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Carbs installed, more issues...

  • Thread starter Thread starter 46hand
  • Start date Start date
4

46hand

Guest
After a long long wait, I have finally been able to start up my bike. Unfortunately, I invested in an air-gauge style (Emgo) manometer, so that is what I am dealing with. However, I believe the carbs are, more or less, successfully synchronized.

The issues I now face now are a light smoke rising from the cam cover. Not sure about the origin though. Doesn't smell like gas or oil (at least strongly like them). I did the valve adjustment, and I think there may have been some oil splatter from trying to depress the tappets. Alternatively, perhaps it is from the new Real gaskets warming up to the new operation? I ran the bike for a solid 10 min after wardmup..

The second issue is revving above 2k (thought I don't trust my aftermarket tach...). I have not taken her out on the road just yet, but she cuts power at around 2k rpm/half throttle. Yes, I looked here-
http://esvc000237.wic050u.server-web.com/mikunicarb.htm

I did some very minor damage to the pilot jet on #2 (and left it) during the rebuild, but that isn't even the same throttle band as the pilot jet affects.

I would just like to mention how incredible an effect the valve adjustment and carb rebuild had on how the machine runs! I will testify to the benefits of doing this maintenance! Despite it not running "perfectly", she is so incredibly smooth and inviting... Hopefully taking her out tomorrow, hopefully addressing the issues tomorrow too!
 
46hand said:
After a long long wait, I have finally been able to start up my bike. Unfortunately, I invested in an air-gauge style (Emgo) manometer, so that is what I am dealing with. However, I believe the carbs are, more or less, successfully synchronized.

The issues I now face now are a light smoke rising from the cam cover. Not sure about the origin though. Doesn't smell like gas or oil (at least strongly like them). I did the valve adjustment, and I think there may have been some oil splatter from trying to depress the tappets. Alternatively, perhaps it is from the new Real gaskets warming up to the new operation? I ran the bike for a solid 10 min after wardmup..

The second issue is revving above 2k (thought I don't trust my aftermarket tach...). I have not taken her out on the road just yet, but she cuts power at around 2k rpm/half throttle. Yes, I looked here-
http://esvc000237.wic050u.server-web.com/mikunicarb.htm

I did some very minor damage to the pilot jet on #2 (and left it) during the rebuild, but that isn't even the same throttle band as the pilot jet affects.

I would just like to mention how incredible an effect the valve adjustment and carb rebuild had on how the machine runs! I will testify to the benefits of doing this maintenance! Despite it not running "perfectly", she is so incredibly smooth and inviting... Hopefully taking her out tomorrow, hopefully addressing the issues tomorrow too!
Click to expand...

If you can read the Emgo sync gauge accurately and precisely, it should suffice. Absolute values aren't nearly as important as making sure the carbs are all opening at the exact same time and rate, which is all a sync really is for.

Light smoke rising off engine components after re-assembly, or any sort of major work is pretty normal, in my experience.. If it doesn't burn off in ten minutes or so, I'd look for an oil leak. Usually it's just residual oil from your hands while you were wrenching, and possibly residue from any cleaners if you happened to do any engine cleaning while the carbs were off. (good idea, since you can easily access the cam chain tensioner, which is usually a good place for leaks. Should rebuild the cam chain tensioner while you have the carbs off as well, if you haven't already. Two or three seals in there that are notorious for going bad and causing phantom oil leaks.

As for not revving past 2k, what exactly have you done as far as setup? I'm in the process of getting underway in tuning the carbs on my 1100EZ, and all I've done so far is set the mixture screws, and she'll rev up to 9k or so (according to the stock tach, that is), no problem whatsoever, with no load at least. Only thing I did was dip the carbs, set them back to stock settings, and then reset then to the settings I need for my pods and pipe. Also did a bench sync, which is pretty important to get it to run well enough to start tuning. Also, make sure your petcock and the rest of your fuel system is up to snuff. Really easy to clean the crap outta your carbs, only to have a small flake of rust from your tank clog something vital. Sometimes it takes several cleanings to really get them clean, as well. Double check float levels as well, very important to get them right!
 
Nessism said:
Is the airbox installed?
Click to expand...
No. I will feel dumb (but relieved) if this is the cause. The reason they are not is that the old airbox hoses are, well, hosed... The new ones are set for delivery Tuesday (partshark.com is very slow to ship)but I got impatient. I tried to reinstall the airbox using the old hoses but became very frustrated, as the old hoses are too hardened to seat on the carb body.
 
