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Carb Rebuild Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter gottaride
  • Start date Start date
G

gottaride

Guest
I recently found the time (way over due) to take apart my carb and clean it. The carb clean pdf came in very handy. However, I am now ready to rebuild and I want to make sure I get it right. I have noticed the compiling of carb specs and I was not sure which specs need to be taken into account during reassembly. Below is an example of yall's postings.

GS550L (77-79) the specs are for the VM's

idle r/min 1100-1200
carb mik vm22ss
id no 47110
bore size 22 (0.87)
float height 24.+/-1.0 (0.95 +/-0.04) Where is this measured from?
fuel level 4.0+/-1.0 (0.16 +/-0.04)
air screw 2.0 turns back
cut away 1.5
jet needle 5dl35-3 (the -3 3rd notch??)
pilot screw 1.0
pilot jet #15
pilot outlet 0.6
needle jet 0-6
by pass 1.0
main jet #80


The 3 specs in blue text make me believe that I must adjust certain pieces rather than just reverse order of breakdown and tighten everything down. Could someone maybe help me with an ellaberation or link with information on this process? Also, I didn't see '83 GS850G while searching the specs, did I miss it?

Finally, after I do complete the reassembly process and reinstall my carbs I just need to sync them, is that correct?

(If you can't tell, I have little experience on repairs but I am excited because this bike is my first step at getting that experience I want to have. This forum is such an awesome site for information and wanted to say thanks for all yall who do post useful info and answer questions like these.)
 
The needle you should not need to touch if you haven't removed the E clip on the groove. If you have, just put it back on in the third notch (if exhaust, airbox etc are stock).

The air screw you can see in the rebuild diary, it's 2 turns out from lightly seated but you may need a bit more or less (do by best idle method - with idle stop set as low as poss tweak each one in turn for best rpm resetting idle stop between each one).

Float height is measured from the Step in the float itself.

Do a search on some of my carb threads. People have been kind enough to put all this info in there, it's how I know it.

Dan :)
 
search basscliff website / posts for a great photo of how the float level is measured
"lightly seated" means that you screw the airscrew in as far as it goes, but do not apply any force when it stops rotating. then you undo it for a couple of turns
 
Hey howdy hey!

Hey howdy hey!

Mr. gottaride,

See these threads for float height measurement information:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=111255
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=75980

Carb spec thread is here, should cover just about all models:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=73723

Don't you have an 850? If so, did you get your tach cable leak fixed? Check Mr. bwringer's site (link below) for an excellent guide to replacing the tach cable seal and clearing up that leak.

Make sure your valve clearances have been checked and your air intake system is tight, no leaks, then adjust your carbs. And now, just in case I haven't sent it out to you yet, all will be revealed below in my "official" unofficial welcome. Welcome! :-D

Let it be known that on this day you are cordially and formally welcomed to the GSR Forum as a Junior Member in good standing with all the rights and privileges thereof. Further let it be known that your good standing can be improved with pictures! :grin:

Perhaps you've already seen these, but I like to remind all the new members. In addition to the carb rebuild series, I recommend visiting the garage section via the GSR Hompage and check out the Stator Papers. There's also a lot of great information in the Old Q&A section. I have some documentation on my little BikeCliff website to help get you familiar with doing routine maintenance tasks (note that it is 850G-specific but many tasks are common to all GS bikes). Other "user contributed" informational sites include those of Mr. bwringer, Mr. tfb and Mr. robertbarr.

And here are some quotes from one of our dear beloved gurus, Mr. bwringer, with ideas on basic maintenance needs (depending on initial condition), parts, and accessories.

***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer************
Carburetor maintenance:

Replace the intake boot o-rings, and possibly the intake boots. Here's the procedure:
http://bwringer.com/gs/intakeorings.html

Here's an overview of what happens with this particular problem:
http://cycleorings.com/intake.html

You'll also want to examine the boots between the carbs and the airbox. There's a good chance these are OK, but check them over.

And finally, if things still aren't exactly right, you'll want to order a set of o-rings for BS carbs from the GS owner's best friend, Robert Barr:
http://cycleorings.com

Once you receive these rare rings of delight, then you'll want to thoroughly clean and rebuild your carburetors. Here are step-by-step instructions that make this simple:
http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm
*************End Quote*************
**********Quoted from Mr. bwringer**********
Every GS850 has (or had) a set of well-known issues that MUST be addressed before you have a solid baseline for further troubleshooting.

It's a vintage bike, and it's quite common (as in, every single GS850 I have had contact with) that there are multiple problems that have crept up and slowly gotten worse over the years.

