Why would anyone take their classic bike to the dealer with a
****can attitude of rejection and not working on bikes 10-15
years old ?? If they do not want to service your needs, you
walk and do it yourself. Why spend good money ??
With this excellent website and technical personnel of the highest
caluber, you don't need the dealer. Most everyone on this GS
website are technical savvy and are do-it-yourselfers....and they
are there for YOU !!
Good people offering you the best to support your classic bike.
Just read this subject column under technical info and you will
gain so much knowledge you will understand and appeciate your
machine more. I believe everyone should be self-reliant on repairing
their own machine. Who is going to service your needs when you
are alone on a ride in the country and dead in the water ?? Surely
not your neighborhood Suzuki dealer !!
Get to know your machine, and have that tinkerer and engineer
inside of you flourish. Don't be afraid to open this and that to gain
insight on how and why your particular machine reacts the way it
does. I believe in hands-on and reading from the factory manual
and tearing into it to gain insight of how it was constructed with
the mindset of the design engineers. This will give you the backbone
of their thinking - "what the hell were they thinking" or "ingenious
design" !! I've seen total crap to enginuity, and you wonder who
approved of this garbage to begin with ??
I also believe in innovation, with great design and simplicity in mind.
Once you understand the basics in electricity and mechanical motion,
all this maintenance falls into place. You don't need to pay anyone,
you have a great mind of your own. Just keep asking and you shall
receive what you are looking for.
The carb synchronization is very easy. Normally there is a fixed throttle
body that is used as a reference......usually #3. This is fixed and non-adjustible. It is used as a reference so #1,#2, and #4 are matched with it. On the GS1100s, the outer carbs #1 and #4 are slightly higher in vacuum than the #2 and #3 inners. (rated in inches of Mercury).
With all of the fittings in-place, and all of the hoses attached, you
start the bike, and adjust the carbs via the mechanical screws on
each throttle body (wit reference to #3) so that the outer carb
vacuum is higher than the inner carb vacuum by 1 bar or slightly less inches of Mercury. Once you have it dialed-in at idle, you rev it in
higher RPMs to see if they are the same at 1000-1500 rpms. It shoud
be the same or close to it. Have a fan blow against the engine so
it can cool while you do your carb synch.
As a reference, turn your air/fuel mixture screw clockwise (CW) until
it seats, then back counterslockwise (CCW) 1.5 turns. Depending on
your model, it could be 2 turns. It is better to run rich than lean. An
exhaust analyzer would be great if everybody had one. You can read
your plugs by removing them, cleaning them, and to adjust according.
You are seeking a nice tan color on the electrodes for a clean thorough combustion.
If you've never rebuilt carburetors, I would recommend doing so. It is
a great learning experience. I would attribute 90% of all performance
issues are related to the carbs. That is my personal belief as some
could tell you otherwise. A simple design yet practical. The electronics
rarely goes out, but if it does, it is usually the RR. This is a Suzuki design flaw in the rectification and voltage regulation of AC to DC. That is why there are many aftermarket RRs and pulse generator replacements.
Anyways, goodluck to you. You'll be in good hands here with the many
great GS Brothers by your side.
KT :-D\\

/
burn see black carbon....too rich, or
nd