Tuttleface said:
If you can read the Emgo sync gauge accurately and precisely, it should suffice. Absolute values aren't nearly as important as making sure the carbs are all opening at the exact same time and rate, which is all a sync really is for.
Click to expand...
Yeah, the dials seem to indicate that everything is tuned up, but reading the scale says there is an intake leak/bad timing. Intuitively, I am inclined to think that the carbs are tuned, and the manometer is not a good fit for my machine.
Light smoke rising off engine components after re-assembly, or any sort of major work is pretty normal, in my experience.. If it doesn't burn off in ten minutes or so, I'd look for an oil leak. Usually it's just residual oil from your hands while you were wrenching, and possibly residue from any cleaners if you happened to do any engine cleaning while the carbs were off. (good idea, since you can easily access the cam chain tensioner, which is usually a good place for leaks. Should rebuild the cam chain tensioner while you have the carbs off as well, if you haven't already. Two or three seals in there that are notorious for going bad and causing phantom oil leaks.
Click to expand...
The smoke persisted for over ten minutes, to be sure, and definitely originates from underneath the cam cover. Plenty of miniscule splatters of oil went about as I was depressing the tappets. I didn't rebuild the cam chain tensioner, but if the smoke continues I will.I really should invest in a torque wrench, but I've found I have a pretty good feel for torque when compared to actual torqued values. My budget for this rebuild was left in the dust long ago...
As for not revving past 2k, what exactly have you done as far as setup? I'm in the process of getting underway in tuning the carbs on my 1100EZ, and all I've done so far is set the mixture screws, and she'll rev up to 9k or so (according to the stock tach, that is), no problem whatsoever, with no load at least. Only thing I did was dip the carbs, set them back to stock settings, and then reset then to the settings I need for my pods and pipe. Also did a bench sync, which is pretty important to get it to run well enough to start tuning. Also, make sure your petcock and the rest of your fuel system is up to snuff. Really easy to clean the crap outta your carbs, only to have a small flake of rust from your tank clog something vital. Sometimes it takes several cleanings to really get them clean, as well. Double check float levels as well, very important to get them right!
Click to expand...
I did the bench sync according to http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/images/carb_sync_notes.html, and was met with all sorts of success without making any other adjustment. Except for the "phantom governor", that is.
In place of rebuilding the petcock/deep cleaning the tank, I replaced the inline (aftermarket) fuel filter and dumped out the old gasoline, replacing it with fresh stuff. I plan on refurbishing the tank down the road, as it has gas stains after a third rate paint job. I also plan on rebuilding the petcock at that time.
I did not mess with the float levels, as I lack a precise tool to measure them, and I did not want to potentially cause bigger problems by attempting to reset them.
 
46hand said:
No. I will feel dumb (but relieved) if this is the cause. The reason they are not is that the old airbox hoses are, well, hosed... The new ones are set for delivery Tuesday (partshark.com is very slow to ship)but I got impatient. I tried to reinstall the airbox using the old hoses but became very frustrated, as the old hoses are too hardened to seat on the carb body.
Click to expand...

Please read this before you get even more frustrated... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=171846
 
So, (please correct me if I'm wrong), you're basically saying that it is futile to try to get it running right without the airbox mounted and properly sealed (and sealed it is, as soon as I get the new hoses).

I have definitely read that post in the past, though I become impatient from time to time...
 
Haha "drastically lean". How did I miss that? Will update Tuesday.

Thanks Ed :)
 
Hi,

46hand said:
...I ran the bike for a solid 10 min after wardmup...

...I have not taken her out on the road just yet...
Click to expand...

As a reminder, it's not a good idea to let these air-cooled engines sit still and run for any length of time. They will get too hot, cook the oil, and hurt things. I always put an electric fan or two in front of my engine when I am performing a vacuum sync or setting the idle mixture screws.

carbsync-2fans.jpg


Yes, get the air intake system fully assembled without leaks before seriously attempting to make the final adjustments to the idle mixture screws, vacuum synchronization, etc. ;)


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
You think she is running all kinds of well now, except for thr the 2k stumble?
Hahahahaha, I would love to be a fly on the wall to see your face on Tuesday, when you have the airbox in and all buttoned up tight.
It is going to be a different bike all together.
Yes, you can do nothing further until that airbox is in, then you will see totally different readings on your manometer and it will actually work.
Keep us in the loop on Wednesday.
 
*update*

*update*

UPS finally delivered the hoses today (one day late). I am no longer trying to run her "drastically lean", and everything seems to be all lined up (carb/fuel wise).
Side notes- any tricks for getting the (carb/airbox) hoses on next time I try? That was fun... Also, on the petcock, does the circle on the dial indicate the position it is in, or is it the "tail" of the arrow? With the circle over "Fuel" she ran dry around when she warmed up. I hit prime and watched the fuel flow through the inline filter. The fuel continued to flow while "Res" had the circle over it. I may be due for a petcock rebuild...
Thanks again for your help, and if you want to continue to help this noob out head on over to the Electrical/Ignition forum!

You guys rock.
 
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