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Do I have big trouble??

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Changed the oil in my 1100GZ and noticed a 1/2" long curly-que metal chip stuck to the magnetic drain plug!! There were also a few tiny metallic chips stuck there as well.

I haven't noticed any funky noises or funny running.

My clutch slips when cold under hard throttle (I have some new springs but haven't gotten around to installing them). Could that be the cause of this mystery metal??

Am I in trouble or what?

Thanks,

mike
 
Starter clutches are known to come apart. Cafe Kid had this problem on his 1100G. Post some photos of the metal bits so we can have a look at them.
 
I saved the long curly chip, the other bits were very small, kinda black, & I didn't save 'em.

I can post a pic of the curly one, but it looks like the chip you you get when drilling a hole.
 
Start by checking adjustment of the clutch lever, to be certain that it's fully engaged.
 
Sounds like the drain plug might be a +1 in size? The curly metal piece could be an indication of earlier stripping in the drain plug hole like I experienced on my '80 850.
 
Sounds like a random piece of swarf to me... maybe left over from manufacture finally flushed? No funny noises then likely no problem. Check your oil carefully next time too I would "monitor " it. :)

If it was stuck to the magnetic plug it;s unlikely to be part of the sump pan unless you have a helicoil fitted...

Dan :)
 
salty_monk said:
Sounds like a random piece of swarf to me... maybe left over from manufacture finally flushed? No funny noises then likely no problem. Check your oil carefully next time too I would "monitor " it. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, That's the kind of feedback I wanted to hear!!

Although I don't know exactly what "swarf" is, I'm sure it's related to "shmegula", another common contaminant ;).

And no, no helicol insert. I'll definately keep a close eye on it...

Mike
 
magnetic metal pieces come from only a couple places inside the engine.

behind the starter clutch . transmission off of the crank behind the clutch basket..

did you remove the oil filter and cut it open to see if fragments have circulated thru the pump and possibly up to the head???



curly que might mean spinning metal and a stationary contact point. bad thing most places where steel is spinning it has aluminum beside it.

I'd drop the pan, open the clutch box, take the stator and starter assy off, and peek in the cam area-look in there for more clues...... better safe than sorry with ferrous metal floating in what is supposed to be a filtered environment.
 
Hadn't consodered cutting open the filter for a look-around; good idea, I can fish it out of the trash & do just that...

The clutch has been slipping for a little while now, I haven't opened it up to look yet... I guess that's my next step - winter project I suppose. I don't really want to drop the pan if I can help it.

Thanks for the input guys, i appreciate it.

mike
 
hikermikem said:
Hadn't consodered cutting open the filter for a look-around; good idea, I can fish it out of the trash & do just that...

The clutch has been slipping for a little while now, I haven't opened it up to look yet... I guess that's my next step - winter project I suppose. I don't really want to drop the pan if I can help it.

Thanks for the input guys, i appreciate it.

mike
Click to expand...

Clutch springs is a Saturday morning project, even for me. You won't need all winter.
 
That is likely a piece of your start clutch springs...you get that nasty CLACK!!! noise ever when you start it cold? If so, your starter clutch is likely on its way out. Had the same curley que pieces show up on my drain plug, and thats exactly what it was ( i was already experiencing starter clutch issues, and was prepared to change it out when i assured thats in fact what it was) If you have any starter clutch issues, I would recommend you get in there and change it out, as it will eventually cough up more metal bits. Fortunately, it seems that they go straight to the sump and dont go floating around in bad places, but one can never trust things like that to chance IMO...
 
TheCafeKid said:
That is likely a piece of your start clutch springs...you get that nasty CLACK!!! noise ever when you start it cold? If so, your starter clutch is likely on its way out. Had the same curley que pieces show up on my drain plug, and thats exactly what it was ( i was already experiencing starter clutch issues, and was prepared to change it out when i assured thats in fact what it was) If you have any starter clutch issues, I would recommend you get in there and change it out, as it will eventually cough up more metal bits. Fortunately, it seems that they go straight to the sump and dont go floating around in bad places, but one can never trust things like that to chance IMO...
Click to expand...

OK, not to be stupid, but I'm not a real mechanic...
So for calrification, the starter clutch is the clutch that engages/disengages the starter motor gear??

Not to be confused with the wet clutch that engages/disengages the transmission gears?

​
Is that right? I know little about either - bit i guess I'm about to get smarter!! Is the starter clutch hard to replace/fix??

I was afraid I would run out of stuff to do, guess i was saved!!

thanks,

mike


​
 
hikermikem said:
OK, not to be stupid, but I'm not a real mechanic...
So for calrification, the starter clutch is the clutch that engages/disengages the starter motor gear??

Not to be confused with the wet clutch that engages/disengages the transmission gears?

​
Is that right? I know little about either - bit i guess I'm about to get smarter!! Is the starter clutch hard to replace/fix??

I was afraid I would run out of stuff to do, guess i was saved!!

thanks,

mike
Click to expand...

YES ! the starter clutch is on SERIOUS PITA to replace, the reason is getting your rotor off without doing any damage to the magnets is difficult especially if the PO has put red thread lock sealant on the shaft.

Yes it can and has been done by those of us who dared to defy Murphy's law ( and lost-lol , i did manage to get it done and the bike runs great now) but you will need a slide hammer and the correct adapter and a 25 pound weight. ( my arms and the lack of use for two days can attest to NOT using the stock tools 2lb weight ). Unless there is no sealant ont the shaft in which case a simple puller will work.

Seriously consider having a mechanic do this for you because it is expensive and time consuming if that rotor is difficult to get out.

I just did mine and would not recomend this to those less inclined mechanicly. Not to discourage you but it is that bad. Unless you need a good challenge.
 
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Its not THAT difficult, provided you have the propper TOOL. With your bike, we can, probably safely, assume that the starter clutch has NEVER been replaced. Therefore, no red threadlock (which I will agree is a pain in the ass) Again, you will need the right tool, and I DID NOT, and we ended up breaking the mags in the rotor. No big deal, as I was replacing it with the new one i had anyway, but it would have been nice to have not broken it. The proper tool is called, oddly enough, a rotor puller! Yay! Can be had at Z1 or various places. But, MIND YOU, you will need the correct one. YOUR bike has the rotor threaded on the OUTSIDE of the hub, youll need the corrosponding puller, as Suzuki used two different designs for a lil while there..

BTW, dont freak out thinking youre going to have to buy some expensive ass specialty tool, i think they run 20 bucks at most..
 
where is the pic? could be a failed attempt to helicoil the drain plug hole
 
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