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coils resistance???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Craig54
  • Start date Start date
C

Craig54

Guest
when checking the coils and i fing the resistance is between 30 and 35 ohms.
when i plug the leeds in i get 60-70 ohms
if i trim the ends off i am back to 30-35 ohms but as soon as i put the nkg black ends on i am back to 60-70 again
is this right

craig
 
Your caps are resistive, so it makes sense that it would change. IDK the exact numbers you should expect though.
 
generally, the resistance on the output side of the coil should be around 15 K~25 K ohms. the caps are usually 8K alone each by them selves so add approx. 16K more. The wires resistance are dependant of who made them. so seeing almost 50K resistance is near normal.

Dyna wires have resistance in them and resistor caps and resistor style plugs are not necessary. you only need 1 type of resistance to clean up the spark don't double or triple the resistance you'll have trouble cold starting and at hi rev situations.


a snappy hot blue spark is more important than the exact readings.

70K ohms seems a little high to me. but are you having a problem?
 
That says you're getting 30-35k ohms resistance from your plug caps, and that's too much. Have you checked the plug caps separately?
 
Craig54 said:
when checking the coils and i fing the resistance is between 30 and 35 ohms.
when i plug the leeds in i get 60-70 ohms
if i trim the ends off i am back to 30-35 ohms but as soon as i put the nkg black ends on i am back to 60-70 again
is this right

craig
Click to expand...
I am wondering if that is really the reading or if it is on the x1000 scale. :-k

Those would be normal readings on the x1000 scale, but are far too low if they are on the x1 scale.
shrug2.gif


.
 
coils resistance???

trippivot said:
generally, the resistance on the output side of the coil should be around 15 K~25 K ohms. the caps are usually 8K alone each by them selves so add approx. 16K more. The wires resistance are dependant of who made them. so seeing almost 50K resistance is near normal.

Dyna wires have resistance in them and resistor caps and resistor style plugs are not necessary. you only need 1 type of resistance to clean up the spark don't double or triple the resistance you'll have trouble cold starting and at hi rev situations.


a snappy hot blue spark is more important than the exact readings.

70K ohms seems a little high to me. but are you having a problem?
Click to expand...

Interesting........ i got rid of the resistive caps and just put normal ends on the 8 ohm leeds. i am now reading 28 -30 ohms. always had trouble starting so maybe that has something to do with it.
still havent figured out whats going on with my spark.... have another go tomorrow....... Just got a new set of final transistors for the ignitor $11 delivered so i will chuck them in and see if thats the problem.
Craig
 
I'm a little confused why you are not using the K symbol with your posted readings.

The K means thousand in reference to a thousand ohms.

in analog meter scale you want ohm X 1000 or ohm X 1K leads connected on the spark plug side plug wire end to spark plug wire end - no resistor caps .
and when you said you have 8 ohm wires did you mean 8mm diameter silicone wires?

anyway like I said, blue and snappy spark exactly on the 1-4 "F" mark and the 2-3 "F" mark means more than all the scientific measurements.
 
coils resistance

coils resistance

trippivot said:
I'm a little confused why you are not using the K symbol with your posted readings.

The K means thousand in reference to a thousand ohms.

in analog meter scale you want ohm X 1000 or ohm X 1K leads connected on the spark plug side plug wire end to spark plug wire end - no resistor caps .
and when you said you have 8 ohm wires did you mean 8mm diameter silicone wires?

anyway like I said, blue and snappy spark exactly on the 1-4 "F" mark and the 2-3 "F" mark means more than all the scientific measurements.
Click to expand...

yep your right they are 8mm silicon wires
the answer to you question is i dont know what i am doing i am just doing it
i rigged up the 1.5v battery and tested the ignitor as in the instructions and found i could only get the right hand coil to fire.
every thing else looks ok????
maybe only one of the transistors are gone????
ingitor gets hot quite quickly so theres something wrong somewhere??
 
I have a similar issue where my left coil is barely sparking at all and the igniter is suspect. Are you sure there's no spark or is it really really weak like mine?
 
I did the 1.5v battery test on the ignitor and checked the voltage being delivered to the coil
the left side reads 12v without the battery conected and .5v when conected
the right side read does the opposite....does this sound right???
 
If only the right coil is firing, you need to swap the coils. Put the left coil on the right and the right coil on the left. If it follows the coil, the coil is faulty. If it stays on the right, it is the ignitor.
The ignitor getting hot usually means a short. You just need to figure out where the short is located.
 
coils resistance???

koolaid_kid said:
If only the right coil is firing, you need to swap the coils. Put the left coil on the right and the right coil on the left. If it follows the coil, the coil is faulty. If it stays on the right, it is the ignitor.
The ignitor getting hot usually means a short. You just need to figure out where the short is located.
Click to expand...

ignitor got hot with left coil pluged in but not when just the right one was plugged in ...mmmm
swapped the wires over and the right coil fires using the 1.5v battery test on the left coil feed wires
so the wires and the ignitor are ok
looks like dead coil...
thanks
off to evil bay
 
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