• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Damaged inlet vent on air box? What to do? Replace?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockhammer
  • Start date Start date
R

rockhammer

Guest
Hello riders. So I am taking apart the bike to install new vac boot rings and re seal air box when I found this damage to the air box inlet vent. Also the hose coming out of the box for drainage, I believe, is pretty work cracking, still holding up but I should replace it. The hose is a custom hose it appears. Question what would you do to this vent try and repair with patch some how or find replacement? Here are some pics.
View attachment 19687
 
That looks like the rubber "periscope". I took mine off and carefully super glued the torn rubber back together. Then when i reinserted it, a dab of Ultra Black RTV was applied to the lip that sits against the box.
 
That looks like the rubber "periscope". I took mine off and carefully super glued the torn rubber back together. Then when i reinserted it, a dab of Ultra Black RTV was applied to the lip that sits against the box.

I guess I can try and glue it up. See what happens.
 
Hi,

Sure, for the plastic parts use something to fill the cracks and make it air-tight. That is the "snorkel" on the back of the airbox. For the sides you can use press-on weatherstripping. Check out these guides...

Airbox Sealing
(by Mr. Roostabunny)
[SIZE=-1](CLICK HERE to download as PDF)[/SIZE]

Air Intake Repair: Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
What it does is make the intake above the swing arm and lower edge of the plastic inner fender so the airbox isnt sucking in road slop off the tire. If you dont ride in the rain or on mud roads EVER then its no big deal.
 
I used some hot glue and super glue also. Now I am getting at the vac boots and they are a b++ch to get off. They wont budge. I have an air ratchet. I used it for my car is this ok to use on a bike also? I would need to buy some kind of adapter to attach a fillips head to it.
 
I used some hot glue and super glue also. Now I am getting at the vac boots and they are a b++ch to get off. They wont budge. I have an air ratchet. I used it for my car is this ok to use on a bike also? I would need to buy some kind of adapter to attach a fillips head to it.

I presume you're talking carb boots. If that's the case then..........

Take your time!........... and think this through.
Take some PB Blaster and spray those screws and let it sit.
Get yourself a good Impact Screwdriver with the right bits. You may have to remove some hardware and parts and or use extensions so that you can smack it smartly.
If you get lucky enough to break free and remove one screw per boot, you can usually loosen the other by turning the boot in the direction the screw loosens.
One thing you don't want to do is break the head off a screw, so....
last resorts include, using needle nose vice grips, dremeling a slot in the head to fit a regular screwdriver in, or my favorite, using a wood chisel on the side of screw and hitting the chisel so that it turns the screw.
 
Like was said..use the hand held impact. Take the end off and get as many extentions as you can and put on the impact handle. Then use the tip holder and the BIG phillips bit.

Go down thru the frame just over the edge of the battery box so you can get a solid smack on the impact driver. Following me here on the pathway for the extentions???
 
Last edited:
Im following you chuck. I need to buy one of those tools though first. I have never used one I will look it up on you tube. For now I sealed up the air box real good just like the tutorial here. I put her back together because I need to order tool. Once think however I did get the carbs out and took a clamp off the boots they are still very pliable. The bike has 13k miles on it now. I know it is still old but they still had flexibility to them. I will need to order the tool. I will just replace the entire boot next time and not just the ring I suppose. I am not sure if sealing the box up real well will help with it running rich. One thing I found interesting. The blue is heaviest on pipe 4 that was the side with no stripping. Initially when I sealed the box I only did the one side I did not remove the box completely. This time I removed the box and the other side had no seal and the new seal I placed on the filter did not seat well because there were remnants of old weather stripping in there. So the side with all the bluing had the air leaks. What do you think? I guess there is no way for me to test if I fixed the problem or not.
 
Back
Top