It's not like a newer vehicle, where there's generally one problem at a time.

These common issues are:

Intake O-rings (install NEW OEM or Viton only - common nitrile o-rings will quickly deteriorate from heat)

Intake Boots (install NEW -- these cannot be repaired)

Valve clearances (more important than most people think)

Carb/airbox boots

Airbox sealing

Air filter sealing

Petcock (install a NEW one)

On '79 models, install new points or Dyna electronic ignition (or at least verify that the old points are working correctly)

On all models, it's fairly common to have problems with the spark plug caps. These are $3 or $4 each, and often worth replacing if you're keeping the stock coils/wires.

Stock exhaust with NO leaks or holes -- good seals at the head and at the junctions underneath.
**********End Quote**********
***********Quoted from Mr. bwringer***************
http://denniskirk.com
Put in your bike model and see what they have.

I would definitely double and triple the recommendations to use Cycle Recycle II and Z1 Enterprises as much as possible. These guys are priceless resources. Z1 tends to have slightly better prices, CRC2 has a wider range of goodies available. If you're near Indy and can bring in an old part to match, CRC2 has a vast inventory of used parts.

http://oldbikebarn.com seems to be slowly regaining a decent reputation, but it's still caveat emptor. They don't have anything you can't get elsewhere at a better price anyway.

OEM Parts/Online Fiches:

http://www.babbittsonline.com/
Decent parts prices. Spendy shipping. Don't give you part numbers at all. Useful cross-reference if you obtain a part number elsewhere. Efficient service.

http://bikebandit.com
Fastest. Middlin' prices. Uses their own parts numbering system to obfuscate price comparisons -- can be very confusing for large orders. Cheapest shipping, so total cost usually isn't too bad.

http://flatoutmotorcycles.com
Slow. Cheapest parts prices, crazy shipping costs. Don't expect progress updates or much communication. Real Suzuki part numbers.

http://alpha-sports.com
Exorbitant parts prices. Different type of fiche interface that's quite useful at times, especially with superceded part numbers. Real parts numbers. Shipping cost and speed unknown due to insane, unholy pricing.

Stainless Bolts, Viton o-rings, metric taps, dies, assorted hard-to-find supplies and materials, etc.:
http://mcmaster.com
Fast, cheap shipping, good prices. No order minimum, but many items like bolts come in packs of 25 or 50. Excellent resource.

http://motorcycleseatcovers.com
Great quality, perfect fit (on original seat foam), and available for pretty much every bike ever made. Avoid the textured vinyl -- it's perforated.

http://newenough.com
You DO have riding gear, don't you? Great clearances, always outstanding prices and impeccable service.
***************End Quote**********************

Here are a few extra links:

Cycle-Re-Cycle Part 2
http://crc2onlinecatalog.com/

The ever popular Z1 Enterprises
http://www.z1enterprises.com

The Rice Paddy (salvage/used)
http://www.ricepaddymotorcycles.com

Ron Ayers Motorsports
http://www.ronayers.com


Lots of info/pictures here:
http://www.suzukicycles.org

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed of your progress. There's lots of good folk with good experience here.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
(The unofficial GSR greeter)
walmart_greeter2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks again for your help. i do need to fix a couple of those things mentioned so I really appreciate the posts/links. I will be utilizing all the advice. Progress is slow but I am happy its progress. All these guides are perfect for someone like me.
 
Numbers and pictures

Numbers and pictures

Mr. gottaride,

Here are the numbers from my 850 Suzuki Shop manual:

Carburetor type = Mikuni BS32SS
Bore Size = 32 (1.26)
I.D. No. = 45110
Idle rpm = 1050 +/- 100rpm
Fuel Level = 5.0 +/- 0.5 (0.20 +/- 0.02)
Float Height = 22.4 +/- 1.0 (0.88 +/- 0.04)
Main Jet = #115
Main Air Jet = 1.7
Jet Needle = 5D50
Needle Jet = X-5
Pilot Jet = #40
Bypass = 1.0, 0.8, 0.8
Pilot Outlet = 0.7
Valve Seat = 2.0
Starter Jet = #32.5
Pilot Screw = Preset (actually, these can be adjusted - start with about 2 turns out from lightly seated)
Throttle cable play = 0.5-1.0 (0.02-0.04)

And here are a couple of helpful pictures, courtesy of Mr. Steve, showing us how to measure float height.

IMG_2162.jpg


IMG_2161.jpg


Thanks again for the pictures Mr. Steve.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
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